KentuckyColonel

I just bought this kit on ebay. I have assembled many ARF's (all warbirds except for one Waco UFC7) and decided it's time to get into the real art of RC modeling and build a kit. This will be my first build and I will have, I am sure, more than a question or two along the way. Examples...best glue.....the inevitable, "What is this and where does it go?" and so on. I just did win the auction yesterday afternoon, so it'll be a bit before I even get the kit in my hands. I am pretty excited about the prospect of flying one that I put together.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Well, I always say, "Building is a hobby, flying is a sport"

Hopefully you will enjoy the challenge of building, many of us do.

Although a P-40 is not the best thing to tackle as a "First Build", at least Top Flite is one of the better kits - But I hope for your sake that it is a "Gold Edition" kit - The earlier ones are a lot more difficult.

Good luck, and let the questions flow!

KentuckyColonel

I knew when I bought it that the best way to go with a first build would probably not be the P-40. That said, I wanted the challenge of a nice warbird for the build. As said, I am pretty much a warbird kind of guy, so the thought of building something else just wasn't going to keep my intrest. I'd most likely get started, then set it aside for....well, forever. This way, I will keep the intrest up as she begins to take the form of a warbird. Never know, I might just decide that ARF's are better suited for me, but until you try, you never know.......and I ain't getting any younger.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

You can get the manual here, which should list Glues, tools, etc:

http://www.top-flite.com/airplanes/topa0120.html

Sharpeye22

I see it is a Red box version of the kit. The directions are not all that clear leaving a lot to the builder to know what to do. You will have to do more sanding to get the fit than in the gold edition. In general it is a more difficult build but much more satisfying. They also tend to build lighter than the gold editions do. Just remember the old addage. Measure twice and cut/glue once. In fact I measure, remeasure trial fit, check again then cut/glue.

Ram Jet

It's a beautiful aircraft just take your time. For inspiration read "God Is My Copilot" by Col. Robert L. Scott. The resources here at RCU are enormous and these guys will go out of their way to help.

Bill

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Just where in the Mission Viejo area are you flying at these days?? I used to fly at mile square years ago. Mike, I have never seen modle planes as a sport but I guess if they can put a half dozen girls in a swimming pool doing stunts and call it a sport I guess flying RC is too??

KentuckyColonel

I fly at the OCMA field in Black Starr Canyon out by Irvine Lake. It's only been around a little more that a couple of years. Great spot out in the middle of nowhere. I am a retired Deputy Sheriff (SGT) and used to stop by Mile Square and watch guys fly back in the '80's. That's what got me interested in RC. Sat on the back burner all those years until just before I retired in 2007.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

A shame they shut that down. I used to fly free flights and U-Controls there in the 60s then catch rides in the sail cars. Weekends only because it was still used by the choppers during the week. I fished the lake a lot during the season and raced cars at OCIR. Once in a while I even raced bikes at Saddle Back. Everything is shut down now, a real shame.

KentuckyColonel

I bought this kit to build, but I see there is a lot of collector intrest in an old Red Box kit. I think I might put it back up for auction when I get it and use the money to buy a Gold Edition. Sounds like that would be the way to go for a first time build.

Crash Campbell

Sounds like a plan. I wish I were closer and the Oz dollar was better against the US$, I would be happy to take it off your hands.

Cheers,

Colin

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Good plan!

LesUyeda

The Red Box series were very similar in build to Royal/Marutaka. Mostly a box of balsa blocks that you shaped into an aeroplane. The Gold Edition is engineered.

Les

RCPROPSNAPPER

My Feedback: (22)

I am and have been working on a Red Box P51. I found it an enjoyable build. I put in CJ retracts and am using the old bellcrank system for the flaps and ailerons. I got a Fiberglass Specialties cowl for it to cut down on the carving. It has an MVVS 77 with inverted mount and McDaniels glow. Good luck with your P40. Take your time. It is definitely doable.

EF

I'd build and fly it.

Never understood this "kit collecting" thing, what's it good for?

Although the "red box" are less "engineered" they do contain less parts as a result, and if you don't have a problem with some planing and sanding - it is definitely going to end up in a nice model.

I also have some "collectible" kits and each one will be built, some are already in process.

Sharpeye22

I never understood the collecting anything just to have. I have some things that I do not use often but I do use everything I have. So I agree. A kit is ment to be built and flown. On the other hand more power to the collectors for without them there are some kits we builders could not get today. When they put them up for sell we have a chance to obtain them to build and fly.

Sharpeye

smithcreek

My Feedback: (25)

If there wasn't 3-4 of these on ebay every time I look I might understand collecting, but there are tons of them out there. I got mine off ebay for $75 (gotta love ""Buy it Now" if you happen to sign on at the right time). A couple people I know that have flown both the red box and gold edition thought the red box flew more like a sport plane, easier.

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

I started a Red Box Top Flite P-40 in 1981. It was a box of sticks and balsa blocks. I finally finished it three years later after buying two sets of retracts (one manuel and one air) and a second wing kit. It was about the second/third kit I had ever built. It took two wing kits because I could not get the retracts to fit and operate properly in the origional. It was fiber glassed covered, painted and powered by an OS 61 w/in cowl muffler. Final weight a little over 9 lbs. Flew it one time. Grossly under powered. I would recommend no less the a 90. I currently have a Gold edition which I will start just as soon as I save money for retracts and power plant. Us limited income retirees have to plan ahead to spend $400 at one throw.

KentuckyColonel

Exactly! On another subject. When I returned from my 5 year stint in Germany with the US Army, I bought my first car in Yukon, OK. My Dad was a Lieutenant with the Federal Bureau of Prison's and was working at El Reno at the time. Small world via the internet!

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

Smaller world then you think. In the mid 1950's I was stationed at AG, 7th Army HQ, Stutgart and handled all EM incoming and re-assignments within 7th Army. Back then it was great duty. Would also TDY to various batallions for inspections along with regular leave time. Of course memories are always much better then the reality at the time.

KentuckyColonel

Even smaller yet, my Battalion HQ was in Stuttgart.

manks

I have about 10 planes under my belt, all kits of various types and sized, including one war bird.

There are a few things I do that take more time, but I think will give a better result when building.

1) Read the manual - cover to cover a couple of times, make notes of things that you have to be aware of.

2) Research the model, read several reviews that give you good ideas and minor traps during the build.

3) Go through the entire kit to make sure EVERY part is there, this is very important with a kit that you did not buy brand new. (NIB does not count if the box had been opened even once)

4) Carefully mark every part in the entire kit.

5) When I build, I put as much of the frame together as I can, pinning it to the board, and test fitting everything with out any glue. Once I have put it together once with out glue, it is much less likely you will make a mistake when you do it for real.

matadco

My Feedback: (1)

Kentucky Colonel, I was only over there 13 mo. I went over an E4, was promoted me to E5 and promised E6 as soon as time in grade if I would re-inlist. It was the same time Elvis was there except he was in 3rd Armored. Cold war with the Ruskies was big, especially those batallions close to the zone. It was also a time when Ike thought all us gay young blades (a different meaning then) should learn to sholdier. Don't know what I had because I spent 6 weeks on leaves touring Europe, two months on TDY doing divisional personel inspections then 3 days per month to Hiedelburg to assign incomeing personnel. Very little time at work at C&A. 7th Army HQ was in Vienningen (SP) a subarb of Stutgart. What put a Kentucky Colonel in California? To further the small world, I also lived 5 years in Martinez working in SF.

ByronF

KC
Over the years I have built and flown just about every TF warbird ever made. I can tell you that the older red box kits are real winners (except maybe the bearcat). The red box kits are NOT difficult to build they just require a little more carving and sanding.
By comparison the newer gold edition kits are marvels of engineering providing you enjoy the high parts count and don't mind building the fuse in 2 halves and the wings inverted. The old red box kits are so much simpler. And they are great flyers. I still have some of them and fly them on older HB-61's and they go like rockets when I want them too. The P-40 was one of my favs as was the P-39. The best of the batch though imho were the Zero and the P-47. I would suggest you build the red box version and save the gold edition stuff for later.
ByronF

KentuckyColonel

Okay. It has arrived. I opened up the box and did a quick look see. Not an inventory, just a quick, "Holy Cow, what have I gotten myself into??" look at a box full of sticks and stuff! I have, however, decided to give it a shot. Hey, I'm retired and have time on my hands! Might as well try to pick up a new skill!