Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

I'm building a GP Super Skybolt.
I have a concern which isn't addressed in the plans or Instructions concerning the BOTTOM wing's dihedral.
Anyone know what the dihedral angle should be or the measurement in inches for EACH wing panel.
Most threads I've read say it falls like a rock if slowed down too much, could this be because the kits are being built without the proper dihedral in the lower wing?
BTW: Looks like a great plane to build if you enjoy sanding!! LOL
Tom

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

I built one when they first came out. a lot of work, I did mine in the same color scheme as shown on the box. The finished product was just beautiful, & very rewarding. I used a ST-90 in mine.

My dihedral on the bottom wing is 1" at ea tip.

Gene

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

Hi Tom,

I'm in the process of completing a GP Skybolt myself. I also could not find any information regarding the bottom wing dihedral in the plans or instructions. I basically made sure the top wing had the correct -1 degree of incidence when attached to the center cabanes, and that the tips were positioned level to the ground and equal distanced to the vertical fin. With the top wing set this way I attached the bottom wing left and right panels to the completed interplane struts. The I-struts are a fixed length so I figure when they are properly attached to the level top wing, and the bottom wing panels are centered and seated in the saddle, it will define the dihedral required in the bottom wing. I tack glued the bottom panel halves and when I added the precut angled bottom center wing dihedral braces they seem to have the correct dihedral and the braces matched up with the spar angles nicely.
I'm not sure what the measured dihedral came out to be, but I can check later and post my results. I'm just beginning the covering stage, so I can't comment on the flying performance with this setup.
You can check out my build progress on my web page button below. Keep us posted of your build too.

Regards,
-Fitz.

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

There is no set dihedral on the GP skybolt. It is built into the wing during construction. the top wing is flat, and the bottom wing sections are joined while the wing is ON the plane attached to the "I" struts. Just follow the steps and it will all work out fine.

The plane drops like a rock because of it's thin wings and beefy weight, which is also what makes it so fast and maneuverable. It has nothing to do with the dihedral.

Good to see this discussion!
 

I recently started putting my GP Super Skybolt together and have been looking for all the information I can find. I plan on going with the OS 1.20 for power and a fiberglass cowl from Stans. Overall it has been a good building experience but there is a lot of sanding in the few parts I have completed. So far I am just starting the Fuse construction. I have made and assemble the fuse sides and are about ready to frame it up. Here are some pics of my construction... http://www.********.net/forums/showt...&threadid=3988 What motors are you guys going with? Any Change in radio setup? (I plan on using dual elevator rods and a pull pull rudder)

Good luck with yours!

Phil (Mesa, AZ)

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

I am using a YS 91AC and it is great! I also have a TME Simple Smoke Pump on it. If you'd like to see some pics and videos, you can D/L them at:

http://204.96.183.34

And here's a pic

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

Hi Mike,

Wow that does look sweet in the air! :cool:

I don't have a lot of cash to spend on the hobby, but have been slowly putting the pieces of this Skybolt together for about a year now. I don't have the $$ to buy a decent 4 stroke which I really wanted for this plane, so I am going try placing a GMS .76 2-stroke in. I tried to build it light, and am hoping this thing will at least pull it around the field. I'm not really into the whole aerobatic thing anyhow. I'm happy just doing a loop and maybe a few rolls while circling the field, and of course getting it back down in one piece. :rolleyes:
I too am going with a pull-pull on the rudder, and separate left/fight elevator servos with a reverser, and the dual aileron servos.

Anyone else tried a smallish 2-stroke on this bird? I think mine will weigh in at just about 9.5 lbs.

I really have enjoyed building it and would like to see some pics and comments from others who have built this kit. Still have a few more months of snow before the flying season to finish mine up.

Rgds,
-Fitz.

Oh, here is my color scheme. I might need some clues from you guys on how to apply the black sunburst trim. Ultracote over Ultracote? Covering is NOT my strong point.

Enjoy!

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

Well, I plan on using pull-pull on rudder and a servo for each elevator half. I'm also going with the four Ailerons.
Engine choice?...Well I just happen to have an OS1.08 laying around looking for work and bought a pitts style mufler and aluminum spinner.
I'm NOT doing the traditional color scheme, but rather something more original.
I'm using light purple and metallic plum with a pink lightning bolt on the fuse sides and pink with lt purple checks on the bottom of the wings and tail feathers.
I believe it will balance ok but I
also I have read these birds can be tail heavy, so I'll check the balance before covering minus the radio gear in the fuse, but with the elevator,and aileron servos and linkages set up.
Thanks for all your help with the dihedral question.

Tom

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

MinnFlyer said it perfectly, the glide slope of the Skybolt is due to wing loading. A greater dihedral makes an airplane more stable, but also less aerobatic. If you build per the plan the dihedral is automatic. On mine that doesn't equate to much. I run a Saito 120 and it flies great. I flew it today in fact, I wanna go back! It's a real crowd pleaser. Whenever I bring it to the field everyone has to come over and check it out. One thing to note is it builds tail heavy. Even with the 120 I had to add about 8 oz. of lead to the nose of mine. Thats with the battery and receiver up against the firewall and the servos moved as far forward as I could move them and still be able to hook them up. I hope you enjoy this plane as much as I do mine. Good luck!

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

Another pic.

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

One more time.

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

WYDAH, The 76 should pull it just fine. And if covering is not your strong suit, you may want to forgo the checkerboard. What a pain!

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the input. Actually I went the easy way with the checkers. I'm using Ultracote that is already 1" black/yellow check pattern. Stuff went on nicely. It is real pricey stuff though. What has me worried is the black sunburst trim I want to apply over the soild yellow. Both are Ultracote. Concerned with it bubbling and shrinking when I go to apply it on top of what I have shrunk down already.
Wings and tail pieces are covered. Just need to do the sunburst trims. Fuselage I guess is next. It looks kinda tough with the curves...

Rgds,
-Fitz.

...Nice plane you got there Devo!

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

Devo:
Great pics.
Maybe I'll have to re-think my covering selection.
HMMMM does Ultracote have black and clear checkerboard?
I'm balancing the plane without covering so if I need to I can cut out the lightening holes on the outer skin where they are located on the fuse doublers.
Anyone mounting the servos in the rear of the fuse sides for the elevator?
Just an idea!!

Tom

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

Ah, checkerboard. It almost gave me motion sickness when i had the covering unrolled to fit pieces under the wing.

Simple Question
 

Does this plane require a hole for hot air to escape the cowl. I see that no one is cutting a hole in the bottom of the cowl. I will have an OS 1.20 in mine so the head will stick part way out. Is that enough or should I put one in the bottom too?

Phil (Mesa, AZ)

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

For the black sunburst, poke the yellow area to be covered with thousands of holes to let the air out. Since your scheme has so much black over the yellow, you could even cut large sections of the yellow out. Just leave about 1/2 - 3/4" of overlap and you should have no problem. In the plane pictures below, The white on each wing was put on in two seperate pieces, and the blue was added later with a 1/2" overlap.

Dihedral for GP Skybolt
 

Tom,

I've only seen the checkered Ultracote offered in:

White/Black
Yellow/Black
White/Red

They have both 1/2" squares, and 1" squares. I think the white/red even comes in 2" squares. It goes on really well, but as I mentioned above it is quite expensive. I think it was somewhere around $22 for 6'6" x 24" roll!
As for the elevator servos in the tail. This kit is known to come out tail heavy. My engine/muffler/spinner/prop combo weighs in at 2lbs 1 oz, I have my 4.8v battery pack mounted under the gas tank against the firewall, and have the servo tray moved about an 1" further than the most forward position in the plans. (See my web page for photos.) Though it is not covered yet it seems I've got the balance just about right. I would think that unless your engine/muffler weight is much more than my 2lb one you would have problems with adding two servos in the tail for the elevator control. You can ask around, but so far I have not heard of anyone needing to add tail weight to this plane.

sunD,
Not sure on the cowl question. I have the two "nostrels" in the front cut out, along with a small rectangle in the nose center. The head of the 2-stroke just pokes out the side at 90 degrees, and I have about an 1/4" space around where my pitts style muffler hangs out the underside of the cowl. I'm hoping that airflow will not be an issue. Of course we don't get many HOT days up here in Maine like you have in AZ.

-Fitz.