Bridi Killer Bee
 

I've searched and didn't come up with much. Anyone out there built/flown this bird? I acquired one over Christmas from a guy who was selling out. Got a good deal on an un-opened kit. I'm looking forward to building it. I was thinking of a zenoah 38 or something along those lines for power.
Anything to look out for during the build or while flying it? Instructions are impressive. i think they almost filled up the front AND BACK of a piece of paper. basically says heres the kit. Get some glue and put her together.
It's ok, though, this is definitely not my first build. I was just wondering what to expect when I start it next month.
Thanks

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Sorry, forgot to hit the notify button.

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

I have a Bridi Killer Bee, built from a Bridi kit and powered with a Zenoah G-38. It's easy to build and easy to fly. It is not a 3-d machine, but will do all of the basic aerobatic maneuvers.
I use it as my weekend flyer, just to keep the thumbs in practice.
You will enjoy.

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Cool.
Thanks, what I wanted to hear!
You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of it, would you?

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

2slow2matter,

Looks like we could get a build thread on the killer bee going. I'm about half done and looks like one or two others to start see this thread a few posts started on the Bridi Killer Bee.

[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4067945/tm.htm[/link]

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

here are some pitchers of my killer bee. I built the killer bee in 2004. It has a Saito 180 in it and Hitec 425 Servos and a six volt battery in it . It is fun to fly. Mel

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

I've got a question...I've got the same kit..and haven't started it yet and have a Poulan 46 that CH converted for me laying around..is their enough room to possibly stuff it in..or would it be too much. :eek:


Thanks,
BB1

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

does it come with a hardware package?

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Nope, you are on you're own their..
BB!

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

No hardware at all. Some plastic pieces, but that's it. Cloud--that is one good looking bird. Thanks for the pics. Any pics of it flying?
badger,
a build thread would be awesome. unfortunately, I'm still over a week from finishing my wife's kadet, and then I have another kit that is in line first. It will most likely be mid March before I can start. I would love if you would make one (if indeed you are building yours right now). I would follow it religiously.
Thanks.
happy flying

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

OK

Here is a couple pictures from a previous post on the fuselage.

I did cut in the lightening holes, changed out 1/2" triangle stock for 3/4" and added 1/2" triangle stock in corners of rear fuselage.

I also choose 1/8" sheet on top forward section of fuse. This looked alot easier than planking with 1/8 x 1/4 peices provided. I still used those on the curvy part as the 1/8 sheet does not bend well or easy.

The ST 3250 mounted to the firewall would be way short. I used a 5" hole saw and a 3" hole saw to make ring shaped peices from 1/4 plywood. I stacked these to make a forward firewall for the radial mount of the ST. I also added another 1/4" sheet to double up the existing firewall, making it a whole half inch thick. If I was to do over I would double up the firewall. This added alot of extra weight.

The plans call for stringers on the turtle deck. I never liked this look so I purchased thinner stringers, trimmed the formers 3/32 and used 3/32 to sheet plank the turtle deck.

Pictures show the rough sanded results.

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

I made some progress over the last two weekends, the first significant progress since Christmas.

Finished sheeting the right wing half and fabricated the servo mounts.

I applied about a 3-1/2" wide center 1.5 oz fiberglass ribbon to top and bottom center joint. The plans call for at least a 5" wide sectiion of glass but the instruction say this is not necessary as the plywood dihedral support will handle all the load. Bridi needs to tighten up here instruction sheet. At just two pages it has to be accurate and the fix can't be more then a simple edit in a word processor.

I did not like how this thing fitted up when joining the two halves. Plans call for building the left wing half, including the dihedral support. The right wing spars, ribs, trailing sheeting are built then this partial is added to the dihedral support and the left wing. It is do able, but unweildy.

I do not like mounting my aileron servos as shown on plans. Plans show mounting to rails "flat", where the whole servo protrudes from wing. I like to mount mine on their side to an access plate. Only the servo arm protrudes. I think it looks neater, this is just my preference, plan detail works just fine also.

The access plate and servo mounts are next on schedule.

The spars are just 3/8 square balsa which I felt was light but others thought it OK. However since I'm putting power above recommended I ran 1/4" carbon TOW along top and bottom spars from center leaving last two rib bays unreinforced. First application of this stuff and I am quite surprised how strong and stiff it makes the wing.

The landing gear mounts do not fit as nice as I would have liked. Without alot of trimming they would stick out of the wing form. I spent alot of time cutting and trimming so they would fit under the sheeting.

Crudely took out three circle like lightening holes in each rib. Brass tubes, brad points, forster bits, unibits I have found nothing to cut large circular holes in balsa sheet neatly and easily. Brass tubes dull after just a few holes. Great Planes has done a nice job with a couple tools for builders like their slot machine and dead center hole locater. I may write them with suggestion to invent a decent hole saw for balsa. There is a thing called a tile hole saw with diamond grit for teeth. Too large and expensive but something along that line, I think, would work.

Ribs are not laser cut but sanded to shape. Makes for a nice fit. But also means there are not alignment tabs on ribs similar to what I've seen on Four Star, Hog Bipe and Contenders. One must draw a center line down the each rib them block them so they are parallel. Not hard or inaccurate but just adds some time to build.

The trailing edge is just a peice of rectangular stock. It does not match the airfoil profile and the rib height at attachment width varies the taper of the wing so one has gaps between it and the trailing edge sheeting. I added a thin strip to the stock and sanded to shape of airfoil so no gaps would be present between it and the sheeting.

I wanted to try Robart hinge points so I added some scrap to the interior of trailing edge at the appropriate spots. The plan stock here is thick enough to support CA or pinned hinges but not the Robarts.

Test fit of wing on fuse shows a large step in profile from trailing edge of wing to fuse. Also the chord taper mates to a flat fuse section so there is a large gap. I intend to fill the gap and feather some balsa onto the fuse for a smooth match to the wing. Plan calls for a 1/32 ply plate to cover this but I wanted a slicker appearance. This also lead me to purchase a Robart Incidence Meter. The wing looks like it is parallel to the datum line as shown on plans. However the ill fit leads makes me question the incidence and this is a good excuse to purchase another tool. Hope the LHS has one.

This is my first tapered wing and being this is a more advanced construction I had expected a more difficult build then previous experience. However I give the wing engineering a "D+". The landing gear mounts could have been closer to final shape, 1 point off. The wing trailing edge/sheeting/rib joint cannot be sanded to shape without adding addtional material, .5 point off. The poor fit at the fuse/ wing trailing edge shows poor engineering also, 1 point off. The manual gets another 1/2 point deduction. Given what one can do today with a word processor, digital camera and a cheap printer some effort needs to be given. Oh almost forgot, Bluejay charged me $5 for a replacement manual. A little cheap when I would think could be emailed to me.

Still have to fabricate the stabilzers, elevators and rudder. Here are some pictures.

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Fat fingered something on picture upload. Here they are:

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Very nice. I'm curious, what did you need the lines for? Aren't the ribs notched for the spars? Also, another option I've found and liked is to put the servo flat, as shown in the plans, but recess it somewhat. Then, make a cover plate that has a single hole in it for the spline to protrude up through. Now all that sticks out is the servo arm, with now big slot in the cover. However, this hinges on the wing being thick enough at that spot. Not always the case.
Very nice so far. Makes me anxious to start mine. What do you think your color scheme will be?

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

2slow2matter,

The lines are drawn down the center of rib. Spar is pinned to building board then the back part of the rib is blocked or shimmed so that the center line is parallel to the building board.

I've never seen servo mount as you described with just the spline poking through access plate. But I like it, will consider on next build. Did manage to rough in an access plate tonight including the slot for servo arm so I am committed to that plan.

Color scheme will be Ultracote pearl red and pearl white with pearl blue accents. A bit of a snag has been hit on the paint. Nobody sells or mixes paint to match Ultracote pearls. Experiments last couple weeks has found that the tamiya pearl white is a decent match. It is not glossy unless overcoated with a clear gloss however.

I admire your building ethic. Finishing your wife's Kadet and another kit by mid-March is impressive.

I've accumulated 6 kits for future builds. My plan horizon is to finish the Killer Bee in April. Start next kit in May, a Lanier 40 Shrike, with finish sometime this year.

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Here are some picks of the tail group peices.

I thought the model needed more rudder so a bought the bottom trailing corner out about 3/4", leaving the rest the same. I also did not want the flying wires attached to the stabilizer and fin so to strengthen this area added carbon fiber ribbon. I used the same 1/4" carbon tow used in the wing. Using my Dremel and a router like bit, I sunk a flat bottomed cut about a 16" deep and 5/16" wide. Then laid in a layer of laminating epoxy, the tow and a fitted peice of 1/16" thick balsa. Clamped it down flat and tight. After it set up I sanded smooth and did the same to the other side.

I did not like how the fin fit near the rear former. There is a V shaped gap between the verticle former and the sloping fin. So I add some 1/2" balsa stock to fill the gap and provide a smoother transition between the turtle deck and the fin.

I had a brain fart while fitting the fin. I fitted the fin without the 1/2" thick stabilzer in place. This lead me to cut the fin root where it fits to the very rear of the fuse a 1/2" short.

My Robart Incidence meter came in today so I'll use it to check incidence on the wing as previous posts stated my concern over the ill fitting wing/fuse joint.

I used a method from airfield models.com to get a perfect fit for the wing saddle. Used expoy laminating resin and micro ballons to fill wing/fuse gap. Looks like it will work well.

Next up is assembly of bones and a draft balance check. I'm looking to place the servos. I'll place where it makes balance sense. Plans call for both rudder and elevator servos to be mounted in the fuse near the rear. I just want to confirm location with balance. If tail heavy I'll try using pull-pull to move servos forward.

I hope to do the balance check and glue and glass the cowl and wheel pants. Will post some pictures of those propably next week.

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

%#$* &!!!

Forgot to post pics again

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

pics???

OK, now I see them--very good!

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Hey Badger! Glad to see the KB moving along. That is some great craftsmanship on her so far. I'm subscribed to the thread now, so I'll be following here. I still don't have a start date on mine yet, but I can hardly wait.:) Cya later guys, Ben

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Hey Badger,

I have a friend that had to go to a paint store and have the paint mixed to match the pearl white Ultracoat. You really don't want to know how much he had to pay for that quart of paint..[:@]. Also, be aware of something else. The pearl white Ultracoat my friend used on his Composite Arf Extra was ALOT more transparent than you may think, especially if you put it on over an open space in the sheeting. Depending on where the sun is, you can look right through the covering and see all of the interior structure. We both agree that it looks awefull on the plane..[:'(].

Just my 2 cents worth.

Fly safe and have fun!!!:D:D
David

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Badger knows this from my other thread about my Kadet. I just used UC Pearl White on a kadet and you are right--it is see through. It is horrible. I had to double it up on the fuse to keep from seeing the base cote of purple transparent where I was making a line. I haven't had it in the sun yet--I'm scared to. I won't use it again. Very pretty, but very difficult to get good results with!

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

I think i'm going to try my luck with the BIG BEE, IT looks like a beast of a sport plane
hope fully the wing saddle will be right, to the wing , i've built two kits that were really bad on the wing to fuse fit, its unnerving, and there's no need of it.

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

I've got one with a G62 and CH ignition...
BIG Puddy Cat..
Did have to work on the wing saddle a bit also..

BB1

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

Some more progress over the weekend.

Attached is a picture of the Killer Bee framed up and rough sanded to shape. It has all the batteries, RX and tanks packed loosely as far forward as I could. It balances over an inch ahead of CG, really nose heavy. I taped two Futaba 9206 servos (not shown) that I intend to use on rudder and elevator to the rear of the fuse in a likely looking spot. Balance was still ahead of CG.! Good I should be able to balance by moving gear around. I do not like adding weight.

I also checked the incidence on the wing. Even with the nearly 3/16" step down from wing to fuse the incidence read zero vs datum line and stab. That good because I got ahead of myself earlier and used epoxy/microballoons to get a tight fit on the fuse/wing saddle.

I also worked this weekend to assemble the cowl and pants. Fit the cowl together with a lap joint. Instructions are unclear here but a smooth but joint would have been impossible. Placed CA along interior seam and sprayed accelerator to set. I next cut some 1.5 oz cloth and glassed the seams. I put two layers on the rear. It is setting up now. I hope to finish it out before the weekend. The pants still need the glass added to the interior joint. The pants were butted together and fit up pretty nicely.

Reviewed my color scheme to avoid issues surrounding the transparency of the pearl white. I had called for some white stripes on the wing but working out scheme to avoid placing pearl white over colors. I did a test run also and it showed quite a bit of bleed through. Another point is I do alot of marking with red Sharpie pens. On a some scrap balsa, I made a line with the Sharpie, applied pearl white Ultracote. The pearl white pigment seems to absorb some of the red line leaving a ghost image, could be it just could cover the red. So lesson learned early! I really like these build threads and forums. It is info and help like described in the pearl white cover problems that make these forums super! Saved me from fustration.

Take a look.

RE: Bridi Killer Bee
 

bird 1, did you have to sand the wing saddle? was it real bad or just minor?
I plan to install a tigre 4500 . looks like a whole lot of lumber in that beast.
i'm going to call bridi and find out whats going on with this wing to saddle fit

tally ho