Mud Duck MKII Build
#1
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I am starting a build of the Mud Duck Aviation Mud Duck MKII. This is the updated version by the new owners of Mud Duck Aviation.
This plane is built primarily of 3/16" foam board. It is huge (108" wing span) and is a weird looking bird. Mine will be powered with an RCS SV-17 17cc gas engine. So far I've:
1) Purchased a semi-kit and plans from Mud Duck Aviation.
2) Cut the foam board parts from three (3) 40" x 60" sheets of foam board. I am in Henderson, NV and I found the form board at Office Max.
This plane is built primarily of 3/16" foam board. It is huge (108" wing span) and is a weird looking bird. Mine will be powered with an RCS SV-17 17cc gas engine. So far I've:
1) Purchased a semi-kit and plans from Mud Duck Aviation.
2) Cut the foam board parts from three (3) 40" x 60" sheets of foam board. I am in Henderson, NV and I found the form board at Office Max.
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greenslade (02-13-2026)
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I guess anyone who scratch builds likes to personalize, at least I do. Change #1 - I fabricated tail feathers rather than using the foam core. Don't have to deal with sealing the foam. Probably about the same weight. I'll cover them with Coverite and then paint when I paint the "Duck". I'm also going to add struts to give a little more stability. Have to work the rest of the week so probably won't get much done until the weekend. Anyone esle started theirs?
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From: Hudson, FL
I built this one for Chuck. He runs a 91 four stroke in it and plane floats into the air. These planes are light and are very slow flyers. You'll have fun with yours, it flies great.
Aaron D.
Aaron D.
#18
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Mounted landing gear and strut clips on fuse. Built the rear fuse section and mated it to the front fuse.
I'm going to use 1/4" DuBro axles with ball bearings instead of the dowel axle. Waiting for a couple parts so I can build the wheel bearings.
I'm going to use 1/4" DuBro axles with ball bearings instead of the dowel axle. Waiting for a couple parts so I can build the wheel bearings.
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Progress is slow. It's summer in Las Vegas and too hot to work in the shop most of the time
Installed the servo and pull-pull cables for the tail wheel and built the wheels. I fiberglassed the cardboard tubes and the plywood and primed them.
Installed the servo and pull-pull cables for the tail wheel and built the wheels. I fiberglassed the cardboard tubes and the plywood and primed them.
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From: southington,
CT
here is a partial link to my electric MKII. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...=773143&page=6 Last weekend it was involved in a mid air.Total loss.This plane flies slow.Loves a bigg prop.As for gas engines I'd use maple/oak instead of balsa longerons in front of the fuse.I should have my Agri Duck done for this weekends NEAT Fair in NY.
stefanP
stefanP
#24
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The MK II plans include ailerons. I believe the Agri Duck also has ailerons.
I'll post some pictures of my progress in a couple days. I have the vertical fin mounted and am installing the pull-pull cables for the rudder.
Finished the wheels and painted them. One of the tubes that came with the kiit had a huge buldge when I inflated it so I have to get another one.
I'll post some pictures of my progress in a couple days. I have the vertical fin mounted and am installing the pull-pull cables for the rudder.
Finished the wheels and painted them. One of the tubes that came with the kiit had a huge buldge when I inflated it so I have to get another one.
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From: Keyport,
NJ
Hi Joel,
I just happened across the latests posts here just now. The innertubes you ordered are about to get dropped off at lunch today. You should have let me know you had one with a bulge, I would have just sent a replacement out for you. I will provide a partial refund for the order you just placed.
On a similar note, it was common that you could inflate these to 10", the quality has been slipping among all the inner tube manufacturers (it doesn't matter inside a tire like they are intended to be used, but it shows when just an inflated innertube). I recommend inflating them over a ruler until you get to 9" diameter, I haven't seen any lumps/bulges in my tubes under 9". At that point you can go a 1/4" at a time on each tube and double check for any areas that look like they are going to get swelled up and stop or even let out a bit of air. If you over-inflate the tube and cause a bulge, it will likely be there somewhat even if you let air out, so it is important to inflate in small increments after 9" diameter and do both tubes at each increment. You could feasibly have one tube that makes it to 10" perfectly and the other which will start showing some tendency to bulge at 9.5", if you let out the air from the 10" tube to match the 9.5" tube you will probably notice the tube you let the air out of being "softer" or less "firm" as the smaller one. Inflating them stretches them like you would stretch a ballon to make it easier to blow it up.
Your Duck is looking good, Keep it up!
Greg
P.S. Stefan, I was looking forward to seeing you at NEAT, I assume you couldn't make it. We got the Sport in the Sunday afternoon demos and flew our new electric CricKit as well. Unfortunately with all the kits I packed I couldn't fit my Agri-Duck.
I just happened across the latests posts here just now. The innertubes you ordered are about to get dropped off at lunch today. You should have let me know you had one with a bulge, I would have just sent a replacement out for you. I will provide a partial refund for the order you just placed.
On a similar note, it was common that you could inflate these to 10", the quality has been slipping among all the inner tube manufacturers (it doesn't matter inside a tire like they are intended to be used, but it shows when just an inflated innertube). I recommend inflating them over a ruler until you get to 9" diameter, I haven't seen any lumps/bulges in my tubes under 9". At that point you can go a 1/4" at a time on each tube and double check for any areas that look like they are going to get swelled up and stop or even let out a bit of air. If you over-inflate the tube and cause a bulge, it will likely be there somewhat even if you let air out, so it is important to inflate in small increments after 9" diameter and do both tubes at each increment. You could feasibly have one tube that makes it to 10" perfectly and the other which will start showing some tendency to bulge at 9.5", if you let out the air from the 10" tube to match the 9.5" tube you will probably notice the tube you let the air out of being "softer" or less "firm" as the smaller one. Inflating them stretches them like you would stretch a ballon to make it easier to blow it up.
Your Duck is looking good, Keep it up!
Greg
P.S. Stefan, I was looking forward to seeing you at NEAT, I assume you couldn't make it. We got the Sport in the Sunday afternoon demos and flew our new electric CricKit as well. Unfortunately with all the kits I packed I couldn't fit my Agri-Duck.



