My LMH Model 110 has been acting up lately. I flew a few days ago and it flew fine but i got no power. Then i looked at the manual and it said change the copper washers, if u have 15% nitro put in to and i had four so i took out to and tried to fly again this time everytime i started it the engine started but then when i pushed up on the throttle the engine died. Im using a Vmaxx 6. Plus when i charge up my radio it never goes up full, i am using a Hitec 6. So whats the problem with all of this?

not sure I understand, it flew fine, but had no power? you mean it started fine but wouldnt take off? try adding 1 washer back, make sure head is on tight, advance throttle slowly...if radio is used, battery may need replacing, or if new it may have a bad cell
Rog

You had 4 with no power - but was running. You took out 2 (increasing compression) and it dies when you give it throttle. Sounds like you are running very lean. Check you're fuel line, it may be letting in air or may be plugging up. Check for debris along the fuel line path. If it looks all clear open up the needle and fatten the mixture some. Did you change to 15% fuel from something else? If you increase the % nitro you have to richen the mix. A very lean engine will run super strong for a few seconds until it gets hot - then the power goes away quickly. If you're not running lean, then you might just need a new glow plug. To check, remove it - go into someplace dark and apply your glow starter. It should glow red from top to bottom (the whole wire) and will likely put off a little smoke as it burns off leftover oil film. What color is the glow plug wire - is it covered in black soot or is it bright/shiney/white? Ideally it should be greyish.

i had 4 washers on and it didn't get much power. So i took out 2 because i am using 15% nitro, now when i start it it starts fine but when i increase throttle the engine dies

Right - what I said.... sounds like your engine is running lean. Check for leaky line, etc... The only thing changing the number of washers does is change the compression ratio. Less washers = more compression. More compression = hotter motor and less tolerance to a poor fuel/air mix. Try changing your fuel/air mix - richen it up some after you check to make sure your lines are good and the muffler is tight. If it gets worse then you are incredible rich and locking the motor - lean it out (odds are your lean though). If that doesn't fix it then it's probably the glow plug.

ok i don't understand all this compression and lean junk because im new. I checkked the line and it is fine. I changed it to 3 washers also. Should i move to 25% fuel instead of 15% fuel? To get more power

Fuel to air mix is important. Lean means you have too much air, not enough fuel going into the engine. Rich means too much fuel, not enough air. Increasing % nitro will make a motor that is properly tuned go lean. Decreasing will make it go rich. If you switch to 25% AND you're lean you could tear up the motor (if it'd run that long). You need to back the fuel/air mix screw out (letting in more fuel and "fattening" or enriching the mixture). You're looking for a smooth running motor.
Some pointers for lean and rich conditions:
A motor that dies when you give it more throttle is a sign of lean.
A motor that bogs when you give it more throttle is a sign of rich.
No smoke - lean.
Tons of smoke and spitting unburnt fuel - rich.
Motor "whines" and changes RPM real quick (and gets real hot) - lean.
Motor that seems to be "missing" in a regular fashion is probably 4-cycling - rich. Should be lots of smoke, too.

These are things you need to know and will have to learn if you're going to mess with glow engines. Someone who lives near you can teach you tuning a glow engine. It's kind of an art.

Compression is the amount the fuel/air mix is compressed by the piston. By removing shims you lowered the head closer to the piston - reducing the area between the piston and the head which will cause the compression to increase.

If you've recently changed fuels to 15% from something like 5% then you have to richen the motor. Find the fuel/air mix screw and turn it out. Check the instructions for the motor, it'll tell you how far and all that.

Norvel's Web site has sound clips of a properly tuned engine

Yep the ole Vmax6 syndrome. I hate that when that happens. The Vmax6 does like the higher nitro. I cured my Vmax6 blues by upgrading to the vmax7. I can run it on 15%nitro and about 3-4 washers. It runs rich like this but with plenty of power. So, If i remove washers and lean it out some, Watchout!!! My plan is that as the engine wears, reduce washers and bump up the nitro
. I dont know if thats a good plan but when I had my vmax6 installed, thats what I did, and the engine lasted a while until It wore out. I still can run my vmax6 but it needs a new piston and cylinder to get the power I would need. Hey, just my 2 pennies.

would it help if i turn the needle valve while running it to see which sounds good (from the norvel website) will that make it work better? Keeping in mind that i am keeping the 3 washers and the 15% fuel.