I recently bought some epoxy to finish my Kavalier build. I only use it on the firewall, landing gear blocks and dihedral joint, but these are critical joints
and must be as strong as possible. My problem is that the glue I purchased is absolute garbage.
So, give me some ideas. What are your favorite epoxy glues? What are some high quality brands?

Thanks
Ed

Last year some of us reviewers were sent samples of epoxy from Newton Supply called Epo-grip. Since I've started using it I've thrown all the rest of my epoxy away. I love this stuff. It comes in a paste with the consitency of peanut butter. It's easier to work with than more traditional "runny" epoxies, it stays where you put it, and it's very strong. I highly recommend it.

I've been recommending this to my flying buddies and one finally caved in and got some. After his first use he called me up on the phone and the only thing he said was "You were right about this epoxy. It's great!!!"

http://epogrip.com/hobby/

Ken

Pretty much what ever my LHS stocks has been very good. At the moment the epoxy I am using is Towers brand name. I use 30 minute for the most part. The trick with epoxy is to mix it 50/50 and mix it very well. This time of year I use my heat gun to get it warmed up then use an acid brush to mix, I also mix it in old cleaned out pudding cups, plastic and no wax. I mix it until it is frothy to make sure there are no unmixed globs. Never had a problem with it not setting up but in cold weather it does take a little more time.

I am a reviewer for RCU, and although I didn't receive any of the epo-grip, I used some from a fellow reviewer. This stuff does ROCK, and it stays where you put it!

I have had excellent results over the years using Devcon brand epoxy. The 30 minute-2 Ton works for firewall.

Hi,

So long as the epoxy is a "reputable" brand go for the longest cure possible on critical joints to allow maximum penetration hence max strength. The "Epo-grip" mentioned by Ken and gabarber sounds interresting. Any chanch of a sample to see if it works as well "down under"? The Corolios forces being reversed may effect it.

Cheers,

Colin

Funny- just stand on your head while mixing! [;D]

Ken,
I have not seen this at any hobby in Ga. is it mail order only??
Thanks Derrick

Derrick,
 Right now it is. I've been talking to Erik Steinbrink (owner) quite a bit as he's been at many shows this summer I was covering and I know he's trying to expand. I do know he got a booth in Toledo so he'll be there. He's also trying to get a distributor like Tower or Horizon to carry his product so he can get into the hobby shops and such. I'm going to send him a PM to bring his attention to this thread so he can answer your questions.

Ken

I use the great planes 6 minute and 30 minute stuff. I really like the gp 30 minute stuff because I can mix it in the little plastic cups u get from the pharmacist and I can mix the snot out of it without it acting like 5 minute stuff and curing in a blaze. Some 30 minute stuff (hanger 9) will cure stupid fast if it is stirred to quickly.

For fuel proofing I use zpoxy with a brush and wipe most of it off with a rag. Any thing that needs strength I use the gp 30 min stuff.

I can't remember the name of the epoxy I bought and I'm not wading out to the workshop to get it. It's pouring down with rain at 1 inch an hour. The stuff is 30 minute epoxy and it works great.
What I do want to do is warn you all of some epoxy that I mixed to paint all around my new ZDD to fuel proof it. I mixed the resin as per the instructions but I forgot when I bought the stuff. In retrospec, it must have been about eight years ago. About4 hours later, the resin turned into what I would call, "crude oil". It was a horid brown goopthat soaked into the wood like a solvent does. I spent hours trying to squeegee the muck off with a steel scraper. Two weeks later, I sealed the balsa with dope and a new supply of laminating epoxy. The entire fuse was then glassed with 2oz cloth and it now looks like it should have when I first started.
The moral of this story is "If the epoxy is more than two or three years old maximum, give it the big toss".
Wedge

Wedgetails, the eagles that rule the skies

How about structural adhesive, maybe something in the flavor of 3M-1838 I use it in aerospace applications all the time and you can purchase it through RS Hughes.

Bob

I have also used the Epo-Grip. They have a fast setting and slow setting formula. The fast set gives you about 5 minutes of working time, and the slow set gives you about 45 minutes.

But the slow set takes several hours to really set up, so I only use it on "overnight" gluing items. That said, I really love the stuff. I has the consistancy of Vaseline, so once you smear it into something like a wing joiner pocket, it won't all run down to the bottom of the pocket like regular epoxy will.

I like it best for joining wings and installing Robart Hinge Points

For the Aussies asking about Epo Grip
The product that is similar to EpoGrip is called "Techniglue GA" and it is made in Queensland - it is available from pretty much any fibreglass materials supplier and most likely a few hardwares on the East coast. It is a copy of Conglue GA ("Fred Glue" - no longer available) and is also available in slow and fast setting.

I prefer West System epoxy. The quart can and matching little hardner can have pumps which deliver the correct ratio. Nothing stronger than this stuff, but slow. They also have several thickening powders. I prefer their 404 for thickening. If you will need to sand the epoxied area, they make a 410 powder that you add until the stuff is very thick. Now you will be able to sand it. For fuelproofing I just use it straight and lightly coat the area so it doesn't run.

Same here!

Bruce

Ken,

Thank you for the heads up. Thank you to everyone for the positive words!

Newton Supply Company Inc has been in the Epoxy adhesive business for over thirty years. We introduced three of our products to the hobby industry two years ago. You may have read about them in reviews here at RC Universe and RC Report publication. Our claim to fame is manufacturing paste epoxy systems. Our materials are ready to go, just open the jars and mix 1:1. There is no need to add microballoons, milled fiber, etc.........we have taken that work away from you.

Currently, we offer three epoxy paste materials to the hobbiest (Clear Paste, #30 Paste, and Model Matrix). All of our material is available in 8oz, 16oz, Quart and Gallon sizes. To read about the materials please go to www.epogrip.com. There is a fourth product in final stages of testing and should be making its debut at the Toledo show, it will be a fiber reinforced slow set paste.

To date, our material is available direct 1-800-888-2467 or can bought via shopping cart at at www.modeladhesives.com . We will ship anywhere in the world. I was recently approached for case quantity purchasing for clubs and those who have friends who wish to get together and purchase in bulk. That is now available, and that price list will be posted shortly on our website. Hopefully, at the Toledo show we will be able to find a distributor to make our material more widely available.

Please feel free to ask me any questions you might have.

Regards,

Erik Steinbring

Sig use to have an excellent epoxy !! as did hobby poxy !! here lately I have started using Loctite Hysol Ep-120 & Ep-20 1 hour and 20 min. Highest sheer strength & peel I have found. off white and wont run or sags very little !! You must have a gun or as I have done, make one out of ply & dowels !! can be bought at motion industries & w w grainger Dale

I dont mean to belittle the epogrip people, but, if you want an epoxy to stay where you put it and not run down the joint. Do what I do. I just mix some Cab-O-sil with it. ****701 Cab-O-Sil: A lightweight, fumed silica thixotropic powder which is added to polyester/vinylester and epoxy resins to make a non sagging paste to prevent runoff and sags on vertical surfaces. Also, used as a thickener to fill surface holes and flaws**** That is what its made for. Turns liquid epoxy or polyester for that matter into a gell. to add some extra strength to it also, you can also add some milled fibers to it.**** 703 Milled Glass Fibers (1/32) milled glass fibers are short lengths of reinforcing glass that may be added to any resin system to increase their strength. Often used in conjunction with Cab-O-Sil or Glass Microspheres to make high strength putties***** These are basic additives to people who are in the "business" and not largely known throughout the general users of epoxy. Check with the local guys that sell West systems or any other industrial suppliers. They will have both or should have both on hand to sell you. Alot cheaper to buy your own additives and mix as you need instead of buying a high priced single application. These are my thoughts, facts, and experiences over the years Ive been doing molding and modeling.

Here is a link to what I mentioned above along with prices. Hope this helps. http://www.lbifiberglass.com/FAIRCOMPFILL/faircomp.html

The product got a great review from RC Report, it's one of the new products I have wanted to try but due to shipping costs I haven't had the pleasure. I will be one of the first ones in line if one of the LHS starts to carry it. Wish I was close enough to the show to stop by your booth to take a look, it really does look like one of the better products on the market for builders. Best of luck in Ohio!!!!!!

I've been using ZAP Z-Poxy for 20+ years and have had excellent results. 5 minute and 30 minute formulas as well as finishing resin

Oh how I miss that Petite Hobbypoxy slow set, even the smell was great. Seems just when a company gets something right they discontinue it.

Unless Devcon has changed it's formula the old stuff we used to use wasn't fuel proof and would turn into a yellowish brown goo if used on firewall or engine compartments. But it was great for non-fuel prone areas.

I use Radio South epoxy if I only need a small amount. I'm sure it's probably the same as Tower's and Great Planes. For larger needs I mix up West epoxy, just too difficult to mix the small amounts at 5 to 1.

I'm sure the new epoxy paste is great but I wonder if it can penetrate the wood like a thinner epoxy would. I guess it's OK since the wood gives up long before the glue does.

Rick

warbirdguy, its well to say just do............, but to be honest, I would NOT want to keep either silicates or milled f/g around, especially if you have kids, and for the convenience of having the thickened varieties handy , I'd be more than happy buy it. By all reports, its simple, easy to use, stronger than needed and also has a warranty. The way I see it, i couldnt ask for more.

gklviking, It would be safe to say that anyone that has kids would not leave silica or milled fibers or glues, knives, building equiptment, guns, nor dangerous items of any type laying around for their kids to get into. Just a touch of comon sense prevails here The method I used works for me. If you build allot, then your gonna spend a ton of money in premixed epoxy. What your buying is exactly what I posted. Some may vary and use aluminum or glass beads, but, its basically the same thing with color agents added to make it more apeasing to the eyes. As for warranties? Name 1 glue company that every replaced an airplane due to a glue failure that cased a crash. I doubt if you or anyone can do that So, your opinion, as mine, are noted and I will say that we do agree on one fact. Do not leave dangerous materials around for kids to play with. Mine are 32 and 21 now, so I guess I did pretty good .

Are you, or any other parent going to tell me thier kids never go into anything they shouldnt have? While I keep my sharps locked away and my adhesives up high out of reach, along with other dangerous goods, I dont see the point in having more goods that can be dangerous to little ones. I have seen what happens when a kid gets a faceful oh milled glass, the poor kid is damaged for life. Does it cost more? yes, but for the simplification and safety issues I am happy to pay a little extra.
Your question re:- warranty what planet are you on? I wouldnt expect any glue manufacturer to replace my plane if it failed, but the warranty is for the replacement of the glues if they go off within the period of you buying them, try that with your epoxy hardeners? I have, no go, and it happens often enough too. and not only epoxies either. And yes, I work f/g for a living.