Hi guys

I am building a kit, a Four Star 40 and I am not too sure what covering would be the best to use. There are so many different types. And I am sure each has it's home.

I have only used Solarfilm on a SIG Kadet LT-40 and after 5 years the covering still looks good but not as tight is it used to be and re-ironing it does not seem to tighten it more.

I have also used monokote to patch/fix ARF's. I must say I am quite happy with Monokote, does not wrinkle if your plane stands in the sun all day and you hardly have to iron out wrinkles that just "show up"


Marcel

What's up? I'm fortunate to have two great friends from South Africa, something tells me S. Africa turns out good guys. I've also heard you can't fully stop at a red light in S. Africa because you'll get carjacked.

True? To keep it on topic let's say you had a new model airplane kit on the front seat.

What's up? I'm fortunate to have two great friends from South Africa, something tells me S. Africa turns out good guys. I've also heard you can't fully stop at a red light in S. Africa because you'll get carjacked.

True? To keep it on topic let's say you had a new model airplane kit on the front seat.

Edited - OK you've re-written your post. In your situation in the past I've gone ahead and used what I had on hand. The trick to any covering is pulling it and making it look good before any heat is applied.


Sorry mods, I've done it again, a double post.

Hi.

The Kadet was my first kit ever and guess the covering job is not what it could have been. But hey, still looks good after 5 years and not one seam has come loose :-)

Most people trend to treat a traffic light the same as a stop sign at night in the cities... Some places can be a tad dangerous as far as carjacking is concerned

I really dont like monokote. I think ultracote is a superior product. Generally I cover the plane with ultracote and then do all my trim and patterns in monokote using the windex method. You can do a search on the windex method here on RCU.

The models that I have done that way look better over time than the monokote planes I have.

Monokote = NO
Ultracote all the way. Goes on beautifully smooth and tight, and stays tight.

Personally, I don't like the fact that you can see through most colors of Ultracoat. It always looks really cheap to me. I prefer Monokote.

Thats not exclusive to ultracote, I covered a 90 sized plane in monokote yellow and was very disappointed in how much of the wood grain showed through.

I just used some Sig Aerokote on a plane and it seemed to act like Ultrakote - low heat adhesive melt. Anyone here used this much? What do you think of it? Interesting point is that the color is in the film, not the adhesive.

Stuck in a rut, only use monokote.

I use both, most of what I have sitting in the the shop is monokote so at the moment that what I use, when I have ultrakote I use it. My problem is paint, fuel proof paint is harder to come by and or really expensive

I just covered a model with Sig Koverall fabric.  I used minwax polycrylic for the "dope".  The Sig requires an adhesive be applied to the airframe first.  I also recently found out there are other fabrics out there that allready have the adhesive applied.  I do believe I like the fabric better than Monokote.  I was never good at hiding the seams on Monokote and the fabric seams sand away. 

There are so many coverings and methods it would make your head spin. The first thing to decide is what is your basic objective? I get the impression you want something like Monokote (no painting, less permanent). Of that type (shiny plastic look), I prefer Ultrakote but none of those are very permanent IMO and serve their purpose to get you flying. It is important to seal the seams around where the fuel will blast it so it will stay on the airplane.
Solartex is a great covering and is far and away superior to Ultrakote and Monokote. This is a fabric and has a more satin realistic look. Great for scale applications. It can be painted as well. Sig has a product called coverall which is great as well. It is a fabric with no glue, so Balsarite must be painted on to where you want it to stick. It shrinks down with heat and then needs to be painted.
The plastic films are a good compromise on small sport models as they are fast and light. They just do not last forever. At least I have never been able to get them to.