Nitro Planes Extra 300s 63
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From: Pierrefonds/Montreal,
QC, CANADA
I'm building this Extra 300S that I bought from General Hobby, its the same Chinese made model that is sold by Nitro Planes. I will be building it as an electric. I paid 99$ for the kit. The kit appears to be a good value for the money, but as other have stated, the instructions are extremely poor. I'm pretty handy and have built helicopters and guillows balsa planes before so I'll be ok, but any first time builder that doubts their abilities might have trouble. The instructions have no explanations, poor illustrations that are sometimes misleading, and a huge lack of information. There are pieces in the parts bags that are not mentioned in the instructions so you have to guess where and how they install. I downloaded a manual for a different brand model from Tower Hobbies, and it is very helpful for general information. Most of these planes are probably built in the same city or even factory in China and share a lot of the design and parts.
Here are some things that I have noted so far, if anyone disagrees, I'm open to suggestions.
- you have to figure out for yourself how the linkages for the tail run and which holes they are to pop out of, also the placement of the tail surface horns horns is not explained. (I made one error and had to move the rudder horn after I figured out the correct hole to run the linkage out of.
- The linkages are assembled from metal rods, heat shrink, and wood dowels. Seemed really gay and low tech at first but after I put it together it actually works kinda well and flexes much less than a single piece of metal wire would.
-It does not specify to glue the 2 wing halves together, but i think this is a must and unavoidable. there is an underpan that goes under the wing and completes the underbelly of the plane, this has to be glued onto the wings, so the 2 halves of the wing have to be as one.
- there is a piece of plywood 1" x 3" which is not explained but has to be used as a washer for the wing mounting screws. If you screw the bolts and washers directly onto the balsa wing there is not enough surface area on the round metal washer to resist the torque of the wing in flight. the strip of plywood has to be used in between to spread out the torque of the mounting bolts. The underpan/ belly piece will have to be modified to fit over this plywood.
- The silicone tubing included to keep the clevises closed is too small and brittle, cracks if you try to install.
- The wheel pant & main gear assembly does not work if assembled as illustrated. I had patent something original for it and although not how they intended, I think it will work well.
- I goofed and bent the wire for the tail gear in the wrong direction. You have to bend a little tab in it that will go into the rudder and therefore move with the rudder. This metal cannot be bent twice!!! you have to bend it in a different spot if you goof or else it cracks!!! Luckily I tested the double bending ability on a scrap before trying to correct my error.
More to follow!
Tom
Here are some things that I have noted so far, if anyone disagrees, I'm open to suggestions.
- you have to figure out for yourself how the linkages for the tail run and which holes they are to pop out of, also the placement of the tail surface horns horns is not explained. (I made one error and had to move the rudder horn after I figured out the correct hole to run the linkage out of.
- The linkages are assembled from metal rods, heat shrink, and wood dowels. Seemed really gay and low tech at first but after I put it together it actually works kinda well and flexes much less than a single piece of metal wire would.
-It does not specify to glue the 2 wing halves together, but i think this is a must and unavoidable. there is an underpan that goes under the wing and completes the underbelly of the plane, this has to be glued onto the wings, so the 2 halves of the wing have to be as one.
- there is a piece of plywood 1" x 3" which is not explained but has to be used as a washer for the wing mounting screws. If you screw the bolts and washers directly onto the balsa wing there is not enough surface area on the round metal washer to resist the torque of the wing in flight. the strip of plywood has to be used in between to spread out the torque of the mounting bolts. The underpan/ belly piece will have to be modified to fit over this plywood.
- The silicone tubing included to keep the clevises closed is too small and brittle, cracks if you try to install.
- The wheel pant & main gear assembly does not work if assembled as illustrated. I had patent something original for it and although not how they intended, I think it will work well.
- I goofed and bent the wire for the tail gear in the wrong direction. You have to bend a little tab in it that will go into the rudder and therefore move with the rudder. This metal cannot be bent twice!!! you have to bend it in a different spot if you goof or else it cracks!!! Luckily I tested the double bending ability on a scrap before trying to correct my error.
More to follow!
Tom
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From: Bradenton,
FL
Most all Chinese planes will be the same. If you're a rookie, you're in trouble !! I've built quite a few kits & repaired more than my fair share of "crashed" planes. ( None of them were my fault)!! If ya take your time & don't get in a hurry, most guys will do just fine. Pay attention to ALL glue joints you can see ( I have a dental mirror that I use to see about anywhere in the fus). You can't build a plane as cheap as you can buy an ARF. The main thing to remember, it is an ARF ALMOST READY TO FLY !!!!
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From: St. Joseph,
MO
I have assembled the same plane. I also have one in the box that I need to get around to one of these days. I also have a friend who bought one the same time I got mine. First, He has had great luck with His and still flys it once in a while, I was not so lucky with mine. On the first flight I had the fire wall come apart in flight. Total loss! My fire wall apeared to have glue within a 1/2" of it. Had I went over the plane and checked all the joints I could see, I would have saved the plane and a unsafe situation.
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From: , AUSTRALIA
I was wondering if you could send me any pics you have of the extra?in particular -the control linkages, how you mounted main wing, rudder/wheel and anything else you have photos for.
my email is [email protected]
much appreciated!</p>
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From: Tyler , TX
I goggled my new plane and found some great information on the forums. I just received my General Hobby 300s 63" and man what a awsome assembly manual. As the old forum posts stated, the assembly manual was somewhat useless with not much assembly information. I have been in this great hobby for approximately Six months and love it. If someone may have a more detailed assembly manual that would be willing to share, would be most appreciated.
I currently have a P51 Mustang that I'm learning to fly and flyes great. I did crash it but put her back together and is flying again with no problem.
on another note, there is a guy that want to sell me an older 96" Patty Wagstaff plane that needs a couple servos, batteries, and some TLC. He is asking $800.00 and wanted to know if this was a fare price. Other than the few items noted, the plane is in good shape. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
happy flying to all.<br type="_moz" />
I currently have a P51 Mustang that I'm learning to fly and flyes great. I did crash it but put her back together and is flying again with no problem.
on another note, there is a guy that want to sell me an older 96" Patty Wagstaff plane that needs a couple servos, batteries, and some TLC. He is asking $800.00 and wanted to know if this was a fare price. Other than the few items noted, the plane is in good shape. Thanks in advance for any feedback.
happy flying to all.<br type="_moz" />
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From: Brantford, ON, CANADA
Quote from a previous post
Correction. You can build an airplane properly much cheaper than a poor quality ARF.
Ed S
You can't build a plane as cheap as you can buy an ARF.
Ed S





