I am building a 40 size. I epoxed my horizonal stab on thinking it was level with the wing. It is a quarter inch off. A quarter too low on one side and a quarter to high on the other. To remove it I would have to tear it up basically. I thought about srinking the covering more on one side than the other to pull it into shape but the stab is so small it would take some tight covering to do that. What about a small weight on one side and lift the other side and wet the balsa?? The way it is now may or maynot affect the flight but the other flyers at my field would really not let me by on this one without alot of remarks and kidding...Any suggestions??

Sounds like you would need to twist the fuselage instead to get the stab angle changed. Though, you don't state which airplane you are building, so that may not apply. You can possibly shim up the wing on one side instead.

Here's a thought for you.
In fine woodworking we use a "Japanese pull saw" to make very fine cuts the blades from 7" to 15", 7 tpi to24 tpi very flexible, long and extremely sharp with no kerf. They can be found online or at a local Home Depot or Lowe's.
You might be able to very carefully cut the glue lines then level you stab before re-gluing.

I've done that before. Be VERY carefull when doing it & you can save the covering. I used masking tape on each side of the fuselage & lucked out. Then like AviationNut said, shim up one side. Good luck

The cut off saw is a good idea, I got mine at Harbor freight. Sometimes you can soften the epoxy with a heat gun enough to move things. Heat will soften it up pretty good but it's tough on covering, that may be a loss?

A heat gun will easily soften the epoxy but like GB says the covering will be trash. Cut some of the covering off from the area adjacent to the stab, straighten the stab out and then patch the covering back.
This is one of the troubles with ARF's. A kit build would have everything installed and straight before the covering process starts. I've used a heat gun to completely remove things that have been epoxied on and needed to be corrected. Like I say with a kit it's no big deal but with a BARF you'll just have to deal with it the best ya can.

When I glue on a horizontal stab I go thru a process that never fails to be dead on.
I set up my fuse on my glass table top with the wing bolted on and propped up by equal lengths of 1/4" X 1/4" balsa CA'd to my glass table top under each wing tip. I then set the wing incidence by leveling the the stab seat. Then I cut another set of balsa sticks the same length as the seat is off from the table. These are also CA'd to the table top at each end of the stab. Then glue the stab on, let it set till the glue sets and it will be dead on. This whole process takes maybe 30 minutes but the end result is worth it.