<div>Hey all, just a quick question. I am building my first plane, and I wanted to ask about hinges. I see that there are a few choices, but mostly I see these CA fiber hinges that come with most models. I tend to be more mechanical and like actual hinges, just a detail thing. So what hinge method is best for performance and durability?</div><div></div><div>Thanks</div><div></div><div>TB</div><div></div>

If you want a "real" hinge and more real-looking hinge, go with Robarts.

CA hinges are great and easy to install, but some specific instructions must be followed to prevent failure.

1. Cut the slot with one pass of a #11 blade.
2. Use only one hinge per location - never double.
3. Use only thin CA - never thick and never epoxy.

* Cut the slot and slide the hinge in about halfway.
* Slide the control surface on and position it against the stationary piece. Flex it the maximum amount of expected travel for the proper hinge line gap.
* Flex the surface in one direction and apply 2-3 drops of CA to each hinge - don't flood it. Let that dry a little then flex the surface the other way and apply 2-3 drops on the other side. If the CA puddles after a couple of seconds, blot with a paper towel. If it looks too dry, apply 1 more drop per side. Trust me, you do NOT need more CA.
* Let dry fully, then flex both ways a few times. The wood will pull out before the hinge fails.

If you want something other than CA hinges, I would also recommend Robart Hinge Points.

Be sure to buy the drill guide for installing them.

CB Associates make a nice product! Their hing has brass sleves and pivote and they are VERY strong!
http://www.mecoa.com/cb/horns.htm

I like Robarts as well, as long as you are working with thick enough control surfaces. Some planes use 3/16" flat sheet for their stabilizers, rudders and elevators. I mostly use 1/8" hinge points, which would leave very little material on either side of the hinge. There are smaller hinge points, but for smaller surfaces, I just go with CA hinges.

In addition to using the Robart drill jig to make your holes, I also like to use a 1/4" round file, run across the leading edge of the control surface, to create a pocket for the hinge. I used to try and make a countersink with a phillips screw driver, but that didn't give me very tight hinge lines.

Also, if you are hinging a stick-built surface, you want to make sure that you have at least 2 ridges of the hinge within the wood. If not, just add little blocks of balsa behind the hinge to give the hinge something to bite into.

Good luck

CB Associates make some nice hinges!
http://www.mecoa.com/cb/horns.htm

I built a new plane and used the supplied ca hinges, followed the instructions and thought all was fine. During the first flight, one of the other pilots said that he could hear some flutter. I landed and inspected the plane. Found 2 of 4 ca hinges had torn on the right aileron, 3 of 4 on the elevator had torn. I have not used them again. I use the dubro medium size hinges and instead of any glue, use sewing needles pushed through the control surface and the hinge, have never had one fail or separate and if a repair is needed, just pull the pins out and do the repair.
dan

Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've never had a problem with CA hinges. I do it exactly like Dr1driver explains, cheap, simple & strong! Although, I'm not a real aggressive pilot, they've worked for me.

I use either the Dubro flat hinges or the hinge points depending on the plane and how thick the surfaces are. Hinge points I always add wood behind them for added grip.

I've seen CA hinges fail in flight, and it was usually to improper installation.

I've used them on competition fun fly planes, pylon racers, and even a giant Stinger (the 1/4 scale type) with no problems.

I've seen regular hinges fail in flight too. They're a lot harder to install than CA hinges and really require a lot more work.

I've used CA hinges on all kinds of planes...from .15 size control line to 1.20 powered aerobatic bipes...without incident.

Nothing wrong at all with CA hinges.

What kit is this first plane? A lot of trailing edges are of such small proportion that there's really no room for mechanical hinges.

If the trailing edge is like an 1/8th inch thick, there won't be much left after you cut out for your hinge.

I too don't like ca hinges. I have used them on various planes with mixed results. I usually use the flat dubro hinges on 40-60 size planes and hinge points on anything bigger. Withthe flat ones I punched the holes bigger, to 1/8", six holes and I use 30 minute epoxy and gorrilla glue. Both glues are very strong. I did a test once where I glued the punched flat nylon pinned hinge into pine with 30 minute epoxy and I tried to rip the hinge out with pliers. The hinge separated, only the pin and the half of the hinge that was grabbed by the pliers went the other half stayed glued in the wood, and I REALLY pulled HARD with the pliers. The control surface would NEVER rip out. I have planes 3 years old done like this with no problems. I feel safe...

What Drill Guide?

Robart

Here's a link to that tool - http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...E+hinges+point

<div>I am building a Goldberg Super Chipmunk. Although I am just learning to fly (on a trainer) I wanted to get some building experience and have a goal to work towards as my training progresses. Really, this is a learning experience for my next build.</div><div></div><div>TB</div>

Eventhough using the guide helps, be sure to mark where you want your hole drilled with a pin or something acurate and double check that the mark/hole is centered in the drill guide. Easy to make an oops... These hinges are strong and the don't like to be off center from one another.