RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Hmm, What about an RCS 140 in a US1000?

22cc, might even fit the mount I have for the OS 120 FS (19cc) thats tired in mine...

Bill S.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

KaP2011:

Here's a whole thread on one approach to installing a pair of the Eflite's in a US60, and how to power them with a separate battery if you so chose:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10..._1/key_/tm.htm

After about 15 flights using the retracts, my opinion is that properly installed, they work well. You'll probably want to run a 2100/2200 NiCd/NiMh set up, or power the plane with a LiFe battery. Make sure there's no binding in the system or the retracts will hang. You don't need to use a separate battery, but some folks want the piece of mind, especially if they're running a Spektrum setup. I'm using a DX7/AR7100/DS821 system powered by a 2100mah 6V NiMH and have had zero radio problems.

Even with 5mm wire struts, the wires will bend on rough landings. So you need to check for proper retract operation before each flight. The struts can be bent back to their original condition, but after awhile, the wire seems to bend on even "normal" landings. I ended up ordering some addtional strut wires from H9 ($3/ea) so I could perform quick field swaps if needed.

I'm also thinking about putting Robostruts of some kind on my US. That may help absorb some of the landing shock, which might keep the bending problem to a minimum. But that's more money, which right now is kinda tight.

And for those of you that are thinking "why doesn't he just learn to land the darn thing?!"... you're right! :)

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Thanks for the lead Fred, I just read the thread on your retract instalation. I've got my wing framed up but I set it aside until I decided how I wanted to go with the retracts so my sheeting has not been instaled yet. (it's been collecting dust for 9 months)I think I'll go ahead and order the oleo struts as well.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

I may have over-engineered the retract install, but they've held up pretty well. And our field is pretty rough; this is the first time I remember a set of retracts being used successfully. I always thought the way to do retracts in a US60 was the Robart/SpringAir air up/spring down set up, using a set of retracts and 3/8" robostruts. But the E-flites seem to be doing the job.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

I put a set of theEflite,s in my US 60 and the stock legs bend every time I land the sucker..We do have a rough field and my legs are 4 3/8 " to the center of the axel to the bottom of the housing... I can bring it in fairly soft...It just seems like the stock legs arent strong enough...I wonder about after market struts...I like the Retract unit itself...They work great so far....I made up a setof legs out of 3/16 musicwirethat seem a little better but I cant say for sure because I havent really used them much yet...I find that my Ultra Sport likes to land hot and I want to slow it down a bit..Witch way do I move the CG Back a bit? I think I mite have gone a bit too much nose heavy making sure I wasent tail heavy....When I slow it down it gets real mushy...Feels like its going to fall out of the sky...Then if you dont give it some power it touches down hard...Kind of stall..Dangerous...Not too surprizing that my legs are bending...

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

I have the US 1000 kit and at first I was thinking about using my RCS 1.40 but I also have a nice Brison 2.4. My thinking has always been an 80 inch wing called for a 40cc. However, the RCS flew the 80 inch Kaos so well I ended up folding the wing showing off with snap rolls. I still haven't decided what engine to use yet. I keep putting off the US build too with other planes. I should get to it sometime this year?

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

hi gang

years ago an ultra sport 40 went thru several club members, they could not get it trimmed to fly
well.
after about the 6th crash the last owner tried to sell it but no takers, so he said he would just
trash the remains. so I offered to take it off his hands as a freeby.
worked with it for some time and finally realized it had to be an incidence problem.
checked this out and the horizontal stab was about 2.5 to 3 degrees negative.
zeroed everything out and got the plane to fly very well. it was equipped with a
retrace setup.
made the mistake of mounting a k&b 45 engine on it. my opinion anyone with the k&b 45 or
k&b 60 should junk them. ended up with a dead stick in a 270 degree turn and plane came
down in a nearby graveled area, destroyed. had had several flights before this problem showed
its ugly head. several club members had similar problems before junking.
going back to the k&b engines I have a k&b 40 and 2 k&b 61, the older k&b engines with no
problem from any of them to date. these I think are much better engines..
have an ultra sport 40 kit to build but would like to maybe try the 60 size, so does anyone
have plans for the 60 showing formers and rib patterns that I could con a copy of?
will pay for copying and shipping if anyone has the plans to copy.

thanks and happy flying

pt19 flyer
ultra sport brotherhood #97

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Biker:

Your US 60 sounds like it flies a lot like mine. It doesn't like to slow down, and gets mushy and will stall. Or at least it did until I dropped the flaps! Then it's a totally different bird. So I guess the first question is "did you build it with flaps?" I never played with flaps on my first US, and was convinced it was the best practice for landing warbirds I could come up with. I'd normally bring it in for landing at about 1/8th throttle, and had to tell myself to "...fly it onto (not into!) the ground..." Which obviously leads to LG struts bending backwards.

My current US has flaps; they make a big difference. I do the cross wind leg and most of the approach with the flaps down about 1/8" and the plane will slow down; once I'm over the field I can go to full down (about 3/8") and pretty much float down the field. Which is hard to adjust to! Once I've dropped the flaps, and cut the engine all the way back to idle, I still have to concentrate on flying it in, but just as I'm about to touch down an extra click of throttle will kiss it in. But I'm still thinking "stall!" all the way down!

If you didn't put flaps on it, then I'd move the CG backwards... slowly. While my current US had the CG come out per the plans, I've recently added about 3/4oz of lead to the tail to see if that will help knife-edge flight (current impression is that it didn't help). But shifting the CG towards the rear should help you slow down for landings. We also fly off a rough field, so the struts bending may be normal. The other wild idea I had (other than going to Robostruts) was to bend up some new struts out of 3/16" wire and put more than one coil in the strut. If a nose gear with 3 or 4 coils of wire will stay staight, maybe adding another coil to the strut might do the same thing.

Like I said: we gotta learn to land!

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

I have several K&B .45 and .65, never had an issue with them.

They do take a bit longer to break in then others and do not like a lean setting, but I wouldn't hesitate to run them in any plane I own.

Bill S.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

I've had at least 10 K&B engines over the years and have 3 now. I've never had any problems at all, I have a K&B mounted on my Super Sportster now that runs flawlessly. I fact I think you can still get a new Clerence Lee custom .61 for under $150. I wouldn't hesitate to put a K&B engine on any plane I own. Plus, they are still made in America.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Falldowngoboom...Yes I do have flaps....I have not played with them at all yet...How much should I deploy them? At full flap I have them set at about 45 degrees. They are on a 3 position switch....I sure would like to see a propotional dial or slider type switch on our raidos dedicated to the flaps instead of the 3 position one thats there ....I am a full size pilot too and most of the planes I have flowen have had flaps that you could bring down gradually as much or as little as you require trimming the aircraft as you go...Our models could be the same...I see in your reply you say you start at 1/8"... That sure dosent sound like much.....My flaps are only about 8" long ...When I was setting them up I tried to get as much as I could because they are so small and I didn't think they could help much...I guess maybe my best bet is to take it up high enough and play with the flaps...Find out how slow I can make itgo before it stalls....I can always re set my flaps.</p>

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Biker:

I can go look at my radio settings and tell you where I had my flaps set, but it looks like they deflect about 1/8-3/16" on the first position and around 3/8" on full down. Probably around 30-35 degrees. I wish I could go measure things directly, but the US bit the big one this weekend: low and slow when a bug flew in my eye. No time to recover, and in she went. So I'm kinda bummed.

Can you temporarily put the flaps on a channel with an adjustable rate? I've got a DX7 and I'm pretty sure if the flap servo was connected to channel 7 I could play with the settings, then adjust the normal 3position switch to reflect those settings.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Thank You Fred
I am sorry to hear of the loss of your US....Is it a total rite off?...I hope you got the bug....Mashed his ass....Ohhh I am nasty...I can believe that you are bummed out...you must have been quite used to your US after flying it for two years ...I have a lot more controle throw , probably double so I guess I better cut it back a bit... I can always add more later..Thanks again for your help

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Well, if it wasn't a total goner last Sunday, it was after the trip to the garbage can this morning! :( Worst of all, I'm not sure what happened to the bug. Better luck with yours.

It broke the wing in two places on the LE, and a smashed up the TE on the right side. Completely sheared off 3 Robart hinge pins! Shattered the fuselage in the middle of the wing saddle. The engine was about 5" deep in the ground, radio gear was 10ft from the crash site, it was truly ugly. Could I have rebuilt? Maybe, but by the time I figure out how to replace all of the front fuse formers and redo the entire nose, plus rebuild the entire wing, it wouldn't be much more work to just build another one.

And since I've got a P47 kit sitting under the workbench, I may be without an US for a bit.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Hey guys. Does anyone here have a spare new Ultra Sport 40 canopy? I am recovering this old girl and the canopy was shot. It is out of stock everywhere and it is the only thing holding me back from getting it back in the air.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

US60 canopy worked great for me on my US40. You just have to cut it down. I trimed mine to fit, buy before I mounted it, I set it on another US40 and it matched up the same.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Here are 2 that I found. The first one is a 60 size on ebay.<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Great-Planes-Canopy-Ultra-Sport-60-GPMQ2240-NIB-/390254725539?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&am p;hash=item5adcfe89a3">

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Great-Planes-Canopy-Ultra-Sport-60-GPMQ2240-NIB-/390254725539?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&am p;hash=item5adcfe89a3</a>

The second here is the 40 sizepart number to order it thru Tower Hobbies
<table class="boldtable" border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2"> <tbody> <tr> <td>CANPY041</td> <td>CLEAR PLASTIC CANOPY</td> <td>1</td> <td align="right">$12.74</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
You might also get one for the US 40+ ARF that would fit.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Did you call Tower Hobbies to see if they have the US 40 canopy? Just because the web site dont show for the 40 size dont mean they dont have one. Contact your hobby shop to see if they have a different supplier so good luck. I dont see why you cant cut down a 60 size canopy I never tried it but the sixty size is only $11.00 so that aint bad in my opinion.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...port%3C%2FB%3E

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

<div>Ok so I have finally have gotten the funds together to buy the all the goodies for my US 60</div><div>
</div><div>I am going with a OS 75</div><div>digital Hitec servos</div><div>Retracts -  now my question is what size retracts should I buy, I fly off of grass, the grass conditions now are good, but I also fly in the winter when the grass conditions are bad</div><div>
</div><div>I think that I have narrowed it down to a few choices </div><div>
</div><div>1,Robart 510RS 90 with Robart 650 struts</div><div>2, Robart 700RS 90 with, Robart 661 struts</div><div>3, E-Flight 90-120 Electric , with ???? struts</div><div>
</div><div>what would be your recommendations </div><div>
</div>

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

In my experience with retracts and grass is unless the grass is practically golf course smooth you will not be happy with retracts. Grassy terrain and retracts usually dont mix because when you land you could can will or wont bend the landing gear wire every time you land not to mention if you didnt quite build in the retract rails to take that kind of punishment you could be looking at a landing that would rip out the retract rails. If you are staying with retracts dont use the rib doublers that the kit comes with I suggest on replacing them with 1/4 or 5/16 plywood and notch the new ply doublers to lay the rails in the notches and hard wood tri stock. Next you will have to work on super smooth landings. I suggest that you use the Robart 510 rs set of retracts those seem to be a better choice for a sixty size plane. Good luck and have fun.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Hello everyone,
Just found this thread. I have been flying a US60 I built for two years. Mine is powered by the OS .75AX and uses Spring Air retracts. I love how it flies!
Thom

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Hey Thom that is a pretty neat color scheme did you do that? Can you show a picture of the bottom of the plane? What model of retracts are you using?

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

I hope it is ok that i can post a few pictures of my build progress but this build maybe the same from which you all know but there is one tiny difference so my question to all of you is can you guess what the differece is? A little hint is that Tower Hobbies sold this in a kit form but not as a Ultra Sport although it is a US in the build and appearance. Second hint is that Tower Hobbies also sold this kit in a fourty and sixty size just like the current fourty and sixty size US.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Hello Robert,
My US60 is white on the bottom except for the red AMA number on the port wing. I believe white with a dark color gives the best contrast and visibility against most skies. I used Super Monokote. It is powered by an OS .75AX on an OS aluminum mount turning an APC 14X8 two blade prop. I am using Spring Air retracts with 3/16" coiled wire struts. I have no trouble flying from our grass field with them. (Midwest Sundowners AMA# 1333 The GPS coordinates for the field are 41.50556 N -87.19083 W). The only wing modifications were to add 1/32" ply doublers to each side of the ribs that support the L/G mounting ply blocks. The air tank is mounted in the turtle deck and the micro servo and valve are mounted on the bottom of F3. I use two aileron servos mounted side ways on 3/16" ply plates at mid aileron span, so they are completely enclosed in the wing. I balanced the plane at the C/G shown on the plans and it flies very well there, only requiring a slight touch of down elevator for inverted flight. The On /Off switch, charging jack and air filling port are under the hatch on the port side below the cockpit. Total wieght is 8 pounds.

RE: *** Ultra Sport Brotherhood ***
 

Hey Thom thanks for the reply but you didnt really answer my questions...
1. Did you build that?
2. Do you have the model number of the retracts that is used on your plane?