Out with the Old and in with the New!

SWEET!!

X 2


Bob

Man what are all the trick options on that thing? besides the nice carrying handle? it sure looks like a winner.

Well Foodstick,

It can use pinned and plain end blades. "Yes! Now I can use plain end spiral cutting blades to cut out notches on the fly!"
18.5" throat, "Now I can cut out 37" cord ribs"
The controls are mounted on the head.
It has variable speed that can be set as low as 450 RPM.
Working dust blower, "until it stops working then it's back to the fish tank air pump".
It weighs 50 pounds, 30 pounds more than the old one. "less vibration, though still bad compared to a $600 Dewalt"
Fully adjustable table that can be set to a square 90` to the blade! Can be set up to 45` right and 5` left. Notches at 15` increments.
Vacuum hose connection
Tooless blade changes with a one step blade tensioner mounted on the head.
Cool carry handle, did I mention that this thing weighs 50 pounds?

The first model 1800 had a LED light and a disk sander on it. They had problems like the LED bulb not being replaceable and the fact that disk sanders suck at sanding small thin parts like you would cut on a scroll saw. So Dremel came out with their best and last scroll saw model 1830 that is just a pure scroll saw. Dremel/Bosh doesn’t make scroll saws anymore.

Here is a pic of the 1800

Which one's the new one. Yours Paul.T

i will have to upgrade mine now, there are some features that i didn't know existed.

Yeah David they sure don't make them like they used to!

I got this stand at Sears last week. With the scroll saw on it the table it's 39 1/2" high. I'll need to trim the legs a lot. I'm going to get rid of the 1/2" MPB and get a 1" thick wood table top. I'll also be putting a 1/2" rubber mat under the saw to try and tame some of that high speed vibration. I think a table higth of 35" will be low enough to see good but high enough not to hurt my back during long sessions like the up coming Ziroli F9F Panther former scrolling marathon next year.

I recently upgraded to a newer used scroll saw, but I think I am still way WAY behind you! mine looks more like your last saw... Its about kit cutting time for the most of us..so have at it !

I shortened the legs on the stand by 6", added a new wood table top, and added a 1/4" rubber mat under the saw. The scroll saw working table is now 34 1/2" high, perfect! I moved the saw off center and now have lots of room on the table to ad a real work light instead of the silly little LED one that the 1800 saws came with. Going to ad a power strip to the stand and get a foot control later. I think I'll install the power strip and light today.

please keep us posted on your improvements. especially the foot control.

The light went better than I had hoped. I got a halogen desk lamp. It fits in it's base with a strait rod. On the side of my scroll saw is a place for the foot hold down rod to mount. I don't use it so that port is open. The rod of the lamp fit right in there and clamped into place. Works really well.

Oh, by the way...

What are you doing with that rufe kit?

Just seeing if I finally have the skill and patience to actually build one of those damn Guillows kits. I got 1/2 done with a P-40 years ago and chucked it into the trash. I'm planing to scratch build a 140 size Rufe in 4 years. It's #14 on my to-do list.

I have never been impressed with the Dremel saws (I have one of the old black ones, terrible, they should have stuck with rotary tools) although the one you got looks pretty nice. It is probably a 're-labeled" unit built by some other company, NICE. I have a Ryobi that I bought several years ago for about $90 that I like. Solid unit, variable speeds, dust blower, vac attachment, etc..

My first scroll saw was a Sears Craftsman "black one" That thing was terrible. I didn't have a dust blower and didn't need one because there was so much vibration that the dust danced off the table. The Buzz of that thing made it impossible to concentrate on your cutting. The blade was 2* off when set to zero notch and the next step was 5*. It was the same one as the Dremal, Delta, and others sold.

I'm done!

First I rigged up a power strip under the stand table.

The lamp has a inline switch instead of having it on the lamp head. I zip tied it to the top of the scroll saw so it will be up front with the rest of the controls. I ran the cord down the back and tied it in with the main power cord. The lamp lights up the table just right.

Next I installed the foot switch. This is a nice feature on a scroll saw. I put in a dead man switch so when I push it the saw comes on and when I let off the saw cuts off. So when a blade breaks and I jump back the saw will cut off.

The 1800 saw had a port for a rotory tool. So I added one to the stand. Now I can sand trouble spots easily. I'll have to post a review on this Black and Decker rotory tool. This thing is great! I like it better than the Dremel and it's only $25 to boot.

All in all I think this new Dremel will be a great addition to my work shop. I think I'll like working on this set up more than just having it on a work bench like my old ones.

You sure you build stuff in that room??<div>
</div><div>Doesnt look like there is a speck of dust anywhere!</div><div>
</div><div>My workshop looks like a bomb gone off in a balsa lumber yard. </div><div>
</div><div>Nice setup. Been considering getting a scroll saw for a while. That Dremel one looks nice. Have you had a chance to feed some trees through it yet? Would like to know how accurate it is. </div>

I found a NIB 1976 Sears scroll saw last year and love it. It has a heavy iron frame and table top. It is single purpose, no sander, etc. but has accurate table tilt and turnable blade position.

LOL I have a lot of wood working stuff in there too not in the picture. A dust collector would solve most of your dust problems. They clean up the saw dust and even suck it out of the air.

I have a Sears one.

Here is one like mine on ebay.au

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Dust-Collecto...item4a9d4c492b