FlyingFish

My Feedback: (17)

Does this make sence to anyone?

I had a bad vibration problem in my corona, I noticed that the tracking was off, but it was off very, very little, I did not even think the tracking was off enough to make a difference, But since I could not find any other cause for the vibration I decided to try to fix the tracking to see if that would cure the vibration problem. Since fixing the tracking is pretty much a trial and error procedure, when I shortened one link and lengthened the other, as luck would have it I made the tracking problem worse, but here's the kicker, Now the tracking is off even more, but that vibration problem that I could not get rid of for months is NOW GONE! Id rather have bad tracking with no vibration, at least it won't rattle my heli apart!

P.S.
when adusting for tracking, If I noticed one blade is tracking higher than the other blade and I want to decrease the pitch of the blade that runs high, HOW DO I KNOW WHICH LINK CONTROLS THE BLADE THAT RUNS HIGH ?????? It would make thing a lot easeir!
Also, to decrease the pitch of a blade, do you shorten the link ??????????

Cambo

My Feedback: (2)

Flying fish

Mine did the same thing once.

It turns out that if your blades are unbalanced and then you track them they vibs are really bad. But sometimes if you get them out of track it counter vibrates the unbalance blade. It is strange really. Just make sure your blades are balanced. Start with the factory setting for the mixing arms. And get some even number blade grips on there, like 4-4. Makes them easier to track.

Good Luck

beaner

Hey FF,

Viewing the model from the side, turn the main rotor by hand in the direction that it is supposed to (CCW as viewed from the top). When a mixing -arm pushrod passes , the next blade to pass is the one it controls. I paint the tip of one blade red with a marker. I also paint it’s associated mixing-arm pushrod red with nail polish. That way I don’t get confused when I’m at the field. Remember that the blade that is high is “FLYING HIGH” which means it has too much pitch so you’ll have to ‘SHORTEN’ it’s mixing-arm linkage. To clear up any further confusion I made a label that reads: “high blade, shorten” which I taped to the inside of my canopy.

Hope this helps,
Beaner

FlyingFish

My Feedback: (17)

Mr. Beaner, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !!!!!

I now have one blade painted yellow and the other blue, with the associated links painted the same! I can now clearly see the yellow blade running much higher than the blue blade. So as soon as the weather permits I need to shorten that yellow blade link and test fly.

Someone once wrote here in this forum that this whole tracking thing can be done while strapping the heli to a bench, but I find that when I do that the tracking looks fine, but when the heli lifts up and flys the tracking is off. I think holding down the heli causes the low flying blade to pull up and meet the high flying blade and hides the tracking problem. It's best checked when flying under normal flight conditions.

kenhiraihnl

hey beaner...just want to compliment you on your super blade tracking explanation...btw, my helis are similar to yours---i got a logo 10-3d, a super modified corona 120, and am thinking about getting a stock logo 10...
-ken

beaner

Thanks Ken,

I have to make the explanations simple because I get confused easily (hahaha). I have so many notes and color coded parts on my stock Corona that the psychedelic 60’s called and said they wanted their heli back (LOL).

How do you like your Logo 103D? I love mine, it flies sooo smooth. I too am thinking of buying another Mikado. I’m leaning toward the Logo 14.

Beaner

kenhiraihnl

hi beaner...my logo10-3d is, as you say, a smooth flying machine...unfortunately, on my last flight i had the dreaded 'berg lockout'...i experienced the glitch before at low altitudes or hover, and broke blades and bent flybar...but this one was a biggee...dived in during circuits....i just need to install the new frame, landing gear bows, main gear, etc...a friend and i are sending our berg6s to castle for their $30 upgrade to the new berg7...oh, the repair parts came to around $100 (including a ubec)...for another $100 i could've gotten a whole kit with all the parts i needed, and then some ...anyway, keep up your great posts...

-ken