4*120
 

Anybody build a 4*120 with a G23?
I’ll be building one soon and have a few questions:

Was firewall moved back? If so how much?
Did you mount G23 inverted / which position?
Was stock muffler used? If not which muffler?
How much of the cheeks did you cut away/off to clear the muffler & carb?
Where did you mount your rudder & elevator servos?

The G23 with stock muffler & carb is wider than the fuse. Have thought of just cutting everything forward of the firewall off but then it would look like a stick plane. Would like to keep as much of the cheeks intact as possible. Another thought was to widen the fuse forward of the firewall. Sort of like the cowl on a Cap 232.




Thanks for all replies.
:D

4*120
 

for years I flew mine on 4s 120,then to save fuel cost went to gas,I just cut the cheeks off,mounted the motor inverted,moved the fuel tank to c/g,after converting tank to gas. I fly mostly off grass so years back I beefed up the landing gear. the firewall has tri stock all around then pined with dowels,now flying with G38 which I like even better.I use a slimline muffler with smoke.

possible alternative????
 

Hello, and Welcome HavinFun..... You said,"like a Cap 232". Stans and Fiberglass Specialties may have something that would work? You would have to send them the dimensions of the fuse at the firewall and see what they have for cowls.
Here is what I did in mounting a Saito 150. (I did some searching for the fiberglass cowl...but didn't follow through). I cut off the right cheek and rigged an attachment rail. (I did not add the tripler on that side). I made a cardboard mock up and cut out for the engine. The front of the cheeks are tied together with a 4-40 threaded rod and nylok nuts. Then a cowl top was mounted between the cheeks and attached with 2 screws to the side of the motor mount. (which is on it's side). With the G23 you probably would not have a top piece work. Don't know??
I don't know if the G23 will adapt to this without cutting a portion out of the LEFT cheek too ... (but NOT making it removeable to keep it more sturdy).
I know this is not a perfect looking situation. I WAS pleasantly surprised after covering though. I will have some pictures as soon as this winter junk ends!!!! :(
I also got a 3/16" thick LG from TnT. The 1/8" piece in the kit is too weak for my type of landings!!:D ..(I also had them make it 1" taller).
I used the back 1/3 of the canopy for a WINDSHIELD and make an open cockpit with head rest. I rounded the tail surfaces and added 1/2" to rudder for lost surface in rounding. They suggest not to make a tank hatch...... I didn't listen!! :rolleyes:.. I put on Cub wheels and will paint the hub caps and LG to match the covering. Since this photo, I have purchase a Saito flex exaust and ran it around the fuse and pointed the end straight back between the LG.
Come on Springtime!!!!! :D...
lownslo.........Bob

other mods.
 

This is a photo that will show some of the other mods in my post above. ...lownslo....

4*120
 

I am using a RCS 140 on my 4*120& cut off both cheeks, will make wood cowl after flying a bit. Installed the servos up side down in rear of fuse with hatch for acess. Also have a hatch in side of fuse for battery and receiver, and one more hatch under the front of the fuse for motor batt & ignition. A neat mod to the canopy I have seen is to install backward and cut down to get rid of the big bulge, and look more modern. I also built wing flat and sheeted across where joined for more strength. Mine came out at 11 1/4 pound dry weight with all batteries installed. Oh I did add 1" to the rudder because it looks good.