finally got my 110 rebuilt. i was setting everything up, and i tried to start it for the first time in my possesion. well it didnt fire.im pretty sure its due to the lack of rpm needed to turn one of these little .074 engines over. i was using a .40 starter with the cone turned around because the little hole in there fits it perfectly. but i guess my way didnt work, so i will be scanning around to buy one. its a set back, but i got too much money in it to just "shelf it."

I start my 074 with a .40 starter with no problems. Try squirting some fuel into the carb and see if that will get it going. It works for me. Once it turns over it should produce enough vacuum to cause the fuel to be sucked into the Carb. It sounds like you need a squirt or two of fuel into your Carb. Also be sure youre getting at least 1.5 volts to the glow plug or make sure you dont have a cold plug. Ive never had a problem starting these engines with the standard size starters. Hope youre at least using a 15% nitro fuel with Castor blend. Just got finished about a half hour of flying.

Yep, I have both starters and either works equally well dont waste your money, your problem is somewhere else, check glow head and fuel like Darth said..Rog

tested the glow plug, and its ok, i'll go ahead and replace battery in starter to be sure. Im using the lite machines fuel so i trust its the right type.One thing i have noticed is that fuel leaks out of the carb when its just sitting there fueled up, not sure what this means. Will try again before work tommorrow after school. At least when i was spinning it, it would putter a little but not enough so that it would turn over. Oh well, thanks for the help.

Alot of times that means nothing Sometimes, (most of the time the fuel will leak like that if not all the time) that dosent mean the fuel is getting to where it can be ignited. The fuel has to get between the glow plug and the piston head. In the last two weeks, Ive flown about a little over half a gallon of fuel. I havent had a hard time starting my engine. I just squirt a little fuel in the carb and hit it with the starter and shes a runnin. If its puttering a little, open the needle valve more, probably another turn and a half. Once you get it running, Then lean it out as much as you can then back off just a tad.

The engines will start amazingly rich, so don’t be afraid to try different needle settings, though the recommended 2 to 2.5 turns open worked great for me. Just make sure if you turn the needle all the way in to do so gently. Over tightening can easily ding up the needle.

Take another look at the glowplug. With the glowplug out of the head and in your hand attach the power lead to your battery. I don’t know what type of battery you are using to drive the glow plug, but if it is adjustable feel free to turn it up or down when looking at the plug. When the battery is connected the element should glow yellow, near white hot. Not a dull orange, red, or anything else. Imagine looking at the sun on a clear summer day. That element should look like there is no way on God’s green earth it could withstand those temperatures. If you only have an orange glow, odds are something is wrong with your plug or your battery is too week to drive things hot enough.

For what it is worth,

Spiro

ok ok, i got it running today. at first i had some trouble with it. it would only start at full throttle, and even then it would die soon after glow starter was removed. so i whipped out the vmax7 manual and set it to factory specs. and it started after a shot of gas into the carb. it stayed running better(again only at full throttle) and longer. I then adjusted the needle valveand got it running pretty good(kinda) not reliable enought to fly. I also noticed that it shakes pretty bad when spooling up, im guessing it could be do to blade grips not the same. everything else is either new or like new. and when i say shake, i mean blades arent running at same height. im just gonna put 6 dots on both sides, cause one was a 4 dot. by then i had to get ready for work. and it ran out of gas so i put it away. i also noticed it having only 1 washer under the plug. i live in south florida oh about 100 miles north of miami. how many washers should i use? Will play with it tommorrow .

Id start out with three washers and use the four dot blade grips for both blades, this will give your heli a faster rotor head speed and also helps in the stability. Thats my configuration Oh yes, and Im also using 15% nitro and i have plenty of power with this setup. Hope this helps.

thanks for thehelp guys, will try them in a little while.

ok this is starting to piss me off. My vmax7 will start but only when i shoot gas into the carb. and i can get it running for a minute or soo but then it just dies ,even when im holding it still at near full throttle and it just dies. and after that, thinking running for a few minutes will have sucked gas into the engine, it wont restart, unless i put more gas into the carb. so either anyone in south florida i can meet to help me, or anyone want to buy a rtf lmh 110 setup as a 117 with new everything. Took it to my lhs and the guy said he wouldnt help because i didnt buy it from his store, so if i cant get it running correctly there is no use of keeping it cause i just cant do it by myself.

Check to see if your fuel line is clogged. Take out the needle valve fill your tank and see if fuel will run out of the carb. If it does, then your needle valve wasnt open enough or got some debris in it.

i tried to start it again, and it ran good for a few minutes of full throttle. I held it there at full throttle and just let it run. I was adjusting the needle valve and it was at pretty high throttle with good rpm, and then just stopped. It would not restart after that so i just put it away. I think some debris might have gotten in the engine because i took out the glow plug after the engine wouldnt turn over. The piston was jammed at top dead center, so i gently tapped it down and got it running smoothly, but them i noticed that the coil in the glow plug was all smashed up and bent in a weird way. so i put another in it and it still wouldnt run. so i parked it. Wont be able to mess with it anymore today, will try what Darthdrk suggested, but other than that i dunno. LHS is closed tommorrow, and i work every day but thurs. so i might make it then of next week for glow plugs. He might help me then get it running smoothly. Dont really plan on selling it, i was just pissed off it wouldnt work after i put so much money into it(or at least for my income). But as soon as i get it flying and can fly it good, im gonna buy some of your fuselages darth, really like the huey, and the kiowa ranger.

These engines can certainly be frustrating. I do, however, feel you will thoroughly enjoy the helicopter once you get the engine sorted out.

I would wonder if the engine is running hot? You should be able to grab onto the heatsink after running it for at least a few seconds without burning it. If the engine runs well then seems to lose power and die, it is often overheating. You might want to take a look at the following thread.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...13&forumid=192

Give the engine a good once over and make sure everything is right inside and out. The peace of mind that everything is in order will help you get the last couple gremlins out of the system.



For what it is worth,
Spiroo

Sounds like you seriously need to richen that thing up... if it isn't too late.

Be drastic with it, to begin with. Everything you post indicates lean/hot.
("only putters" "runs on prime, then must prime again to restart", etc...)

If richening the needle up a turn to two turns, then working inwards from there,
doesn't help... you're gonna have to run more shims, or drop some nitro or something.

Trying it richer certainly is a quick and cheap test.
I am assuming that your tank/lines/needle have been thoroughly inspected.

thanks guys. the heat sink is cool enough to touch after a few minutes of running, ive got experiance with rc cars and know enough to keep the cool. Not sure why the engine seized yet, i got it fixed. Fuel line is clear, tank is working properly. Havent checked needle valve yet, but will remove it and clean it. It ran pretty good with three washers, not sure if adding more makes it richer or leaner i have more to put in, im just not sure if i should.
After i do all these things, should i put the needle valve at the factory 2.5 turns out? Thanks for help soo far guys. I was lurking around on the lmh forum on the lmh website, and larry from lmh said that the new metal crutches should be out by end of summer.-Just something to think about.

Start at 2.5 turns out and tune it from there. I would run it as rich as possible without sacrificing performance. I run these engines much further rich from their optimal needle setting than I do all of my other engines. If you have a tach it is very easy to tune the needle. I adjust for the richest setting which allows me 2000rpm at the head.

For what it is worth,
Spiro