This is my second year in R/c. Now want to build something on my own. This glue thing is a little confusing. need to find some printed info on what glues/ epoxies to use when/where.
any help thanks.

I used to use CA's for my building but about 9 years ago I switched to Elmer's Carpenter's Glue, and I won't go back to the CA's. I feel that my building has improved since I've switched because I have more time to get a joint positioned correctly before the glue sets and you don't get those hard knots in the wood that are impossible to sand. Also I didn't like the reaction my body has to the CA fumes. Many call it a CA allergy, but after I've talked to a few doctors and a couple of chemists I find that it's not an allergy but a simple chemical reaction in your body. The CA fumes react with the moisture in your nose, throat, and lungs to produce some very bad reactions. Over time these reactions can become worse with repeated exposure. I've seen people that can hardly breath for 3 days after using it. I wanted to avoid that from happening before it got to that point. So..... here's what I use for my building.
[ul][*] Elmer's Carpenter's Glue - This is my main adhesive. I use it for the majority of building with balsa and wood to wood contact. For ply's and harder woods I will use epoxy[*] 5 minute epoxy - I do have this around but I very rarerly use it. I will usually use 30 minute, but I have the 5 minute around for quick uses that aren't in critical areas of the plane.[*] 30 minute epoxy - I use this for critical stress areas on the plane such as wing joints, firewall attachments, horizontal and vertical stabilizer, securing hinge points, and other high stress critical areas.[*] CA's - Yes, I know I said I didn't use these but that's not entirely true. I still use them for a couple of things. I keep thin CA around for hardening threads cut into wood for such things as wing bolts. I may also use it to help hold large constructions together while the Elmer's sets. I will put a couple of small drops on the wood to hold it all together while the wood glue dries. I also do reviews for RCU and I use the proper thickness CA adhesive that is called for in the instructions. I do this because we try to do review planes as the instructions call for. I do have medium and thick CA around but don't use them much. Especially the thick, too many people try to use thick CA to fill up gaps in wood joints but this can be bad, it can lead to a false sense of security because the joint will be weak. Nothing beats wood to wood contact in a joint.[*] Formula 560 - This is a canopy adhesive and that's exactly what I use it for, for attaching the canopy to the fuselage[*] Gorilla Glue - I don't use this glue too much because of the way it expands while setting up. This can be bad if you don't have the area secured properly because it can push the parts out of position before it dries. But I've found that it does have several really good uses, one especially good is if you have areas that need to be filled and secured. You can apply the glue and a little water and the glue will expand out into the area you want to fill.[*] Thread locks - Self-explanatory. I use thread lock to keep nuts and screws in place. Always use blue thread lock so you can remove the nut or screw later. Never ever use red thread lock because it's permenant, you won't get your nut or screw off ever again.[*] 3M 77 spray adhesive - This is some great stuff that has lots of uses in our hobby. One that comes to mind right off the bat is when doing cockpits. You can use this spray adhesive to hold items like printed instrument panels in place.
[/ul]
Well, that's about all I can think of right now.

I build with CA and epoxy for most framing.

I also use Gorilla glue sometimes. Gorilla glue is great for Robart hinge points. It expands when it cures and forms a nice "plug" behind the hinge. Added strength to keep from pulling hinges out.

I agree about the fumes with CA. I work with an exhaust fan going though. I keep my head and face away from the smoke when it's curing and the exhaust fan sucks most of it out. It's nasty stuff, but I still use it because it's so fast. I am meticulous about how my joints fit, so I never use it to fill cracks....don't have any cracks.

I also use the 560 for canopies. Great stuff. Water clean-up. Dries clear.

I like Zap hinge glue for flat nylon hinges. I've also used this glue on METAL hinges that are included with some of the larger World Models planes. The Zap glue and metal hinges held up to about 450 flights of ABUSE in my 80" Extra 300S w/G62 engine. The plane has been wrecked twice and none of the hinges have ever let go. Not many glues to stick to METAL and wood so well. I did rough up the hinges with a Dremel sanding drum before I installed them. I think most guys would do that anyway. Also used carb cleaner to dissolve and oils or fingerprints before installation.

Elmers glue works great for low stress areas. Wing tips, fairings, small areas of sheeting that aren't structural. Use T pins and let it sit overnight. Dries clear. Lightweight.

Carpenters glue works great on any wood.

I only use epoxy on firewalls, landing gear blocks, wing joints, rear stabilizers and some types of hinges. Epoxy is heavy. It's not any stronger than a CA joint thats been properly prepared, so don't use it (epoxy) for wing ribs, leading edges, trailing edges, sheeting.....

5min epoxy is just as strong as 30min. The 30min just gives you more working time before it kicks off. I've used 5min to install a horizontal stab before. I wouldn't recommend it though. My friend helped me with the install. He's a builder too and he wasn't sure we could pull it off. We had all the paper towels and alcohol ready. We had everything pre-fitted and measured. Had it all set to go. We almost didn't get the excess wiped off the edges before it set. I got it on there straight, but we were going like nuts to get all the excess wiped off before it cured. 15minute or 30 minute from now on.

There's lot of glue out there. The main thing is think about the loads the joint will experience. Select the proper glue for the job.

in most cases the instructions manual is telling you which glue to use when and where.
High stress places like fire wall and wing halves joints and tail section done with 30 min epoxy

My list of glues is very similar to what RCKen and rcpilot wrote:

Epoxy 30 min, I don’t use 6 min
Elmer’s wood glue or TiteBond 2
Formula 560 for canopy and plastic
trying not to use CA’s but Thin CA for CA hinges

I tested the strength of med CA and titebond, in both cases the joint held and the fracture happened in the wood section and not the glued joint.

You will need masking tape, T-pins and a lot of clamps of all sizes and forms to hold the parts while gluing, you cannot have too many clamps.

Alex

In my experience, an epoxied joint will be stronger than a CA'd joint because the epoxy can flex a bit before fracturing. CA is great with lightweight porous wood (balsa) which allows it to soak into the material before curing but I wouldn't use it on harder wood or ply. Also, I've found 30 minute epoxy isn't much stronger than 5 minute but the extra cure time allows it to soak further into the material being bonded before curing making the overall joint strength vastly superior. With that said, I still prefer Titebond II for 90% of my wood bonding. It's lightweight, cheap, sands nicely, and the cure can be accelerated with a hair drier or retarded by moistening the wood before bonding.

Some great info on this thread, I might add the ca has gotten to me over the years as I used it to much to often.... now it screws up my breathing almost instantly ...for days...so be careful ! I was sanding a kit I bought that was framed up...ten years ago, after just a little sanding, bang I could taste/smell that crap in the air , just like it was fresh fumes...

On another note I LOVE the Gorilla /Elmers ultimate glue... Just don't use it where you will need to sand..I like to paint it in joints with a cheap brush or q-tip after using white glues or the foam safe ca's (don't bother me ,don't work as well)

Also on arfs stand the fuse on the nose when its new, drip gorilla /Ultimate down in there , paint it in all the joints... that sucker will be strong now! I also stand the wings up and I paint down in there EVERYWHERE I can get through the root of the wing ( hook a small epoxy brush on a dowel) and servo bays ETC. believe me I think it strengthens them up alot...

I treat every ARF like the guy that built it hates me, I assume the worst and try to make it as good as kitbuilt...

Its all anoying to do, but I have been putting gas motors on things they wern't supposed to be on ,with no structural failure yet! fingers crossed...