I am talking about the hub. It has a slight tilt to it that was noticed during initial assembly. Not knowing anything about helis at the time I was building it, I ignored it. Now, however, I wonder if it should be replaced. It causes the feather plate to be slightly tilted.
The heli flys ok, but could it fly better with a new hub. You can see what I mean in the photos if you look at the left side of the nut in the hub. The blades track well....
What do you think.
Dick
P.S. The crutch poking thru, is an extention that raises my rotors by 1"...

It may be my failing eye-sight, or it may be an optical illusion . . . . but to me it look as though your main shaft is just a little bent. But if it flys ok I'd "leave it alone" - seeing as how I never fix anything unless it's well and truly broke (now that really is "just me!")

Tony

PS: I was talking about your LMH's main shaft y'know

I had a hub that appeared "warped" sometime ago. Mine was due to crash damage however.....it was actually cracked.....you had to look really hard to see the crack. It did cause vibration so I replaced it. If it is much off center it would act the same as a bent M.R. shaft.
Mark

What was your purpose for raising the rotor an inch, a Darth Cobra body? Well, so far, ive stripped out a couple of hubs. Its usually caused by sudden stoppage of the blades such as in a blade strike or tip over. I ran a larger screw through the hub with no nut. it bulges just a little but it works fine for me. usually my imbalances come from a bent mainshaft. Im on my third mainshaft in about a year. I make my own mainshafts out of 5/32 music wire. they are so cheap to make If I bend one, I just replace it instead of trying to bend it back into place. They are pretty durable. I dont crash much anymore but when I do, its not usually pilot error. last crash, I lost my tailrotor gears. They stripped out sending the heli into piro mode. into a fifty ft plus tree top it went. It didnt get hung up and it fell to the ground below. nothing broke except landing gear tie straps. Now I have to get a driveshaft to be airborne again. It would be nice if Litemachines would come out with metal gears for the tailrotor. Well, anyways, the next best thing is the Matt belted tail drive unit. no more stripped gears. In a blade strike the belt will jump teeth usually with no damage. Im thinking of mounting my Matt belted taildrive system to my modded Gas 117 and see how it goes.

I raised it an inch, because everyone tells me it makes the heli fly better. So far, I have noticed no difference with the stock length, or the one I made out of music wire. The boom strikes are the same too.
I still have the stock 4/6 grips, maybe it might be more stable with two 4's. I don't know.

The main shaft is straight as I can easily roll it on a glass surface.

The hub came that way....it looked peculiar, but hey, I never built a heli before.

A far as a Darth body, very soon, but more a news chopper than a cobra. A little more landing practice and I will be another Darth customer.

Thanks for the replys

Dick

Dick - I changed from 4-6 to 4-4 grips and also added a bit of extra weight at the same time (by increasing the size of the battery). I'm really pleased with the improvement in stability these two small things gave me. Maybe you should try doing the same thing?

Tony

Dick , My hub has looked like that since day one , kinda cocked looking . Just assumed it to be correct , never had a problem though .

Steve .

Definitely go with the 4-4 grips you will definitely like it.

my corona looks the same as well. I think its in the design. Plus if you notice that the sub-rotor stablizer is very flexible I havent noticed this with larger helis. I think this is the norm for the corona.

Ok...thanks..
What do I trade off when going to 4 grips. My guess is less flight time, hotter motor, bigger bang on the tail boom. Is it worth the trade?
Dick

For me there was no discernable trade-off - just improved stability

Tony

rms... not bad for a shot in the dark. You get better heat control because of less strain on the motor. More
stability due to higher head speed (gyro effect). Run time remains about the same give or take a few seconds.
Due to the improved stability (higher tail rotor speed/improved response) your tail boom strikes are
reduced but damage remains the same, busted, although the higher head speed should reduce blade
flex which is what caused the boom strike to happen. There must be a reason we are all using 4x4 grips.