Where would you mount the ignition box? I was thinking on the fire wall below the engine and the battery under the fuel tank and the switch on the side under the first window panel. I am using a crrc 40 engine so what do you all think michael

You might want to read this thread. It's an exstensive build thread that may address your question. If not ask it on this thread as it is still active.



http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2294315/tm.htm

I have read that post and it realy dint address that issue michael

It gets VERY hot inside the cowl of planes like this. IMHO, placing the module BEHIND the firewall, away from some of that heat, is a ggod thing. A small hole through the firewall to pass the ingnition HT lead through, and another even smaller for the trigger, seal them w/ silicone. Mount the module to the back of the firewall. A small vent from the side or bottom of the fuselage to allow some air through the tank area to vent it and provide additional cooling for the module is a good thing (might also help avoid an explosion in the event of a fuel leak inside the tank area)...

Thought of that to. I will just have to figure out how to mount it to the fire wall and be able to get it out if I need to. Ive read some where that some one built a box in the fuel tank area for the battery and ing box but he didn not show a picture of it. I did mod the tank area so I can remove the fuel tank. I think I can put the battery under the fuel tank. I will keep thinking about it something will come to mind michael

Ignition battery can go forward (under tank OK)... DO NOT put radio component forward, keep them as far as possible away from the engine/ignition.

I placed mine at the top of the firewall behind the engine. The engine is inverted, so most of the heat is low. Heat does however rise. Either way, I have had no issues with it mounted there. The CRRC 40 should tug the model around admirably! I have upgraded all my CRRC ignitions to CH ingnitions. The drag about placing the ignition inside the fuse, is you would need a hole through large enough to get the plug cap through. That's a bit large. I suppose you could have a screw on cover to fill all but the wire hole once through and screw this on.

The other build thread is great and quite active. It is nice to keep as much info as possible in one location... IMHO.

most plug caps can easily be removed from the wire to pass it thru a small hole, then replace the cap onto the wire...

I looked at that on the CRRC ignitions, but I could find no key to getting them off. The wire is shielded the entire length, which means it is grounded to the metal cap. I was afraid I would mess up that ground if I forced it off. I'm thinking the CH ignition is much the same. I guessed that they were pressed or crimped onto the wire. I noticed the ignition on another model I have has a ground wire running directly to the metal plug cap and no shielding. I would expect I could unscrew this cap.

I am using a rcexl box guess I will pull the fuel tank and see where I can mount it. As far as the reciver and servos they are back where the wing blots are and the throttle severo is about 18inches from the fire wall. I am using a nyrod with a plastic ball socket on the end for the carb and a rod thru an adjustable keeper on the sevro arm. I am woundering if I can cut a hatch in the bottom under the fuel tank and mount the box there? Then I would not have to drill a hole in the fire wall sort of a half circle for the wire to come out sense the engine is mounted inverted I plan on putting the box and switch and battery in the fuel compartment so what do you all think michael

That sounds like a great solution. I'm assuming you'll be keeping your receiver and flight pack back near the servos? I personally feel pretty good if I can get about 6 inches between any part of these items, including on/off switches and charge plugs. I've seen many models with the charge plug/switches on opposite sides of the model with good success... or about 4 to 6 inches. More is better.

I'm likely about 4" on my Decathlon, with the flight batteries being the closest items.

I've been using the SmartFly ignition cutoffs on mine with great success. These are optical links to the ignition. It can kill your engine even if you have a throttle linkage lets go. Of course nothing can travel back to the receiver through a fiber optic cable.