Sig 4*60 build.
 

Hello,

I started my 4*60 today and it quite a fast build so far. My build time is hit and miss so this might take a little while or then again maybe it won't. I plan on a few mods. I am going to enlarge the Elevator/Rudder, replace the tail-wheel with another brand (possibly SIG as it looks nice and sturdy plus it comes complete with an attached wheel), sheet over the stringers on the turtle deck, Dubro axles, a Fiberglass Specialties cowl, use a Saito 100 and try
UltraCote for the first time. If anyone can think of any must do mods, please post them.

Here's a look at the progress so far.

Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Looking good so far. The elevators are fine, no need to enlarge them. On the rudder, start out with it about .75 or 1 inch larger at the top and 1.75 or 2 inches larger at the base. You might also want to turn the canopy and cut it down, looks more like a real plane that way.

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Not sure if you've seen this one yet, lots of good advise&tips here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_30...tm.htm#3070885

Looking forward to following along with your build, and good luck!

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Lookin good Gene. Do a search on 4*60 mods and you'll find plenty of good info, particularly on reinforcing the fuse section behind the wings, enlarging the rudder, larger fuel tank, replacing the stock LG and tailwheel, and color schemes. Enjoy your build !

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

I got a little further today. This build might go a little slow, but it will get done.

Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Hi Gene,
Actually the plane builds really fast. I was surrised at how fast mine went together and I made a lot of modifications to it. I finished mine in 6 weeks with working on it only a few hours a day. Two guys in my local club here worked on one together and finished their's in only 9 days!

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

I finished the right wing panel but I made a little mistake. My enthusiasm to finish the right wing panel, I accidentally sheeted the entire bottom instead of just the rear piece in front of the trailing edge sheeting. Should I remove the sheeting or will it be OK?

Thanks, Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Gene,
That wing half looks ok, looks just like mine that I finshed last week.
Mark

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Gene,
You might want to consider taking those two pieces of sheeting back off on the bottom because you need access to that area to properly glue the dihedral brace in place. I'm assuming you did glue in the wing dowel block and the trailing edge fill-in block.
Not to sound preachy but it's always a good idea to really follow the instructions as laid out in the manual, plus it's good to read through them once or twice before you even actually begin construction so you become familiar with the various steps. With that being said, the manual is incorrect in that it starts with the right wing panel but shows the left wing panel being built, even though the plans in the pictures say 'Right wing panel"!!!!
Your construction so far looks top notch. It is a fun plane to build and fly!!

Leon

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

rc_heli_flier

Everything is where it is supposed to be (wing dowel and trailing edge blocks), I just got ahead of my self. I think I saw where it said to cut, fit and glue bottom center sheeting but did not finish reading where it said between trailing edge sheeting and rear spar. As far as tearing it out and replacing it goes, I guess I already knew what the right thing to do was. I stopped at the LHS and bought some new sheeting on the way home from work today. Just not looking forward to tearing the sheeting out. I really glued them in there good. I thought the picture looked a little funny. I am definitely having fun with it. With the little time I have to build, it does seem to have come together very quickly so far. The left panel is assembled on the board awaiting glue.

Need to read the manual again.:eek:

Thanks, Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Gene,
That's ok, I have done those sorts of things myself in the past at times, and not just with models!!! It's easy to do!!
It is a fun plane to build and it flies great. I love mine so much I'm thinking about building the 120 version over the winter and putting one of those Evolution 26GT's in it. It's about the same dimensions as a Saito 1.5 but instead of 2.5 hp it has 3.8 - should go straight up!!!

Leon

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Gene, the wings look good so far. Is there anyway to put the dihedral brace in without removing the sheeting on the bottom? This is where I stopped on my 4*40 when I left, and if I remember right, that's so you can insert the brace, then finish the sheeting. (construction is mostly the same)

I stopped there on my wing (besides having to leave) because I was thinking through doing the dihedral brace slightly different, making the brace removeable for strorage, as well as having the option to either have dihedral or not. Planning on plywood sheeting (2 or 3 ribs into the wing) across front and back of the main spar to create a "pocket" for the brace, then join wings with layered ply brace and dowel pins in leading and trailing edge. wing attaches with leading edge dowels and bolts through trailing edge.
Still pondering what to do about the gap created in the center of the wing when changing from dihedral to flat. Gotta be some slick way to hide that gap.

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Not to doubt what you're saying cwrr5, but that brace is a key item for the structural integrity of the wing, and the reason it's glued in before the bottom sheeting goes on is to insure that the brace is properly glued against all the other major components in that area. I can't see any way to insure that with the way the wing is constructed unless you have the sheeting off to double check all the glue joints. I think it would be a mistake not to take the sheeting off and glue the brace in properly, and for the little time it would take to do that, it would be worth it for the peace of mind knowing it was done right and you don't have to worry about the wing folding!

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

cwrr5 - I would only have a small gap where the dihedral brace inserts to apply the epoxy and I wouldn't be able to check any of the joints once it is in there, kind of like an arf.

rc_heli_flier - I am definitely going to remove the sheeting as it seems like the right thing to do. Tht 4*120 with a gasser does sound like a lot of fun!!

Thanks, Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Does the 4*60 have a tapered airfiol?

I can see the chord is constant, I'm wondering about the airfoil thickness along the span.

I asking because I was reading the Bruce Tharpe Venture 60 manual (it is similar to the four start 60) and I noticed the ribs are not all of equal width.

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Jim,
No, the 4* 60 wing is not tapered - I'm not sure about the Venture though.

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Thanks.

I looked at the manual a second time. I'm mistaken, they appear to be of constant width.

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Leon,

I finished the left panel and "repaired" the right panel, then glued them together this morning. I think it would have been allot harder if I hadn't of peeled the sheeting off.

Thanks, Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Gene,
Looks real good! You did the right thing because there's just no way to verify that the dihedral brace is glued in properly unless you can visually look at it and then have access to add additional glue where needed.
You'll be flying in no time!!
Keep us up to date on your progress.

Leon

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

I went to the LHS today and picked up the necessary wood to make the extra servo hatches and enlarge the ailerons. I bought 1/2" triangle stock for the leading edge and material for the trailing edges. I have 1/2" and 1" material for the trailing edge. Do you think the 1" would be too much? I'm thinking it would maneuver really fast with the extra 1 1/2". I just don't know if it would be too much for the plane.

Thanks, Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

I was going to use Digital servos in this bird. Futaba S3151's for the flaps, ailerons and throttle. Futaba 9252's for the rudder and elevator. Is this overkill for this plane? Should I save the money for another plane and use standard S3004's instead? Will the S3004's have enough torque for the enlarged control surfaces? Possibly S9001's. I am going to enlarge the Ailerons by an 1" to 1 1/2", counter-balance the Elevator/Rudder and also enlarge them by an 1" to 1 1/2". The Ailerons will not be as long because of the addition of the Flaps and the servos will be close to being centered on the control surfaces. It seems like a dumb question because I believe the 3004 and 3151 servos have the same torque rating.

I already have one S3151 and three S9252's that came with my new Super 9CAP that I got for Father's Day.

Thanks, Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Under the hatch rudder & elivator servos live on my 4* using a bottom lightening hole piece as the hatch lid. Please disreguard the wrinkled covering, and rough edges as this bird has been flying 3 seasons.

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Has anyone used Robart hinge points on this bird? I've been thinking about using them.

Gene

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Hey Gene,
How did you remove the sheeting from the botton of your wings?
Looks like I gotta do the same thing:eek:
Thanks
Mark

RE: Started my 4*60 today.
 

Mark,

I just used a #11 knife and carefully cut & peeled the sheeting off. Then I used a bar with 80 grit and carefully sanded the ribs/spars without biting into the wood. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be.

Gene