Hi all.

I have a new Caliber 30 and have put about a gallon and a half through it. I'm noticing a body wobble while hovering. It comes and goes, and I only notice it while hovering. After checking the heli thoroughly, I did notice that the flybar assemble seems loose where it connects to the main shaft (the two silver metal pieces). There is an ever so slight gap and I can move the flybar left and right a bit and notice some slop.

The stock wood blades have been replaced with Mavrikk CF and are perfectly balanced (wobble is still there).

I have played around with the rich / lean settings of the TT .39 engine, but this only changes the range on the stick as to when the wobble appears.

Yesterday I did take the suggestion of and raised the throttle pitch curve in the 1 and 2 positons on my JR 8103 (1/4 and 1/2 throttle stick positions). This has seemed to have gotten rid of the wobble but I'm still concerened it has some to do with the loose flybar or maybe the flex in the servo tray I have been reading about here.

Thoughts? Anyone else experience this?

Harrier

I'd definitely tighten up that flybar and be sure it's centered. Sometimes, a heli will go though a harmonic range that it wants to shake although my caliber doesn't do this except occaisionally when taking off from hard surfaceand it's gone in the air.
good luck,,,basmntdweller

I had the same wobbles (and still do) and cured them for the most part by raising the head speed to 1800+. I also had the loose flybar and needed to glue the small bearings into the head so they could not move. This helped but did not totally get rid of the tendency to wobble. I have done the head flip mod which is supposed to get rid of them but have not flown it yet.

hi,

on my caliber 30 there was already a small gap on the
flybar when it came out of the box. So i can move the
flybar about 1/8 inch to the left or the right.
This implicates also that the mixer arms can move...
Seems kinda strange....

I have just hovered it once last week and it didn't wobble.
Should the flybar be able to move a bit?

wouter,
The flybar shouldn't have any lateral play. It should be tight against the bearings in the head but not tight enough to cause any binding. There should be one of those tiny shim washers between the control arm on the flybar and the bearing on each side. Be sure to go over all the parts in the head to make sure they are tight. My flybar had one loose arm on it and it was off center about 1/4". The little block that keeps the upper swash oriented properly was also slightly loose and off time by about 45 degrees. I was fortunate as I had just built a fury where this timing was addressed. Had I not built the fury I wouldn't have noticed that it was wrong.

davidj,

What is the head flip mod you are speaking about, do I have to buy anything to do it, and lastly is it hard or can a total beginner like me do it?

Thanks,

Harrier

Harrier,

The head flip is not too dificult too handle. There is a whole post on RR for you to read on. It is Cal 30 no more wobbles There are pictures and if you have any quistions we will help you out along the way. As for the reason it was done! It is supposed to take out the wobbles that everybody has been experiencing. CK from West Palm Beach did the make over. Now you will have to change some things in your radio to make it work because you are flipping the head. To answer your question on needing to purchase new parts NO. You will need a little drill bit for the block, but other than that you will work with what you have, and it will work just fine. I don't need to go in details because on RR there are instructions. Well I hope this helps.

Thanks Flash,

I'll try the head flip, that is if I can find the thread on it. I don't know was RR means and can't find the Caliber 30 Head Flip subject anywhere. I did see the pictures of it, but no instructions.

Where is the article?

Harrier

tnx basmntdweller.
i checked it again and there are no parts missing.
I'll tighten the hole thing before the next flight.
Guess i must have been lucky that the first flight was
without any troubles...

Look in my gallery for pics of the head flip. It requires the pins in the washout base be pulled and the holes drilled and the pins reinserted from the other side. It is easy and from what I'm told helps the wobbles.

Ok, I guess I am having a bad day. I was looking the the CAL 30 No more Wobble posted on RR. Question what is RR?

Ok, but how do I get to RR site and is the wobble information any good?

http://rcuniverse.com/showthread.php...caliber+wobble

The RR means WWW.runryder.com

It is alot like this site. Guyes remember we are all on the same side. Alot of people from this site are on RR also. All sites are helpful and there are good people every where.

Harrier, The article is under Kyosho helicopters and the post Is CAl no more wobbles. When you get on that go down till you see the name Michael_Fath. He gives the instructions. Have fun

so who actually found the need for the head flip? was this a recommendation from Kyosho, or simply something that someone has thought up on their own and it magically worked?

Harrier

Harrier,


From what I have been told this wasn't just made up, that this is how the Caliber 90 is set up. So CK and Mike tried the make over and found it to fix the problems.

Thanks, I found the site and article about the flip. I am not sure I completely understand the head flip modification. The pictures on my computer were not that clear.

I found the article on RR, and read through it. It makes a bit of sense, but me being a complete newbie to helis, I'm not sure I understand what exactly needs to be done. I guess first off I need to get a complete understanding of what the names of the head parts are, then go from there.

Is there any additional "pictorial" step by step instructions that a newbie like myself can go by and that won't get me into a situation where my heli is unflyable?

Harrier

Harrier,


Its ok we can do this step by step I can help you through it. Instead of using this post lets email in our private message board. I will send you a message than you can email me back. For now get a #49 wire guage drill bit (.0760) at any store. That is the drill bit that we need to make the block change. As far as what every thing is, that is not a problem in the back of your caliber manual there are pictures of the helicopter with #'s on it, and on the other page you will see the #'s with the names of what they are. This way you can see what we are talking about. Let me know when you get the drill bit.

Thanks Flash! I'll get with you in email. I appreciate it!

Har

Flash,

Been lookin' for ya. I'm ready to start the head flip whenever you are. Please PM me or email within this forum.

Thanks,

Harrier

Hey Harrier,


This is Flashover I am at the Fire station working my shift tonight. forgot to tell you that I was going to be on shift today. Sorry about the delay. Did you get that drill bit? I get off tommarrow morning at 7 a.m. I would rather us do it from my house because all of my pictures are on my radio. My friend Dan and i will be on for about an hour so you can respond back.

Flash,

Yes I got the drill bit, however there was a discrepency in the sizing from one of your posts. You mentioned a #49 wire gauge bit with decimal equiv of .0760. I had to go to a specialty store to get it, but when I got there, the #49 was showing .0730, and .0760 was for #48 bits. So, I got the #49 hoping that was what you really meant (they would have to special order the #48 anyways). If it makes a difference, please let me know now before we start drilling

And is that 7am Alaska time? I'm on the East Coast in EST zone.

Harrier