&lt;meta content="text/html; charset=utf-8" http-equiv="Content-Type" />&lt;meta content="Word.Document" name="ProgId" />&lt;meta content="Microsoft Word 9" name="Generator" />&lt;meta content="Microsoft Word 9" name="Originator" />&lt;link href="file:///C:/DOCUME~1/TONYLE~1/LOCALS~1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml" rel="File-List" /><![if gte mso 9]><xml><w:WordDocument><w:View>Normal</w:View><w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom><woNotOptimizeForBrowser /></w:WordDocument></xml><![endif]><style type="text/css"><! Style Definitions */p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";}@page Section1 {size:8.5in 11.0in; margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-paper-source:0;}div.Section1 {page:Section1;}></style><p class="MsoNormal">Hi all, I am new to model building and just started my first kit. I am just figuring out the deferent types of glue that are being used. I am familiar with the 5 min epoxies and I use this when I need time to get things all set up. The gap filling glue I am using is a 5-15 sec insta-cure+ and the other is an extra thick 10-25 sec Maxi-cure. The first thing I learned is that I can clue my fingers together, I learned that right out of the box. My question is what glue to use for what application. If I am building a tail assembly, mostly balsa stock (soft wood). Should I be using thin glue that soaks into the wood creating the welding bond? And is the thicker glue mainly used to fuse wood along the exterior joint's VS the end butt joints. Then there is the spray, what are these quick drying sprays used for?</p><p class="MsoNormal"><![if !supportEmptyParas]><![endif]><o></o></p><p class="MsoNormal">Any information would be great; meanwhile I am going on the trial by error.</p><p class="MsoNormal"><![if !supportEmptyParas]><![endif]><o></o></p><p class="MsoNormal">Thanks</p><p class="MsoNormal"><![if !supportEmptyParas]><![endif]><o></o></p><p class="MsoNormal">TB</p>

I like to build primarily with yellow wood glue because it gives you plenty of time to work and it doesn't irritate my lungs. I limit my CA use to places where I can't easily clamp something and I need an instant hold. I use thin CA to strengthen threads in wood, and for CA hinges.

I use 30 minute epoxy for structural items like firewalls, landing gear blocks, joining wing halves, and stabilizer attachment, usually all with tri-stock.

I don't use 5 minute epoxy for anything. I used to use it for repairs at the field, but I quit making repairs at the field.

I use mainly Robart hinges, and I glue them in with Pacer hinge glue.

I use canopy glue for canopies.

Good luck and enjoy your build.

Oh, to answer your original question, if you are framing with CA, you probably want to use the medium. The instructions for the kit might tell you what is recommended for specific steps.

The spray is a kicker that makes the glue harden as soon as it hits it. If you have something pinned in place, you really don't need the kicker. Just let it dry. Kicker can be handy if you are holding something together and want to let go. Just make sure your fingers aren't glued.

There will be a lot of different ways you can go and a lot of opinions, here's mine:

- You may want to consider yellow wood glue for general construction; although this will slow down your build, my opinion is that the health hazards of CA are not worth it. Do a search on CA glue and its potential health hazards. If you choose to continue using CA, make sure you use proper ventilation and stay away from the fumes - awareness of the risks will be your long-term friend. I only use CA when I am trying to harden balsa in different spots, for example hardening threads in the wood.
- For areas where there is a lot of stress (e.g. firewall, when joining wing halves or elevator/rudder assemblies, etc.) use Epoxy.
- Not sure what spray you are referring to, but if you are talking about something like the 3M spray some use them to hold the fiberglass cloth in place while they apply glue on it (e.g. when joining wing halves.) You may want to be more specific about this type of glue to get better feedback.

Welcome to the hobby!

I use medium CA for most of my building (Avoid the fumes as others have said).

The only time I use wood glue (Tightbond, Elmers, etc) is to keep down the use of expensive CA on large area that require a lot of glue. So put a few drops of CA to act as "pins" or "clamps" and cover the rest with wood glue so I can keep building while the glue is drying.

Thin CA for hardening holes and for CA hinges (Use ONLY THIN CA for CA hinges)

And 30-Minute epoxy for all epoxy needs

Tony, for more basics on Kit building, read this article I wrote:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=1196]Kit Building 101[/link]

Don't I know it. I used the kicker once while I had CA on my fingers and boy does that stuff burn.

I mainly use Titebond wood glue for the main construction. I use medium or thin CA to reinforce formers or to hold sheeting down at the edges or for other areas I want a quick dry. I use thin CA for CA hinges and epoxy for pinned hinges. And I use 30-minute epoxy (NEVER 5-minute) for the landing gear blocks, joining wing halves, attaching tailfeathers, firewalls, fuel-proofing, and other high-stress areas.

The kicker doesn't burn, but when you "kick" CA, the fast cure causes the CA to get HOT

And if you use CA to hold a pushrod tube at a fuselage penetration and spray the CA, it will sometimes melt the plastic tube.

I do pretty much what MinnFlyer said, except that I use thin CyA when gluing balsa pieces that fit together very tightly. Any gap at all and it's medium. I'm allergic to the fumes, so I use the odorless version, which solves that problem but is very expensive.

In the past I have had problems with carpenter's glue and vibration, so I don't use it for things like gluing the stabilizer on. The newer versions like Titebond II or III may be better, and even the old stuff is fine for things like doublers.

I use thin and medium CA on everything in all my builds.

Bob

Thanks for all the helpful information. I now have a greater understanding of the glue types. Still I managed to glue my finger to my kit, practice will help eliminate this somewhat

As I like to say, "I always put a little bit of myself in every kit I build"

Of course, that "Little Bit" is usually a piece of skin

I leave a few bloodstains in my models. I consider it a DNA tag in case there is ever an ownership dispute.

Not that anyone would fight me for any of my ragged planes.