tail brace wire
06-08-2003 | 11:50 AM
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From: Tynemouth, UNITED KINGDOM
tail brace wire
Could anyone point me in the right direction how to put a strengthening tail brace wire on a Seagull Edge 540 (or for this matter on any plane) - I have never done this before but think it's worth doing on this plane.
Are there any ready-made kits one can buy for this?
Cheers
Gerhard
Are there any ready-made kits one can buy for this?
Cheers
Gerhard
06-08-2003 | 02:51 PM
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From: Palm Desert,
CA
tail brace wire
I use 2-56 threads on the end of rods and 1/2 clevis' with the hole drilled out a bit. Then used screws through the rudder with nuts on the opposite side. Easy to adjust and small enough not to be obtrusive.
I've used the DuBro kit, but that's overkill in my opinion.
Tried running wire fishing leader around the fin, stab, fuse and back again, but that sawed through the balsa. Put a metal sleeve on it to stop that and got a LOT of interferrence.
I tried just CAing in some wires, but the vibration took them out during flights.
I've used the DuBro kit, but that's overkill in my opinion.
Tried running wire fishing leader around the fin, stab, fuse and back again, but that sawed through the balsa. Put a metal sleeve on it to stop that and got a LOT of interferrence.
I tried just CAing in some wires, but the vibration took them out during flights.
06-08-2003 | 04:33 PM
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From: Tynemouth, UNITED KINGDOM
tail brace wire
Thanks for that hint - so would you use the rods instead of wire, but could you just explain in a little more detail how you would fix the rod to the fin and stabilizer? Would you use clevisis on both ends and how exactly would you fix it to the fin/stab?
Thanks again
Gerhard
Thanks again
Gerhard
06-08-2003 | 05:35 PM
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
tail brace wire
Gerhard:
I've had very good results using the Aramid cord from EMS/Jomar, CA locks it firmly, doesn't come loose unless you hit something. You do need to stretch it before installation, though else it will come slack by itself.
Tie one end to something, then use a drill chuck, a pair of locking pliers, whatever to hold the free end, and yank it HARD several times. You will 3-4% stretch. Use it immediately as it will tend to relax. This will also maintain installed tension.
Bill.
I've had very good results using the Aramid cord from EMS/Jomar, CA locks it firmly, doesn't come loose unless you hit something. You do need to stretch it before installation, though else it will come slack by itself.
Tie one end to something, then use a drill chuck, a pair of locking pliers, whatever to hold the free end, and yank it HARD several times. You will 3-4% stretch. Use it immediately as it will tend to relax. This will also maintain installed tension.
Bill.
06-08-2003 | 05:39 PM
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From: NJ
tail brace wire
Im no expert but on my Sig SE they used a pre-drilled dowl. The fin and stab were drilled out to accept the dowl. Glue the dowl in the holes then you make the braces using a solder clevis on one side and a regular threaded clevis. Then all you do is put a screw through the clevis into the pre-drilled dowel and on the other side connect the other brace and put a nut on the end.. Do the same thing on the bottom except they used a blind nut mounted on the inside of the fuse. You bring the two bottom braces together and they are attached in the same hole at the bottom of the fuse..
Joe
Joe
06-08-2003 | 05:40 PM
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From: Tynemouth, UNITED KINGDOM
tail brace wire
thans a lot for this, Bill. But what is the best way to attach the cord to the fin/stab? Could I use something like the flat plastic plates that come with control horns, just use plates on each side instead of the horn, and screw the cord to the plate?
Cheers
Gerhard
Cheers
Gerhard
06-08-2003 | 09:07 PM
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From: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
tail brace wire
Gerhard:
What I do is use holes drilled through the surfaces. Start the cord from the vertial fin, through one side of the horizxontal stab, through a hole drilled in the lower fuselage, up through the other side of the horizontal stab, then back through the first hole in the vertical stab.
Then, since the two free ends come out opposite sides of the same hole in the vertical stab it's easy to clamp one end, and pull the other to tighten the entire loop.
While holding the tension, put some CA on both sides where the cord goes through the vertical fin. This tightens all four free runs of the cord.
Next, sighting the horizontal and vertical stabs, with the cord not locked anywhere else minor corrections in alignment can still be made.
Finally, put CA on the cord through the horizontal stab, and where it goes through the lower fuselage, both sides, top and bottom. Use plenty, it has to harden the wood too, remember. Then trim the loose ends. You're finished.
Further note: Keep the holes as small as possible, and to help thread the cord through the holes stiffen about an inch of the cord with CA before threading it through. The stiffened part will need to be long enough to push it through the lower fuselage, this length will be cut off after it's all glued in place.
You might also want to have the start and finish at the sides of the lower fuselage for a neater appearance. Pulling the cord tight just seems to be easier with the ends in the vertical stab.
Joe:
If done in initial construction the dowel reinforcement is desired, if using a bolted attachment it is all but required. Using the Aramid cord it's not necessary, and the CA hardens the balsa very well.
If the Sig you are talking about is the Somethin' Extra, that is a metal wire, bolted through. And it does have the dowel reinforcements you mentioned.
Bill.
What I do is use holes drilled through the surfaces. Start the cord from the vertial fin, through one side of the horizxontal stab, through a hole drilled in the lower fuselage, up through the other side of the horizontal stab, then back through the first hole in the vertical stab.
Then, since the two free ends come out opposite sides of the same hole in the vertical stab it's easy to clamp one end, and pull the other to tighten the entire loop.
While holding the tension, put some CA on both sides where the cord goes through the vertical fin. This tightens all four free runs of the cord.
Next, sighting the horizontal and vertical stabs, with the cord not locked anywhere else minor corrections in alignment can still be made.
Finally, put CA on the cord through the horizontal stab, and where it goes through the lower fuselage, both sides, top and bottom. Use plenty, it has to harden the wood too, remember. Then trim the loose ends. You're finished.
Further note: Keep the holes as small as possible, and to help thread the cord through the holes stiffen about an inch of the cord with CA before threading it through. The stiffened part will need to be long enough to push it through the lower fuselage, this length will be cut off after it's all glued in place.
You might also want to have the start and finish at the sides of the lower fuselage for a neater appearance. Pulling the cord tight just seems to be easier with the ends in the vertical stab.
Joe:
If done in initial construction the dowel reinforcement is desired, if using a bolted attachment it is all but required. Using the Aramid cord it's not necessary, and the CA hardens the balsa very well.
If the Sig you are talking about is the Somethin' Extra, that is a metal wire, bolted through. And it does have the dowel reinforcements you mentioned.
Bill.
06-09-2003 | 04:08 AM
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From: Palm Desert,
CA
tail brace wire
On the 2-56 rods:
I cut the pin side of the clevis off, then I drill out the hole side to hold a 2/56 screw. I drill a hole through the fin, bend the clevis about 30 degrees, put it on with a screw temporarily. Then I decide where I want to have it attach on the stab and do the same thing there. Then I fit one rod at a time, screwing in the rod and then cutting and threading the other end to the right length. Yes, it does take a while, and its best to use a drop of CA down the clevis to hold the rod from vibrating.
The other alternative is to mount thin aluminum fingers - with holes drilled in both ends, then have clevis' on both ends and fit as above. I've never had interference this way.
I cut the pin side of the clevis off, then I drill out the hole side to hold a 2/56 screw. I drill a hole through the fin, bend the clevis about 30 degrees, put it on with a screw temporarily. Then I decide where I want to have it attach on the stab and do the same thing there. Then I fit one rod at a time, screwing in the rod and then cutting and threading the other end to the right length. Yes, it does take a while, and its best to use a drop of CA down the clevis to hold the rod from vibrating.
The other alternative is to mount thin aluminum fingers - with holes drilled in both ends, then have clevis' on both ends and fit as above. I've never had interference this way.
