MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

BTW, you should also make sure the canopy is CLEAN before you start.

Was it with a good dish soap and do not touch it with your hands afterward. Hold it with a paper towel as you dry it and place it in the warm dye

Red_Jeepster

Yep, I did all that. Washed completely, Hot water in the dye, left to soak for 24 hours even. I even tried the trick the next day of adding vinegar to the mix. I read that somewhere, too.
I guess I'll grab up another box of dye and have another go of it. I am a persistant fellow!

n7188u

I had the same difficulty with my US60 and RIT dye. I always died my canopies but this one, although it did take some color, it wasn't close to what I could do in the past. Just left it longer and lived with what I got.

Chris

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Weird. I guess I'll plan on painting my next one again

arrdee

Try the liquid Rit. Use it straight, dye just the inside. I dye mine befor trimming off the flashing stuff .
Arrdee
USB #109

box car

Her are a few pictures of my home made mufflers for my ST G-90's on my twin US60.

Roary m

My Feedback: (67)

Too bad ST doesn't make a rear exhaust design; I still have some of the old X61's and they ran very well. Actually, 'X' reffered to the port design, not the direction of the exhaust although most of the X designs were rear.

Red_Jeepster

Looks like those exhausts weigh a ton! What is the actual weight?

box car

Same weight as the stock muffler. My muffler is made from schedule 10 aluminum pipe.

corch

My Feedback: (1)

Just got off the phone with my LHS....I ordered a 40 and 60 size Ultra Sport.  The 40 size will be my first kit[X(]

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Cool! The US is not the best first kit, (only due to the nose and wingtip carving) but it's far from the worst!

You can cut down on the wintip sanding by doing what I do: First, skip what they say about hollowing them out, it's not worth the trouble. Second, rather than sand them round, I just round the edges so the tips are flat on the outside (I think it looks better like that anyway)

Also, if you haven't been following along... A very good mod is to move the gear out by one rib bay. It makes for a wider stance and better ground handling.

Another good mod is to cut about 1/3 of the inboard ailerons and use them for flaps. (On the 60-size they have you cut about 4" off the OUTboard side of the ailerons and glue them to the Trailing Edge - If you go with flaps, skip that step and run the ailerons out to the wingtips like on the 40)

Do328jet

My Feedback: (2)

Tower Hobby and Omni show the Ultra Sport 40 kit in stock. You can have one in time for Christmas!

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Cool! The 40 is back! They must have done another run of them!!!

Red_Jeepster

Hey Minn, Without having gone back thru the 48 other pages of this thread, I am looking for a quick opinion on the US40.
Does it still have room for my Dave Brown mech retracts?
Also, do you move them out 1 bay like on the 60?

I did all that to my US60, but never built a 40 yet.
Who is the better Foam wing supplier for the US60?

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

Wouldn't it be nice if they (Great Planes) would let us know? They do show the Slo-Poke as back by popular demand.
And the Dazzler is back in stock by January!

John

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Yes on both questions.

I don't know of anyplace to get a foam wing. I'm contemplating cutting my own for my next 60

corch

My Feedback: (1)

Tower and Advantage Hobby (the two sites Iuse) you can set up email notifications. If you notice a particular item is back ordered or "coming soon" or out of stock or "by early Dec" place it in your cart. The website will then ask if you want an email notification to when the product is in stock. When I checked my email yesterday morning, both sites had emailed me to let me know the US 40 was in stock. Then it was just a matter of waiting for the LHS to open at 10am and making a phone call to order them for me (match's tower price, no shipping, plus a 15% discount for club members on most items). I'll get them both next week, and simply haul them to the basement of the hobby shop where our club has a build/assemble/repair area.

However, IDID notice that Tower kept jacking up the price of the US 40 kit from $99 when they announced it was "coming soon" to $119 when it was in stock. Guess they had to make up for the "special" offer codes.

Where and what do you fly John? We're practically neighbors!

box car

I got mine from Eureka Aircraft.
Ken

Roary m

My Feedback: (67)

I need to score another 60 size kit. What's this moving the retract gear out 1 bay? Is that for tail dragger setups?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

It's for either really, it just gives it a wider stance which makes it more stable on the ground (Less chance of tipping and scraping a wingtip - especially when you turn)

If you use retracts, it also allows for a slightly longer gear strut.

blueapplepaste

My Feedback: (5)

Just saw that Tower has the 40 kits again - VERY cool!! I have an unbuilt 60 kit, thinking I probably need an unbuilt 40 kit! HOping to build the 60 over this upcoming spring/summer. Will be doing full out flaps and retracts and also electric conversion on it as well.

Roary m

My Feedback: (67)

Ah yes, clearing the prop. I never paid attention to that; When Mr Feldmann made his prototypes, one was a taildragger run by, I think, an Enya 90, and his commentary was on the speed of the ship.

Red_Jeepster

THanks Minnflyer - I am still thinking of built up wing, but since Ken (Box Car) gave us the info on Eureka, I will check them out. Either way, I prefer fully sheeted wings.
If I do go with the foam wing, then I'll stick some build pics as I go along.

Top_Gunn

My Feedback: (6)

A question about joining the wing halves. Both the US 40 and the US 60 have all the dihedral in the bottom of the wing: the top of the wing is flat. So is there any reason to follow the kit directions to join the halves right-side-up with the tips blocked up? Why not just join them with the halves upside-down and flat on the board? (I'm building my first 60, with flaps and fully sheeted wings, as suggested by posts on this thread. )

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I think the only reason for blocking up the tips is so you can adjust it a little to get the center joint closed. If you get good closier with the wing inverted and flat, go for it