I am currently building the bottom wing of a Hog bipe And I am going to put dual servos in each wing panel. In the past i have " stiffened " the ribs in the bay with some ply and Installed servo rails. When it is said and done I do not use a access but rather install servo top flush with wing with only shaft arm above. I also make a "servo well "

Any other methods or ideas? Lets hear what ya got

I build it so there is a servo bay with a frame on 4 sides. I mount the servo to a ply plate and then screw the ply plate to the wing. The servo arm sticks out the ply plate. Like this.


http://www.quickworldwide.com/manuals/Giles202_67.pdf


Dru.

I'll second this method. I've used it on all my planes since I built my first 4*60. The ribs need to be about 3 inches apart for this to work well. You can also get it into some very thin airfoils. The main reason is that the movement of the servo arm is on the same plain as the movement of the aileron horn. That and it a very clean looking setup and very easy to cover around.

Don

Added, there is no need to re-enforce the ribs, just use a hard wool mount for the lid. Glue one along each side rib, and one across the Spar and then a cross member between the servo and the TE. I've crashed four planes with this setup and if the servo came loose, it was because the rest of the wing was destroyed around it. It is a very tough mounting.

Don

I think i will try that method

What I do is mount the side rails 1/16" below the rib outline, unless there are cap strips and in that case, mount to the bottom of the cap strip. I use 1/16" birch ply for the plate. The tough part is getting the position of the servo right. Make sure you make the meaurements and fittings with the servo horn you are going to use. My last build was a new wing for my Ruperts Dad. I spaced the ribs to fit a plate and rails salvaged from a crashed 4*60. After covering, I decided to go with some Heavy Duty servo arms. I had to carve the rails out to clear the extra meat on the servo arm hub. It turned out OK, but with a little planning, I could just as easilly epoxied the lugs down 1/8" closer to the root. Next time.

Don