I will be covering my Dynaflite Super Decathon with Koverall, and painting with latex paint. What should I use on the bare wood frame work prior to applying the Sig Stix-it if dope is not an option? I have an unused can of Balsarite -film formula. Could this be used on the wood as a sealer prior to applying the Stix-it?

I once came across an excellent post on using Minwax Polycrylic to apply and prime Koverall, but can not now find the post. Can anyone help me find this post?

Don't use anything. Doping the wood prior to covering allows you to fine sand the wood to get rid of the "fuzzies", and some builders just use dope to apply the Koverall. I find it a tad messier than Stix-It. Just fine sand the airframe where the covering will contact the wood (about 360-400 grit), and then just paint the Stix-It on and give it about 5 minutes to set, then apply the fabric and tack it into place.

I only apply Stix-It where I will have an overlapped seam. On the wings, that would be the trailing edge, wingtip to the L.E. and the aileron bay. I try to use a single piece for each wing half, to avoid the L.E seam. On the Super-D this will work great, as it is a constant chord wing. This allows the covering to "creep" as it is heated and tightened, and equalizes the tension. Of course, I finish with nitrate dope, which will bleed through and attach the covering everywhere it touches wood afterward. Polyurethane will do the same thing. Only difference is that poly doesn't continue to shrink over its lifetime, but as long as your material is initially tight, that shouldn't matter much.

after you follow the excellent advice of khodges just paint the koverall with the polycrylic. use several coats, always taking care to eliminate drips, until you have the weave filled to your satisfaction. it is very hard to sand koverall over open areas of your project so be sure to apply it smoothly.

David is right about that. Be very careful when sanding between coats, as when you put enough pressure on areas between ribs, longerons, etc. you run the risk of sanding through the material over "hard" areas. Don't ask how I know

I did this on a section of my L-4 fuse, my first Koverall job. Since I wanted it to look like a "veteran" warbird, I figured a couple of patches wouldn't look out of place. "Unfortunately", I didn't account for how well Koverall patches disappear into the finish, and you can hardly see them.