Monocoat vs tissue paper
 

Tissue paper vs monocoat. Is it possible to use monocoat in stead of tissue paper on a plane with stringers and spars and ribs? I know it can be used on models with sheets of balsa making up the airframe but what about one with stringers and runners and spars and ribs?

You can’t control shrinkage with a heat shrink plastic so there’s a chance it’ll ruin (crush) the structure.

A proper tissue covering will add far more strength to the structure than plastic (and look far better IMO).

If you decide to use Monocote. Think about using the transparent version. It is much lighter and easier to use in delicate situation.

David

I've used it for many, many models like that - but haven't done ones that are really small. Usually .25 glow sized and bigger. All depends on how robust the framework is. With typical 1/8th or larger stringers/ribs , no issues....
It is heavier than tissue, which is a big consideration for small planes.

hangar 9 makes a light weight covering called parklite. it is a much lighter version of their ultracote. i believe monocote makes a liter version also

here is a picture of Pat Tritles Dumas dragonfly covered with parklite
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...ccf91c88c5.jpg
the table is 2' by 4' plane has some 1/16 stringers and i swapped some spruce in a couple areas
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rcu...27a15478b5.jpg
finished plane

should proofread my typing

This statement couldn’t be further from the truth!

Bob

Refers to torsional rigidity, not puncture resistance.

Wrong, the tensile strength of Monokote is 25000 psi.The tensile strength on tissue and dope isn’t anywhere in the vicinity of that. I just don’t want the unknowing to get the wrong ideas.

Bob

In order to benefit from the tensile strength of Monokote you need to shrink it tight on the structure. I have yet to see a delicate stringer model structure that can withstand this without crumbling into bits.
That’s why the lighter and thinner options are now available, but the original topic referred to ‘Monokote’.
I just don’t want the unknowing to ruin a model they built.

In order to benefit from the strength of Monokote, or any shrinkable plastic covering now that you have brought the availability of other lighter and thinner covering systems into it, one only needs to actually iron to the structure, shrinking is a secondary operation that may or may not be needed depending on your skill level of application in the first place. The title still is Monokote Versus Tissue, your response was tissue is stronger than Monokote anyway. That is wrong no matter how you try to spin it, it’s far weaker in both puncture or tensile strengths.

Bob

Not knowing the size airplane the OP is dealing with pretty much makes many points moot. I imagine that a small 20" FF model being covered in Monokote would be a mistake however something like a Kadet Sr. Would be just fine and I would point out has been done hundreds of times.

Kadet sr
 

How big is a Kadet Sr.?

Conversion
 

I'm thinking about doing an RC conversion but I don't think I want to build several planes as part of the process. I don't get a lot of support from home to do this hobby. I would rather cut to the chase. Is the Kadet Sr. Readily convertible for RC?

Impractical
 

I hate to say it but I think it is impractical because I don't have a place to leave the project set up to keep working on it for days or weeks and the environment is not conducive to an ongoing project plus I don't have the money to buy the kit and the parts anime modification materials and the tools and supplies and everything also I have Parkinson's disease and throwing that kind of delicate work is almost impossible I wish I did it when I was younger but I don't think it's possible at this stage of my life

40 years ago I built a Sig Kadet Jr all covered with Monokote, the Jr was a small airplane with an Enya .15 in it, also built several Baby Birdy’s back then with Cox 051s that were tiny airplanes all covered with Monokote. Anyway take size out of it, the statement was made that tissue covering was stronger than Monokote, it is not, in any shape, form or fashion, that’s all I’m saying.

Bob

I fully agree with sensei... a film covered model is far stronger when done correctly then silkspan/tissue. Many factors to consider if you really get down to it, but a well built structure skillfully covered with Monokote or the correct film won't just "crush" from the shrinkage of the film.

Monokote and Ultrakote are geared toward larger frames, depending on structure, maybe 30" wingspan and up.., and not so much mini and micro models though...partly due to weight, as well as shrinkage... but there are other products, as mentioned Parklite is a nice film for smaller models, where shrinkage and tension isn't necessarily wanted or needed... yet obviously serve the intended purpose. I built a few of the StevensAero micros and used Parklite with good results.

Many of us have experience with the old days of silkspan/tissue, and then moved on to Monokote and other films... and yes.. silkspan/dope when applied correctly actually does have quite a bit of strength, but try to punch a finger through Monokote, and do the same with silkspan, and you'll see the difference immediately.

obrien, film covering(Monokote, Ultrakote, Parklite, etc..) are far less invasive and FAR LESS labor intense then silkspan/tissue. All that's really needed to apply film covering is an iron, a decent pair of scissors, an X-Acto knife, and maybe a ruler. You really don't need an actual Monokote/film iron although they're cheap and easier to use. Many of us(definitely me), used our clothes irons when covering irons weren't mainstream... and they work just as well when you get the knack of it.

Tissue for the most part takes dope and thinner, brushes, a bit of sandpaper, scissors, maybe a ruler, etc...Then you have to paint the tissue and finish it in some way(usually).. and it can be labor intense, and the chemicals can be toxic, and some people are sensitive to that very smell(some of us like it too)..., as well as the paints can be messy if a person doesn't have alot of experience or isn't set up to handle such things. There's just alot of prep and labor compared to tissue.

A small model covered in Parklite is about the least invasive and least labor intense you can get if you're wanting to build and cover something.

Building and covering is a great way to enjoy the hobby, but it does take some planning and definitely takes some time(that's why they call it a "hobby")... Just keep studying it.. maybe it will work for you, or maybe you'll find other aspects of the hobby along the road to enjoy as well. Good luck with it.

Saran wrap
 

I used saran wrap on a scratch built plane because I didn't have the money to buy monocoat or tissue paper. It didn't fly too well. Is saran wrap heavier than monocoat or tissue paper?

That's creative right there. As for weight, I would say Saran is probably a fuzz ligther, but not much. It's fifty fifty as to why your project didn't fly, but it was probably because the saran wasn't tight.. Monokote, and any type of lightweight film does shrink tight though. I'm not sure how tight you got your saran wrap, but if it wasn't tight, therein might be the problem. A wing needs a stable tight surface to perform and fly on..... and I'm not seeing saran wrap as stable and tight like an iron-on film is when applied with an iron and heat.

There's probably other materials that can be used if your clever and creative. We've seen many things done in this hobby that aren't quite "conventional". I know a guy that used silk/fabric from the fabric store, and did a wonderful job, although that's definitely heavy.. but it worked. He apparently did it using a similar technique that full-scale airplanes use, but again it was very heavy... but it did fly.

Brown paper can be used as well, treated with some coating of some sort.. like a mache' coating. With these other types of materials though, the performance can lacking because of weight and other factors. It all depends, on many things of course. Someone that's crafty, and wants to fly on a budget can find all sorts of ways. Again they might not perform like a mainstream kit-built(or custom built) model... but for some it's more about the "craft of the hobby"... then it is about being the bestest with the greatest newest fanciest plane. I'm all for creativity... as long as you enjoy it, or even just enjoy pondering ideas and dreaming, that's all good.