tobydogs

opps forgot the cloudy picture.....also forgot how to spell.....

RICKSTUBBZ

tobydogs,

Thanks for posting up some pics of your uproar in flight.

Going by the numbers and text I can find, the servos I am using are equivalent to the HS81’s you mentioned. However, much more than the HS55’s.

Your servo suggestions are not out of line. I appreciate it. I also know what you are saying is correct, even if I do something different. Your input will be read by many and it might help someone decide on servos for their plane.

In my own defense, Great Planes has a 52+” electric powered ugly stick they sell “receiver ready” that has only three of the ES80’s - one aileron, one rudder, one elevator. It weighs in at 3 to 3 1/2 lbs. Now, I know we are not talking apples to apples. But I am putting two on the ailerons and two on elevator. I’ll be using a standard servo for the rudder.

In my case I am committed to use what I have but would encourage anyone to go with your suggestion of metal gears if they are using small servos at least until I/we get plenty of trouble free flights logged onto these things. It is an experiment that I must follow through with. I just should not be doing it with three airplanes at once.

POSTING TIP….Another RCU user tipped me off a while back. Right your post in “Word” or whatever word processor you have on your computer and then use the cut and paste method to get what you have typed into the thread. That way if something happens you don’t have to start over.

Later,
Rick

tobydogs

thanks for the posting tip,it may be caused by going from email to the rc site ,which i'm about to find out.

i also should have read your posts earlier better as 2 servo serving the elevator is better than one and you should be flying in no time.

i only offered mho because of how much work your doing on whats my favorite bird in the coop.stu

tsircy

My wife just bought an Uproar for me as a birthday present. A friend of mine suggested I check out the mods for the uproar tail section on this site. I am impressed with the design as well as all of the other work Rick is doing. I can't wait to see that thing fly. I just hope you didn't go overboard with all of the holes which may in turn, compromise the integrity of the plane. Anyway, I hope it holds up for you!
I am currently trying to finish up a J-3 cub. But when it is finished, I am going to start on my uproar with the posted tail section mod! I was already planning on giving it rectangular ailerons. This thread has me pumped!

tobydogs

it always amazes me how an air frame can be made lighter and the iron on film cover shrinks tite and strengthens everything up.

when i built the mini telemaster i thought it was to flimzy but once covered it was very strong......balsa is fun stuff.

the mods your thinking of doing are great and simple to do with out changing the weight to much.

ya gotta good wife there tsircy!!! she and the uproar are keepers.

my wifes the same kinda girl as since my heart surgery i'v built 2 planes...lol....i'll use any excuse to build. with out a doupt rick post are the best build thread on the roar i'v read,glad you found this before you build started.

RICKSTUBBZ

tsircy,
Welcome aboard. I have one of those Great Planes Cubs hanging out half built in my shop. I hope to finish that thing up shortly after these uproars are done.

As a reminder...to go along with all the holes in the fuselage, I have added 1/4” triangle stock down all the corners. This first fuse was already stiff with out the top on it. As much as a fuselage can be these will be tough - even with the holes.

I noticed the other day while taking pictures of this thing, I forgot to sand the edges of all the holes in the fuselage. Bummer...Anyway, I did that tonight. At least I caught it on this one and sanded the other two pairs of sides while they are still apart.

When sheeting the bottom of the fuse I also sheeted over the landing gear plate in order to keep things consistent. In picture one you might be able to see, while still rough sanded, I have applied a thin layer of epoxy to the balsa where the landing gear plate is to stiffen it up a bit.

I finished boxing in the outside of the fuselage where the elevator servos will go and added a cross brace at the bottom of the servo holes. These servos only have one screw in each end to mount. In addition to this cross brace I’ll add a small piece of foam between the top sheeting and servos to capture the servos and keep them from flexing on the screws so much.

The aft top sheet is now being glued using wood glue down the edges (balsa to balsa) and I put a small bead of 30 minute epoxy across the two formers.

gunneredwards

My Feedback: (4)

I scratch built my tailfeathers, if you look at my profile you can see the mods. i added counter balances and almost 1.3 inches in length on the elevator and 2 inches on the length of the rudder... man does it fly nice. if you need any hints, pm me and I will email you more pictures.
dan

RICKSTUBBZ

Dan (gunneredwards),

Welcome, feel free to post and share anything you like about the uproar/dazzler.

RICKSTUBBZ

I’ve been trying to get some of the PITA work done so that I can get this wing glued to the fuselage. I also decided to go ahead and put cap strips on one side of the wing while it was much easier to handle. As soon as Get done with this post it will be back to do some finish sanding on the wing.

1 - I cut some sheet material to 1” wide to make the caps at the root ribs
2 – No. 64 rubber bands are just about the right size to wrap around the wing as a clamp for the caps strips
3 – I used some pieces about 5/8 wide for the tip ribs. Makes them just a little bit tougher
4 – Started casing up the aileron servo. Used some pieces of cap strip material glued vertical for stiffeners in front and back
5 – Front and Back cross pieces glued on
6 – Opposite side boxed in
7 – Servo in
8 – Top side of wing. I left the one rib uncapped (seen from bottom in picture 6) so the wing will look a little better once covered

Daddyo57

My Feedback: (15)

RICKSTUBBZ GREAT Idea on the 1 inch cap strips!!!! I wish I would have done that for sure, it would be much easier to apply monokote if there is something to attach to!!!! I will make my next Uproar (#3) with many of the improvments I see here for sure, dont get me wrong! both of my Uproars fly great but making it easier and faster to build is a big plus in my book! Looking Good there as usual. I plan to fly my Uproar in the morning along with my trusty Kaos 40 (Bridi) and my new Electric Cosmos 3-D (maiden).

gunneredwards

My Feedback: (4)

Hey Rick, are all the lightening holes really necessary? How much weight are you saving? My dazzler only weighed 3.2 pounds. I am running a os55ax on it and have way more power than i will ever need.

RICKSTUBBZ

Hey there again Dan,

Are the holes really necessary? [sm=spinnyeyes.gif] No.....

I have not kept a running tally of my weight savings. I have posted here and there what I have saved. But again, I've not kept a running tally. My WAG would be all the holes have saved me at best a couple maybe three ounces per plane.

At 3.2 lbs you have the lightest one that anyone has claimed. You must have got a really good kit with all light balsa. Once I get them built I'll post how they weigh in.

RICKSTUBBZ

Cliff,

How'd it go? I made it out today. Was a pretty nice day. Put 5 flights on the "Wild Stik". Late in the afternoon a front blew in. So, I got to do a little "kite flying" for the last flight.

Daddyo57

My Feedback: (15)

We had an unusually warm and wind free 2 days here in So Cal, I did indeed maiden the little Cosmos and while alot of fun it is a handfull! then i put the ailerons on fast rate and really got my heart going. I dorked the prop on landing and bent the gear a bit but she will fly another day. I flew my old uproar and enjoyed it very much, I have a couple of little Monokote pieces coming lose off of UproarII so I left her home, I also need to finish breaking in the engine so I wont totally cover it in goo when I fly. I was out at the field until 3:00pm and I got there a bit before 9 am so it was a nice long relaxing day. What engine do you have in the Wild Stik? it looks like fun!

RICKSTUBBZ

I saw a couple pictures of the cosmos that you had posted somewhere else. Just can't remember where. Hope it's not too much work to get it going again.

Super Tigre 90 keeps the Wild Stik moving. The thing is a blast. That is an old picture in the previous post. Here is another old picture. Every time I fly it more of the original covering comes loose. the fuse has been recovered completely now.

I have a question on your covering with Uproar II. Is it just the trim coming off? Also, (I am being to lazy to go back and read through the thread) did you use the Windex method for applying the trim? I've never tried it because I worry about it pealing off after time.

I"ll be trying to get some more done on the builds today. Getting real close to gluing a wing[sm=47_47.gif]

Later

gunneredwards

My Feedback: (4)

that was the bare plane... after the wheels/landing gear and the motor and an aluminum engine mount, it hit 4.4 pounds, but with the os55ax, it is a great performer.

SigFan

Hey, all I have a quick question.

I keep hearing about how these build nose heavy. Where have you located your battery? I'm at the point where I'm about to close up my fuse(s) and was wondering if it would be worth my while to put in a hatch between F3 and F4 for the battery.

I have a 46AX going into one and a 55AX in the other. Every thing else is pretty much stock and the battery will be 5 cell 6V.

Daddyo57

My Feedback: (15)

RICKSTUBBZ yeah it is a couple of the little accent drops coming loose, I would have used the windex method and I did use it to hold the Monokote to the glass for cutting the shapes but when I applied the many pieces I used a regualr Monokote Iron due to the sag between ribs. What I mean to say is if you need to do any shrinking or forming of the trim you will most likely need to use the iron. I have used the Windex method with great success recently applying trim to an old Little Stik I recovered. It was my first time using the method and i wanted to do some crazy skull graphics but the pieces were too small. SigFan, I read that too about some of them coming out nose heavy, the reason either of my birds didnt come out nose heavy may be that I snuggled the engine as close to the firewall as I could and used slant tanks with the fuel lines coming through the top of the fuel hatch, I like this method as I find it real easy to service the fuel system. I use the hayes short round mounts if that helps at all. The battery ends up right behind the leading edge in my airplanes with the RX real close, I dont like puting the battery behind the RX in case of a crash... you might have some room depending on the RX size but the Uproar isnt known for a huge radio area. let us know how you come out. My Uproars have great power with the GMS .47s on them and i was tempted to try the OS .46 but a .55 should be insane! I run the APC 11x7 props and the little GMS seems to be happy.

RICKSTUBBZ

Dave,

So far, it seams to me, the uproars build nose heavy especially with the bigger engines. My suggestion would be, if you can, mock up a full assembly before gluing the back of the fuse up. This way you could mount battery servos or whatever without a hatch. Granted that could mean surgery if you have to do maintenance.

If you go with an additional hatch behind the wing (between F3 and F4) design it as such that you can maintain torsional strength of the fuse. Even with all the holes in my fuselage, there is little to no twist.

An alternative would be to mount your servos in the sides of the fuse similar to how I have done. Even if you are using one servo for the elevators (assuming the use of the metal joiner) and one for the rudder they can be mounted in the sides and the linkages hooked up similar to stock - just being external to the fuse.

RICKSTUBBZ

Daddyo57,

Thanks for the additional input on using Windex for the monokote trim. Question, since it is supposedly the ammonia that does the work have you ever tried strait (or watered down) ammonia?

Daddyo57

My Feedback: (15)

No I have never tried it, I hate the smell of Amonia though [:'(] LOL I think it would probably work fine. I need to find some sort of sealer to apply to the small pieces of trim so they will adhere permanently, I have heard thinned clear Dope, clear nail polish and a couple others so I will give them a try.

RICKSTUBBZ

Ok, I’ve done a little bit of work. The other day I forgot to mention I glued the 1” caps to the wing root ribs with 30 minute epoxy. It just seamed to me everything I could do to strengthen that joint would be a plus. I cut some pieces of foam to glue to the ribs for the aileron servos. While sanding I noticed it was easy for the center of my bottom hatch to bow out. So, I added a center brace for that. Finished gluing triangle stock to the firewalls for all three planes. I also used a cheap acid brush to apply thinned epoxy to the fuel tank area as well as the inside of my bottom hatch. Then Finally managed to glue on the wing for this one. To glue the wing in the fuse I did use a combination of thin CA and medium CA.

RICKSTUBBZ

Cliff,

I’ve used this stuff to apply hand cut window trim on a Decathlon. It works pretty well. Just a little bit of a PITA. I used a Q-tip to apply. A jar is kind of pricey but it should last a while. It is not an instant kind of set like when you are using heat.

Daddyo57

My Feedback: (15)

Good Idea on the trim solvent! I will get some today at my LHS provided they have some... I am pretty sure I saw some last time I was there. I used to use epoxy for fuel proofing but one time it kind of flaked off for some reason, I still use it in some places but i have good luck with old fashioned Sig Dope in clear, I usually put multiple coats but the stuff is kind of stinky. I guess I am lazy, the only place I used epoxy was on the firewall with a bunch of Xacto grooves for more traction, everything else is pure CA usually in medium and zip kick it or sprinkle with baking soda to set it. Does the smell of CA get to you sometimes? it will me if I use a bunch of the thin and the kicker smells funky too. I remember the second kit I built in 1980 (Sweet Stik) the guys told me about the new fangled Super Glue and I used it but still went around the edges with Aliphatic resin. Now I use CA like crazy, I even have used it on the glass center sections instead of Epoxy several times [sm=red_smile.gif] my wife gets on me about all the stinky stuff I use BTW I really like that Decathalon!!!! never had one myself it is on the do list though!

RICKSTUBBZ

Daddyo57,

CA doesn’t bother me as much as it does some folks. But, If I do a lot of it while standing over the work with my face in the fumes then it gives me a few of the basic problems. Burning eyes comes to mind plus a little sinus burn. I do try to keep my face away from the fumes as they rise. Like you, I have used just about everything for fuel proofing and applying fiberglass to wing centers and/or repairs and firewalls. Dope, Epoxy, CA, and even Fiberglass resin (what a novel idea using fiberglass resin [it does make a bit of a smell]). For fuel proofing I have also used the old 2 part Hobby Poxy paint that they quit making. Right now I have some epoxy that is getting old. What better way than fuel proofing to use it up. I’ve not had a problem with the epoxy separating from wood yet. How I built my tail surfaces for these Uproars shows how much I love CA. Just cant put stuff together like that with out it.

To continue with my unorthodox way of doing stuff and/or experimenting I applied some silicon sealer to specific areas of my fuel tank where it comes in contact with the bulk head and wing front-leading edge. I also put some more of the same around the fuel tank cap and the hole in the firewall where the fuel tank cup will be exposed. Carefully placed the tank, epoxied up the firewall and triangle braces put it all together and screwed a few clamps on the whole mess. Hopefully the third picture is clear enough to finally explain my fuel tank versus wing and why I built the wing center the way I did. The tank is completely suspended between the hole in the firewall and how I fit it in the former (F2).