RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Tom is an incredible builder! You need to check out his OTHER build here:

http://www.tompierce.net/190/index.htm

Chuck

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

When Tom Pierce built his SBD he painted it with household latex.  He top coated it with Nelson's.  I have made 3 calls to Nelson's.  Had to leave a message each time.  No response in over 24 hrs.  I hope I just gave him the wrong number to call back.  Hate to think his response time is hit or miss.  From what I have read about Nelson's I'd like to use his products.  Just wish he would return my calls.  Maybe he is on vacation.  I'll try again tomorrow. 
If my wife knew the true cost's of this hobby I would recieve ye old rolling pin also!  Fortunatly for me she has no interest in reading any of this!!!

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Unfortunately, Nelson's response time is hit or miss. I've never had much luck getting responses to calls or emails. Hope you make out better.

Nelson's paints, on the other hand are not hit or miss, and they are as good as they claim to be.

EG

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Jerry Nelson travels a lot to many of the modeling events. He is very good with his customer service, so I'm sure he'll get back to you when he can. He's a great guy to visit with. I think you'll enjoy visiting with him, just be patient and he'll get back to you.

pmw

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

HE He He....I just tried calling again.  Still out of the office.  Ive always preached to my kids that patience is a virtue.  Guess its time for me to prove it.  The thing is, I think I know what`I want now.  After reading Tom Pierce's webite on his SBD build, I believe I will cover with SIg Coverall using the Stixit to apply.  Then use the Minwax polycrylic (6 coats) for the dope.  I want to use Nelsons paint and topcoat.  Is there anyone out there who disagrees with this procedure?  This will go on the fuse and open bay wing.  Sig is on its way from Tower.  This model sat`in my basement for 5-6 years.  and moved to 2 new homes.  Its kinda beat up so  will be using a balsa filler and doing alot of sanding first. 
I finally have a nice hobby room at home.  And I do not have any idea why my laptop is now typing my letters all funny.  Musta hit a wrong key.  Im not doing it for emphasis. 
Anyway...filling and sanding this weekend.  Maybe start covering this time next week.  Pics will be coming once I learn how to load pics from my phone.   Keep the suggestions coming fellas.  They are all appreciated.

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

I have used the poly/Nelson method several times. Works well. You can actually use a foam paint roller on the fabric covering with Nelson's paint. It's easier than spraying and looks very nice. Just do a small area at a time. The paint dries very fast. Also, Nelson's paint is very low pigment. It takes several (5-6) coats to cover. Don't try to put it on too thick. It goes a long way, so a bottle will cover a lot of area. Have fun.

pmw

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Wohoo....I talked with Jerry Nelson today!  A real friendly and helpful guy.  10 minutes on the phone and I learned things about my current project that I hadnt picked up here in RCU.  UPS emailed me today.  My Tower order will be here tomorrow.  I also just learned I hafta go to Tuscaloosa this Sat to help my 2 daughters move into a new apartment so I have to put off starting to cover my bird.  I filled some gaps 15 minutes ago so Il be sanding tonight.  Im taking pics with my cell phone but still have to figure out how to load them to the laptop.  Sunday should be interesting.  Wish me luck and I'll kepp you all posted.  </p>

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

does ur phone have a micro SD card? or do you use a cable from your phone?

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

I do not know what it has. I should probabaly just drive down to the Verizon store and get them to hook me up.

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

OK, rather than start a new thread I thought I would ask thgis ame question in several threads in hope of getting an answer fast.  I just started covering my PT60 with Sig Coverall.  (first time coverall user)  In all the threads I have read here everyone says to overlap by about .25 in.  I used Stix-it on the balso everywhewre I thought I wanted the coverall to stick to balsa.  The problem I am having is the top layer where I am overlapping is not sticking to anything.  Should I be applying Stix-it to my overlap area? 

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Well I have covered my fuse, stab, and wing.  I had thought that the Stix-it would wick through the Coverall when I overlapped.  I was wrong.  Believing this, I applied Stix-it to all the areas I thought I wanted the coverall to stick to the balsa prior to applying any coverall.    In hind sight I should have applied it to only one area at a time.  I believe what I wound up with is alot of wasted stixit.  Plus I think my tail is heavier than it should be.  I am considering ripping all the coverall off the tail and redoing that area.  I am not happy with the results at all.  Not because of the coverall.  But because of my initial technique.  I did get better as I went along.  The wing looks alot better.  
Can anyone assure me that when I paint (Nelson paints) that I can paint and sand the seams smooth?  My scissors cut some jagged edges on the coverall.    I must say that I believe that when I get the technique down I will still prefere this to Monokote.  My curves and corners allready look better.   

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

You must fill the weave of the fabric before painting,
I prefer using Minwax Polycrylic, it is available at your local home improvement store for about $15 a quart. The PolyC has no smell and cleans up with water. I thin the polyc about 25% with water. Brush 4-5 coats lightly sanding after the 2nd coat and each coat after. Pay special attention to your seams and I assure you they will all but disapear when you are finished. You have to really search to find any seams on my planes. Be very careful not to sand into the fabric or it will start to frey. The PolyC dries pretty quick between coats(20-30 mintes) allow extra time if it is cool or humid. I also like to use Dupli-Color High Fill primer on my planes before paiting. Apply 2 coats and sand the surface smooth before paitning. You will remove 80-90% of the primer when sanding but you will appreciate the results when finished.
Good Luck!!
Anthony

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Hey Anthony.  Have you thought about trying Nelson Hobby paints?  Jerry Nelson tells me that I do not have to use anything else.  His paint thins with WATER.  He says to apply 2 coats prior to sanding.  6 coats total.  He tells me I would have the same results as using the Minwax.  I saw a posting where a guy built an SBD and he used the Minwax as well.  His model was incredible.  The link is earlier in this thread.   I believe I may go with the Minwax.  Then use Nelsons paint for the color on the last couple of coats.  Thanks for the heads up.
I am sitting here at my business this evening (tanning salon) trying to figure out how to load pics off my cell phone.  No luck so far.  Its like media player does not see a new device.  But it see's it when I want to download music.  Hmmm.

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Tom's SBD was absolutely beautiful, I made the trip to the Toledo show just to see it in person and Tom is also a great guy and gave me some great tips on airbrushing details. It's a shame his SBD didn't survive the maiden, his FW190 lokks just as nice.
I used the Nelson clear gloss over the latex on my 1/4 Cub. It sprays good and you have to thin it about 40% to spray, don't forget to add the cross-linker to make it fuel proof. Jerry was very helpful on the phone when I was spraying my plane.
Later!!
Anthony

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Well I've applied the polycrylic (about 6 coats).  Lotsa sanding.  Looks ready for primer.  Later tonight. 
This Koverall looks so much better than the Monokote I always used.  I cant wait to see it painted.  Gotta be patient and get it right.  That is the hardest part for me.

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Steven,

Regarding your ragged seams on the Koverall, I pencil a line on the Koverall that I intend to cut. Then I spray a couple of coats of hair spray along the line. Let it dry and you can cut a smooth edge with no jagged lines. You can do this either before you apply the piece, or leave a couple of inches not glued to the frame and cut the excess off in the same manner. The hair spray will not affect the adhesion or painting quality of the fabric. I nearly lost my mind trying to cut smooth edges before I read this suggestion here on RCU years ago. I also had problems with Stix-it, but I've had good luck with Balsarite. You can then just heat the fabric onto the structure. Others have used nitrate dope, but I've not tried that yet. You'll love the Nelson's paint. But it does take at least six coats to cover, so be patient.

pmw

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

PMW,  I greatly appreciate that advice.  I am going to a warbird fly-in today about an hour or so from home.  Tonight I will be cutting the Koverall for my vert &amp; horz stab.  Cutting a clean line has been a huge problem.  I cant wait to use the hairspray.  This puts a whole new light on the job.  Thank you so much!!!  </p>

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Have you decided what type of filler you're going to use? Once you get the fabric how you like it you'll probably want to clean up some of the transitions, fillets etc., or even fill and sand all the surfaces. This is the difference between all great looking model with cloth/fabric/paint, and a perfect looking airplane - it's that perfect sanding that Dave's airplane has of the fillets. I haven't chimed in on filler because I can't find the filler I used to use online anywhere. But for my next covering job I think I'll use both Elmers wood filler and the 3M Acryl-Green Spot Putty mentioned in those excellent links above.

Here's something to think about. Have you ever noticed (and I'm sure you have) how when you look at the metal/body work of a Mercedes car, the metal looks strong and thick, and when you look at an old Toyota pickup (even when new) the metal work looks thinner and not as strong. The human eye sees every imperfection in the reflection of the surface, and a smooth straight surface looks stronger regardless of what's underneath the surface.

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

I havent decided on the filler yet.  I drove 1.5 hrs today to go to a warbird fly-in and the hobby shop.  The wind was so strong all the flyers had given up and gone home before lunch.  And the people in the hobby shop had no idea how to deal with dope and fabric.  They had no suggestions worth hearing.  All they did know about were ARF's.  So sad.  They had everything in that hobby shop but knowledge.  They had no idea what I was asking when I asked about clear coat, filler primer, or anything else. 
Any idea where to find the Elmers and 3M? 

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

I'm sorry the wind canceled the Warbird fly-in. That's a long drive. The same thing is happening over here, four major LHS, my favorite due to economic factors is hiring less expensive hourly employees and I stopped going there, a waste of my time. It's a downward spiral, you can't blame the business owners and I'm sure you don't. Very sad.

Do you have a NAPA auto parts near you? Call them. This seems like a good price. http://www.bigtownpaint.com/ProductI...ctid=05960.501

Elmers, I don't know, I've read enough on builder/contractor forums to believe it's a good product.

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

hey guys this is my personal favorite, Minwax Stainable Wood Filler, much better than the Elmers stuff I use it to do wing fillets and take care of imperfections in the wood before glassing, its a bit better than the elmers, and harder.

I do add a couple of drops of water to it for modeling so I can smooth it out better.

as for squadron putty great stuff, but a cheaper alternative is Bondo spot putty, or a simmilar type of filler, 3 times as much filler for the price of the squadron putty, and it does the same job.

both the fillers can be had from a good quality paint,or hardware store.

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Go to this web and open the Stits how to page. Here is just a couple of my large scales that I used cloth, dope, uro primer, base coat, and clear coat on. This system last for years and will yield show quality results, and the great thing about using Stits to cover with is the stuff is so easy to work with. I remember when I covered my 70% Staudacher, it only took 3 hour to cover the entire fuse and all the tail feathers, no kidding guys, the stuff is really great to work with.

Bob
http://www.stits.com/RC_Model_links.html

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Sensei, hi.  Thanks for the info guy.  That looks great.  I am going to look at that website in detail.  Your models are beautiful!   Exactly the look I would like to achieve.  I notice you are in San Antonio.  I worked at Dee Howard for 8 years.  Lived near Brook Hollow just off 281 North.  All my ex's live in Texas.  I was a UPS rep at Dee Howard.  I love that town.  Gotta go...I have a website to study.   Thanks again.

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Bob, great looking airplanes! Very impressive. Lot's of fill and lots of sanding under that finish. What paint is it? It looks like you sprayed some clear. Paint, then decals, air brush the decal edges, then clear?

RE: COVERING & PAINT!!!
 

Thanks for the kind words guys, I also spent a short time at Dee Howard when I first moved to San Antonio, small world. The paint system is Dupont base coat, clear coat system, and you are sure correct about the sanding, and filling, that part takes a little time, however it shure pays in the end.

Bob