RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

PM sent. I learned something new, I didn't know Jacobs was in Pottstown, only 20 mi from where I live. Thank you John.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

raptureboy,

The Jacobs engine were made in Pottstown but after the War the became part of Republic Industries and I do not know if and where they are made now.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

John's photo docs are terrific, and priced exceedingly well. I purchased his set on the Cessna 195, and it proved to be an excellent resource material.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

This built but not finished kit that I bought has a few issues that I'm looking for help with. The wing was built with the bell-crank and pushrod system and it looks like older servos in mind. The two pushrod ends are offset to one side of the servo cutout and are about 3/4" apart when the ailerons are neutral. A modern servo doesn't match up and won't fit in the cavity. Suggestion? The torque rods for the flaps are not even when the flap panels are full up. there isn't much to grab onto to try and bend them and it's pretty heavy wire. Suggestions? The elevator pushrod exit hole doesn't line up with the horn on the elevator rod. The joint on the horn seems solid, but the wire is small and the whole plane is many unknown years so I'm not sure I can trust it. I'd have to cut the nylon elevator and rudder hinges to remove and replace the parts. I'm still trying to figure out if i can add a brace to the landing gear or if I need to. Have others had issues with the gear bending more than expected? Also what wheels have people used? I picked up some Du-Bro 3-1/2" wheels but I'll have to drill out the centers to get to 3/1"' dia wire and there won't be much hub left. The hobby shop has some nice Robart wheels with different size bushings for the hub that are a little more expensive but would look nice.

It will be a fun project but with the added challenge of going through another persons work.

Jaybird

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Jay have you considered abandoning the bellcranks and adding individual servos in each bay? It can be done pretty easily from the bottom with minimal recovering.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

No, I hadn't thoguht about that as a retrofit. A quick look though shows that there aren't any holes in the ribs to run the servo wires through (there aren't any holes in the servo bay anyway) and the bottom has the checkerboard covering which will be a challenge to cut and replace. I'll keep it in mind though.

Thanks for the help!

Jaybird

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Jay I just bought my wheels a few days ago, I ran into the same problem. The solution was to buy the 3-1/2" Sullivan SkyLight wheels which already have the 3/16"hub the correct size and can be drilled for an even larger opening if need be. I can give you the part # when I get home. With a dremel tool or hand file just open up the elevator opening to make fit that's an easy fix, the others not so easy...

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

I saw the Sullivan Lite wheels at the hobby shop yesterday, but they are twice the price of the Robart wheels. The Robart wheels also come with hub covers in a flat and spoked version. I think I'll take the Du-Bro wheels back and trade up to the Robart's which are just a few dollars more but less than the Sullivan's.

Jaybird

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

OK I'm back and this is my cleaned up second version of strut attatchment. Let me first start off by saying that I spent so much time on deciding what would bethe best route to take, I studied all the photos that I could find, some that were kindly posted by some of you.

The strut was carefully fitted to the fuse and wing contourthen eachend of was filled with JB Kwikweld Epoxy. The top was drilled for a 2-56 x 3/4" bolt that is anchored to the inside of the fuse with a 2-56 blind nut. If you remember in the early stages of this thread I had reinforced the toparea for the strut with some Basswood in anticipation for possible strut attatchment. Glad I did it because it was right where I needed it. The bottom I decided to go with a very low profile bracket that does not need to be anchored to the strut at all. For me it's perfect because installing the strut is a snap and the bracket aides more of an alignment fixture if anything. (If need be I will imbed a small magent in the wing and the underside of the strut.) The bracket will be epoxied to the top of the covered wing. Well it works for me and God knows I did put my best foot forward this time....

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

This setup certainly looks clean. Quick clarifying question, do Iunderstand it correctly that the wing end of the strut floats in the bracket, i.e. there is no physical attachment?You mentioned adding a magnet at that end if needed. If that's the case, is the assumption that the wing will not have any up/down flex to it due to the functional flying wires so there's no danger of the strut working it's way out of the bracket and gouging the wing?

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Tim, yes the bottom is free floating. The bracket aides not only in proper alignment but will stop any abrasion between the covering of the wing and strut over time. Flying wires will minimize the wing deflection, but because the strut is so close to the center of the wingany movement at that point would be very minimal. My only concern will be any engine vibration which is why my back-up will be the magnet if necessary.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

That is much better Vincent. Bravo!

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

How about drilling through the brace from the top and into the bracket and then tapping the bracket for a machince screw? I would cut out the covering before gluing the bracket on though. I like the clean looks of this setup you did a good job.http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f.../thumbs_up.gif

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

jaybird, as James Brown would say," ya got ta deal with it" http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...sn/biggrin.gifTime for some creative arf bashing skills, I think the servos in the wing would be best and you could patch in the monokote with some self adhesive trim where you cut the hatchs in. I think there are holes through all the ribs except at the root ends but you could dremel some holes there. Go back near the begining of this thread to get an idea of what the ribs look like. If you had to recover the bottom of the wing it wouldn't be the worse thing you have to do. Buck up me matey and all that good stuffhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...eeth_smile.gif

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Thumbs up on the strut Mod, looks much better & cleaner. Good idea and nice execution......

~Dave

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

At last both struts have been completed and installed. I took a photo of the blind nut on the inside of the fuse, this is where the upper strut bolt joins the two together. Also visible in this photo are the two bolts (2-56) that hold the upper bracket flying wires. By attatching the bracket with bolts it will allow me to remove it easily should it get damaged. Second photo shows the cured JB Weld on strut end.

My original intent was to use Solartex to cover the entireplane. Instead I will be using it on the wing and tail feathers only,the fuse will not be covered using this product. I have decided to glass the fuse, it will be more work but it will better simulate the metal covering that the full scale planes had. I willalso include rivet and panel lines. I have never glassed anything this large so it will be a learningexperience for me.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Looking really good VJ,
How do you plan on simulating the rivets? On previous builds I have used white glue drops from a syringe. On my next build I plan on trying to use rivets punched from aluminum cans. They look much more scale than glue rivets. They are not difficult to make and you set them into the primer coat with a soldering iron.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Thanks Anthony, I bought a syringe with a curved tip and was planning on using Titebond glue, but you have me interested on the method using aluminum cans....

The last bit of buildingthat's left isadding the landing gear flying wires. But now I'm going to concentrate on finishing the fuselage first which means tons of sanding in preparation for the glass. Before I dismantle everythingI thought it appropriate to get a couple of photos with everything together.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Anthony, VJ,

The rivets along the fuselage spine between the cockpit and vertical fin are flush (see P1) as are most of the other fuselage rivets . Shallow domed rivets (low profile round head) are used on the wing center section on the top and bottom. The visible fasteners that are used appear to be Phillips Flat head screws or Dzus ¼ turn fasteners. At least on N48587

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

VJ,
To make the rivets from aluminum you just need a piece of music wire the dia. of the rivet you want to make. For flush rivets you want a flat cut on the end of the wire and for domed rivets you want to grind a slight radius on the end. You want to cut an aluminum can open and lay it out flat over a piece of hard rubber and use a hammer to stamp out the rivets from the aluminum. You will want to hit on the painted side of the aluminum as to keep the non-painted side to the finished side of the rivet. You then just lay the rivets into position on the primed surface and touch them with a soldering iron to set them into the surface. After final painting the rivets are locked into position for good.
I have seen pics of a couple of models with these rivets and they look really good. You are able to keep the rivets to the proper size which is really difficult with glue drops.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Thanks for the heads up John, I will be sure to do my homework when the time comes.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

The Ryan is really taking shape.  Impressive build!  Shouldn't be long until covering time!

SunDevilPilot

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Vincent, have you ever used flite metal directly over balsa. It works great.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

No I haven't but I've always wanted to try it.

RE: Sig Ryan STA
 

Give the balsa a light coat of WB poly, a light sanding to knock off the fussies and attach the flite metal.