Does time affect unused Monokote? I have several partial and 2 full rolls that I picked up at a yard sale a couple of years ago. I really have no idea how old any of it is. Are there any problems that I might expect (with the adhesive or the shrink rate, etc.) if I try to use it? I do plan to test it on some scrap wood before using on either of the planes that I have to cover this winter. Since I am working on a new biuld and a complete recover, color shift is not a concern.

Thanks for any input,

Chuck

I’ve used very old MonoKote and it works fine.

I've never had any problems with older Monokote. It still works great even after many years.

Ken

The really old Super Monokote was much better than what they are selling now. More flexible, a tad more elasticity while heated and a very aggressive glue compared to the last rolls I used. I guess the EPA or the bean counter got to them after a while and they had to change. And don't try to tell me there is no difference. I know better.


Ed Cregger

Ed, got to agree with you. I pulled out a roll the other day, one with the brown lable, and used it to recover a plane. The color was s little different, and it was white, but the covering seemed to go on a lot easier, especially around the corners.

Don

They changed something 8 or 10 years ago and it turned into A crap shoot if the stuff was going to shrink or not. Sometimes it works great and sometimes it just doesn't work. I just used some 12 year old black and it was wonderful to work with. I have had some old stuff crack the pigment/glue off as I unrolled it but I think it was more A storage thing then age.

As I said I really don't know how old it is, or how it was stored. I think I will test it out first. I've never used Monokote before, only Ultracote, so I can't make a comparison. If it doesn't work, I think I gave the lady 3.00 for the box, so I won't lose any sleep over it anyway.

On a related point, how well do Monokote and Ultracote work together, Can I use them both on the same part of the plane without issues?

Thanks again,

Chuck

Once you iron down Monokote, you can't heat it and remove it. Ultracote and Oracover (same thing) is a bit easier to work with in this manner.

There is a difference between how fuel affects the edges of both coverings, but I forget which is which. One of them has to be sealed in order to prevent fuel creep, like Econokote. I use Econokote on models powered with gas engines and electric, if I'm looking for straight colors and not fancy stuff.

For a long time, Oracover (the original name in the USA and imported from Germany by Hobby Lobby Int.) had funky looking, washed out, pastel looking colors. If you wanted something with a bit of visual bite, you had to go with Super Monokote (now known as Monokote). However, things changed a while back and the Ultracote/Oracover folks introduced some pretty snazzy colors. Still, they don't have the visual impact of Monokote, but they are usable.

Oracover/Ultracote is much easier to apply than Monokote. With Monokote, you have to keep in mind that the iron has to be 350 degrees Fahrenheit or the material won't shrink properly. It applies at a considerably higher temperature than Ultracote/Oracover.


Ed Cregger

One other difference, amonia will attack the adheasive on Monokote. That is why it is used for trim work, even over UltraKote. THe Windex method. That's the good news, the bad news is the Windex or other cleaners with amonia in them, used for end of day cleanup will start the Monokote pealing back at the edges.

Don

Then what would be a good cleaner for the Monokote? I am using Windex now.

I use windshield washing fluid in an old Windex bottle. I added about 6 drops of Ivory liquid and a cap full of rubbing alcohol. Works as good as anything else I've used.

Hogflyer

I got my best results using hardware store solvent, which turned out to be about all methanol. Who knows what the rest of it was.

Problem is, methanol is absorbed directly through the skin and heads straight toward the liver. I did a number on my liver in the early eighties as I was continually getting methanol on my hands. That was a close call.

Ammonia, besides attacking the glue, will also make Monokote haze a milky white after a while.


Ed Cregger

I use the same. Except that I use Dawn Dishwashing liquid. It seems to do a great job of cutting through the grease and oil on the plane.

Ken

If you ever get into a patch of poison ivy while searching for a plane, take a shower with Dawn dishwashing soap. It cuts the oil that is in poison ivy and you won't get infected by it.
I have lots of poison Ivy in my back yard and really get sprayed when I weed wack it.
I know, not subject related but could help someone.

Thanks, Sebo. That's good to know.


Ed Cregger

Hi Fellows: I pulled out a left over roll of Oracover silver a while back, and it smelled funny, but went ahead and started covering a wing on a .25 size A-7 hang up model. Well, it did not want to stick down very well, and in the balsa sheeted areas, I got a lot of bubbles even though the iron was not at the shrinking temp. After fighting the bottom half of a wing, I began using up some silver Monocote, and had no more problems. I am just guessing that there is a time line on the glue chemicals, and yes, this Oracover was really old stuff. If when sniffing an old roll, if there is no pugent smell to it, it may be ok to purchase, and use. I just chucked the rest of my old Oracover roll.

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You could have purchased a can of Balsa Rite and brushed it on the wood surfaces. Then applied the old roll of covering. Should work. With covering so expensive, the balsa rite is a good investment. It is fuel proof and can be used in fuel tank and firewall areas too. I have some old Monokote that still has the price on it.....$6.00 a roll. Stuff is over 30 years old. I'm still using it.
Ron

I have mixed and matched between Ultra and Mono A number of times without any problems. Mono uses more heat so ultra irons over mono very well but ammonia does actavate the glue/pigment of the mono for trim. When it dries I go over the edges with my trim iron and that really holds it down. About 95% of the time I only use Ultra for my own planes, I really don't like Mono even A little but I do use it for trim sometimes. That being said I have to say that Ultra Silver sucks!! I don't know why?? Mono silvers just work better??? See, I'm open minded but not to the point my braines dribble out. Not too much anyway!