Thrust for a SSE
#1
Thread Starter
Member
My Feedback: (4)
I am putting together a Sig Something Extra, first kit by the way, and there doesn't appear to be any right thrust built in. Right and left fuselage sides are identical. So does Sig think this plane not need any right thrust, or they assume I am smart enough to put some in on my own. Would like to know if other SSE owners ended up putting right thrust in or ended up flying with 0 degrees of thrust</p>
#2
I ended up putting 2-3 degrees right thrust in my second SSE. But I'm putting the cart in front of the horse.
I built my (2nd) SSE true to the instruction manual. I flight trimmed the plane (OS 46 AX) and it was fun but inconsistent. I then started following Dean Pappas' trimming suggestions (Trimming Ground Up). I sealed the control surface hinge lines. Helped significantly. Still pulled a bit to the left. I then added 2-3 degrees right thrust. My take offs are as long and straight as I want to make them. My vertical up lines at full throttle are dead straight.
The technique that I used to add right thrust was, with a 12.25x3.75 prop mounted and positioned level, measure the distance from each tip to the end of the fuse at the fin/fuse junction. 3/16" is equivalent to one degree (source is Dean's Trimming Ground Up #2). I have about 3/8" difference and used washers between the engine mount and the firewall.
TTFN,
I built my (2nd) SSE true to the instruction manual. I flight trimmed the plane (OS 46 AX) and it was fun but inconsistent. I then started following Dean Pappas' trimming suggestions (Trimming Ground Up). I sealed the control surface hinge lines. Helped significantly. Still pulled a bit to the left. I then added 2-3 degrees right thrust. My take offs are as long and straight as I want to make them. My vertical up lines at full throttle are dead straight.
The technique that I used to add right thrust was, with a 12.25x3.75 prop mounted and positioned level, measure the distance from each tip to the end of the fuse at the fin/fuse junction. 3/16" is equivalent to one degree (source is Dean's Trimming Ground Up #2). I have about 3/8" difference and used washers between the engine mount and the firewall.
TTFN,
#3
I simply hacked an extra 1/8 of an inch of the right fuselage side where it interlocks with the firewall. I used those scraps in front of the firewall to fill the void. Easy cakes, and yes it needs it.
#4
Hey Deadeye - as memory fades with age "you are the man". I apologize for not giving you the credit.[:@] I took your 1/8" and verified it using Pappas' stuff. 1/8" at the edge of the firewall equates to about 4/8" at the wing tip of a 12" prop. That's about 2 1/2 - 3 degrees. It flies beautifully with your recommendation.
#5
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
Hey Deadeye - as memory fades with age "you are the man". I apologize for not giving you the credit.[:@] I took your 1/8" and verified it using Pappas' stuff. 1/8" at the edge of the firewall equates to about 4/8" at the wing tip of a 12" prop. That's about 2 1/2 - 3 degrees. It flies beautifully with your recommendation.
Hey Deadeye - as memory fades with age "you are the man". I apologize for not giving you the credit.[:@] I took your 1/8" and verified it using Pappas' stuff. 1/8" at the edge of the firewall equates to about 4/8" at the wing tip of a 12" prop. That's about 2 1/2 - 3 degrees. It flies beautifully with your recommendation.
#6
Have you used flaperons? I've got mine set up with each servo on different channels (Spektrum DX7). I'm too much of a chicken to see what happens when I hit the switch for flaps up or down. 

#7
ORIGINAL: SeamusG
Have you used flaperons? I've got mine set up with each servo on different channels (Spektrum DX7). I'm too much of a chicken to see what happens when I hit the switch for flaps up or down.
Have you used flaperons? I've got mine set up with each servo on different channels (Spektrum DX7). I'm too much of a chicken to see what happens when I hit the switch for flaps up or down.

#8
Randy - You did one special job on the RW&B - settin' a standard. I've got my throws reduced to barely "low rates" as I'm currently playing with pattern stuff. My first (RIP) had counters on the elev & rudd like yours and its roll rate was spectacular to say the least (until one wing decided that it didn't want to play with the rest of the plane). After I build my current project (Killer Chaos) for pattern stuff I'll return the SSE to play-time specs.
Thanks for sharing ...
Thanks for sharing ...
#9
Thread Starter
Member
My Feedback: (4)
I think I will hedge my bets then and go ahead and shim the fire wall 1/8 inch while I am building. I wish I would of read your post sooner Deadeye as I have already glued my fire wall in. Makeing the slots wider would of been a lot slicker than just putting shims behind the motor mount. I'll File that information away for future builds. Thanks</p>
#10
I just checked the amount of side thrust on my yet-to-be-covered Hog Bipe. Without adjustment it had a bit less than 1 degree left side-thrust. I just finished shimming the mount with two washers top-left and bottom-left engine mount to firewall. This adjustment has given me just above 2 degrees right side-thrust. Of course, this is AFTER I had fitted the fiberglass cowl. I needed to open up the clearance around the prop backing plate. Need to make sure I use a big spinner to cover that error.
In the future I will use Deadeye's approach on my planes. Much less retro fitting ...
Good stuff this RCU forum!!!
In the future I will use Deadeye's approach on my planes. Much less retro fitting ...
Good stuff this RCU forum!!!
#11
Just never forget to compesnate with a left sided engine mounting on the firewall . That way everything lines up nice in the center. You have to compensate for the thrust. Am I repeating myself? Gosh darned beer!



