Assembly Sequence
#1
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Assembly Sequence
I'm just about ready to cover my Smith Miniplane. At this point I always ask myself: should I go ahead and permanently attach the tail feathers and ailerons and install the radio gearor should I coverbefore attaching and installing? If it makes any difference I had planned to use Koverall and Stix it. Any opinions out there onyour preferred sequence and reasons behind it?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
Thanks in advance,
Dave
#2
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RE: Assembly Sequence
It's all up to you, for koverall, I know it's properties, so attaching the tail feathers before covering, isn't a big deal, koverall shrinks alot, but for a first time job with it, I recommend covering them seperate and then attaching them after. If you've workked with koverall before, then go ahead and attach the tail feathers and cover it as an assembly. just becareful of warping the structure from the shrinking.
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RE: Assembly Sequence
I also use koverall with stix-it. I cover the feathers first then do the final assembly. I use minwax polycrilic to seal the koverall. What do you use? I paint with paint from thr auto parts store. Its very hard.
#5
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RE: Assembly Sequence
In the past I have always used dope and paint. Then Idiscovered monokote. I finally got sick of the plastic look. I would love to do the polycylic seal method. What paint do you use over the poly?
#6
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RE: Assembly Sequence
ORIGINAL: TCraft Lover
I'm just about ready to cover my Smith Miniplane. At this point I always ask myself: should I go ahead and permanently attach the tail feathers and ailerons and install the radio gear or should I cover before attaching and installing? If it makes any difference I had planned to use Koverall and Stix it. Any opinions out there on your preferred sequence and reasons behind it?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
I'm just about ready to cover my Smith Miniplane. At this point I always ask myself: should I go ahead and permanently attach the tail feathers and ailerons and install the radio gear or should I cover before attaching and installing? If it makes any difference I had planned to use Koverall and Stix it. Any opinions out there on your preferred sequence and reasons behind it?
Thanks in advance,
Dave
I wonder if this will go.
Zor
EDITING
Hoping the following will go with the above.
You may have a look at my Skybolt pictures in th thread "Skybolt hangar".
The fuselage and tails are covered with nylon fabric.
The wings with polyester.
The fabric is 0.005" thick at 80 threads per inch giving a transparency of 60%.
I covered the tail surfaces separately but the tail surfaces are bolted; they are not cemented.
I figure it is easier to do repair separately for the tail surfaces and if repair is needed on the rear fuselage it is easier if the tail sufaces are not there.
Regards de Zor
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RE: Assembly Sequence
I used a paint that my local auto parts store mixed for me. It is an enamel. I know very little about paint. Like what will blend with what, or what causes problems with what. I read every thread that says anything about paint. And I pretty much stay confused. For every guy that says a certain method is foolproof, there is another guy saying he has the "right way".
What I do know is the auto store mix I bought is high gloss and fuel proof (glow). I did not have to use a clearcoat. But it may have made it harder and higher gloss. Clearcoat is very expensive. You do not buy it just to experiment with unless 100 bucks doesnt matter to you.
I personally like a metal flake look. And the store had many colors they could mix with that. I will be painting my second model as soon as it warms up a little more. I do know paint will not cure correctly when the temp is 50 for a high and 30's for lows.
You know, its amazing to me how many Canadians I see here in RCU. I figured this hobby would do alot better in the south where we get a long summer and little snow. Its cool to talk with you guys. Someday, I have to come for a long visit to your country. I do love to camp and fish. I bet you guys have some beautiful scenery at your club fields.
Andrew, I am on my way to check out your thread. I have a Tiger 60 build thread in work here as well. Check with ya later dudes.
What I do know is the auto store mix I bought is high gloss and fuel proof (glow). I did not have to use a clearcoat. But it may have made it harder and higher gloss. Clearcoat is very expensive. You do not buy it just to experiment with unless 100 bucks doesnt matter to you.
I personally like a metal flake look. And the store had many colors they could mix with that. I will be painting my second model as soon as it warms up a little more. I do know paint will not cure correctly when the temp is 50 for a high and 30's for lows.
You know, its amazing to me how many Canadians I see here in RCU. I figured this hobby would do alot better in the south where we get a long summer and little snow. Its cool to talk with you guys. Someday, I have to come for a long visit to your country. I do love to camp and fish. I bet you guys have some beautiful scenery at your club fields.
Andrew, I am on my way to check out your thread. I have a Tiger 60 build thread in work here as well. Check with ya later dudes.
#9
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RE: Assembly Sequence
ANDREW....I cannot find your build thread. Could you give us the title or a link please? Iam looking for a plane to build for my step-son, Andrew. He is 19 and does not have time to build himself but he loves to come to the field with me.
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RE: Assembly Sequence
Here is a link to a build site that gave me all of my technique. It is a build by a guy named Tom Pierce. This model took him 2 years. 99% of us will not go into the detail Tom has. But his covering and paint technique work. Check it out. I bet you will all be as amazed as I am.
http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/index.htm
http://www.tompierce.net/SBD/index.htm