Hey Gang, has anyone ever had an issue with Titebond III not making a strong joint between two different types of wood? I'm building a stick/truse type fuse and am using Titebond III. One of the butt-joints between a piece of spruce and balsa came apart. User error? I've used Titebond II without problems (balsa to balsa though), the model even flew...[8D]

Thanks

I had a similar problem with a butt joint between two pieces of hardwood. Titebond is not absorbed into the wood fibers of the hardwood. As a result the joint will fail. I identified this problem before covering a Kadet Senior. Even though all joints were reinforced using 1/64" ply gussets I pinned all of these joints with 1/8" dowels.

I won't be butt joining hardwood ticks again. A dado joint makes sense.

HTH,

when gluing end grain, I always presoak the grain using some thinned down glue, to ensure glue penetration in the join, always maks for a secure and stronger joint

I understand the end grain technique. With a butt joint that solves half the problem. Got any suggestions on softening up the piece that is presented "side grained"?

if the timber in question is what we call oily, that is full of resin and sap, we sometimes wipe it with thinners first, or if its a very tight grain well scape it to roughen it up a little, so the glue can get a bit more bite

Next time I'll rough up the wood first. Cleaning with thinner makes sense as a preventative step as the wood's past is totally unknown.

Thx much.

its not only the woods past, its also its natural state, I've seen what was supposedly spruce that felt so greasy with natural saps and oils I scrapped it. Basicly if the wood feels a little greasy I will wipe the glued areas well with some thinners before gluing.