GP 60 Cub Elevator Joiner Wire
#1
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From: Canada
Do I notch out a small "V" shape in the rudder so that when hinging the elevator and rudder, the elevator joiner wire can fit properly? The manual doesn't really cover this!
Hope you know what I'm talking about...
Cheez
Hope you know what I'm talking about...
Cheez
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From: Kessel, BELGIUM
If the manual doesn't tell you too, perhaps it is not necessary ? Maybe you can refer to the plans, en see if there is a cutout ?
Otherwise, wait until the model is competely build, test fit the elevator and rudder, and if the joiner wire does obstruct, cut out a notch in the rudder...
Otherwise, wait until the model is competely build, test fit the elevator and rudder, and if the joiner wire does obstruct, cut out a notch in the rudder...
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Hi there,
I am building the GP Piper Cub .20 sized kit, and the instructions for that kit show you how to use a sharpened 1/8" brass tube to cut out a round notch in the elevators for the joiner wire, as well as in the rudder for the rear landing gear wire. I actually just wound up using my rotary tool with a coarse rounded sanding bit in it to dig out the groove. Worked pretty well.
I took a look at GP's web site and the 60-size Cub plans that they have there, and on page 11, step 8 describes cutting a notch for the elevator wire to sit in.
Check out this link for the PDF version of the docs.
http://www.greatplanes.com/manuals/gpma0162-manual.pdf
Good luck.
Don
I am building the GP Piper Cub .20 sized kit, and the instructions for that kit show you how to use a sharpened 1/8" brass tube to cut out a round notch in the elevators for the joiner wire, as well as in the rudder for the rear landing gear wire. I actually just wound up using my rotary tool with a coarse rounded sanding bit in it to dig out the groove. Worked pretty well.
I took a look at GP's web site and the 60-size Cub plans that they have there, and on page 11, step 8 describes cutting a notch for the elevator wire to sit in.
Check out this link for the PDF version of the docs.
http://www.greatplanes.com/manuals/gpma0162-manual.pdf
Good luck.
Don
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From: Canada
I have already installed the elevator joiner wire into the elevators and covered it with monokote as well.
I'm about to hinge the elevator and rudder to the tail, but the elevator joiner wire gets in the way of the rudder. If I installed as-is, the hinge gap would be at least as big as the joiner wire is (unacceptable).
I'm worried that if I notch out the rudder to accept the joiner wire, it will compromise the strength of the rudder itself.
Maybe I'm being a little too worried about it, but it seems to me the rudder is a key ingredient to flight! (or controlled flight that is...)
I'm about to hinge the elevator and rudder to the tail, but the elevator joiner wire gets in the way of the rudder. If I installed as-is, the hinge gap would be at least as big as the joiner wire is (unacceptable).
I'm worried that if I notch out the rudder to accept the joiner wire, it will compromise the strength of the rudder itself.
Maybe I'm being a little too worried about it, but it seems to me the rudder is a key ingredient to flight! (or controlled flight that is...)
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From: Wabash, IN,
I have a GP 40 size Cub and have a rudder notch for the same reasons you have encountered. Really don't remember if it was in the directions or not but the directions usually leave something out that causes you to improvise. Use a round file and put the notch in, it will not compromise the strength of the rudder. If you are concerned about the strength put a couple drops of CA on the notch. Get the gaps between the rudder, elevator, and stabs as small as possible. I would also take the covering off the wire joiner to minimize the size and depth of the notch.




