HerrSavage

So I took my second LST2 out today, after putting Terra Pins on to see if would run.. It did - Big Red was going well, etc.. BUT, it kept shifting into neutral. It has an XXL transmission, but I took the reverse servo and linkage out.. I got frustrated and mangled the little plastic bit that the servo arm thing should connect to. I tried to zip-tie the arm to the rear, to keep it in gear.. But I think I pulled it too hard, then it was just in neutral. I've gone and torn down the whole tranny now. Seems to work, but dunno' for sure.. Should I put the reverse servo back in or what? Anyway, what to do? Thanks..

Muskokarc

Super glue it in place.   Otherwise would get the forwards only mod.

1QwkSport2.5r

+1 on the FOC kit. This eliminates high/low and reverse. Saves a ton of weight and no more netralizing or accidental shifts. If you want some better top speed, flip the two FOC gears - input to output and vice versa.

HerrSavage

I just put the servo back in like RTR, tested it today, and everything was perfect..

mechanike

hey people just bought a lst-2 and it has had the forward only mod cause there are no arms,nothing broke off.having the same problem.it either runs tight or its neutral. no in between.clutch shoes are ok.slipper nut all the way tight.is there something in the trans poping out of gear into neutral?if i slow it down or stop for a second it pops back into moving.there also is no second speed shift.is it the one way bearing at the dual gears the only thing that affect that?one more thing how do you know if someone already did the gear flip?i'd hate to have to do it twice,, thanx ahead of time,,,,,,,,,,,

1QwkSport2.5r

The only time either of my FOC LST2's will act like its "neutralizing" is if the one-way clutch in the 2spd is slipping. When its slipping, the engine will rev until I hit the brakes which drops the throttle to idle and I will hear a audible "click" and the truck lurches forward like a fullsize car getting dropped into drive. I treat the 2spd shaft the same as the pullstart/spinstart one-way clutch shaft. sand it down with 400-600 grit sandpaper, install (clean) dry and set the slipper nut to full tight minus 1/2 turn and its good to go.

Sometimes, the 2nd gear shift happens so low in the throttle that you cant hear it shift. I have this happen from time to time. Keep the 2nd gear clutch shoes clean and roughened up with sandpaper. Do the same with the 2nd gear clutchbell inside the spur gear if its glazed. Next, verify that both screws in the 2spd clutch shoes are set to the same number of turns. If one is off a half turn, it may not shift. I think stock is 5 full turns out from lightly seated, but I have to run mine at 6.5 turns to get the shift where I like it.

As far as the gearflip mod - the only way to tell for sure is to pop the trans. case open. If the inside of the case has been dremeled out around the gears, then the GearFlip has been done. The actual FOC kit from Losi has a standard steel gear and a TiNi gear. The TiNi gear should have one more tooth than the regular steel gear. (I may have that backwards).

mechanike

thanks alot 1Q appreciate it.do you happen to know roughly what the gear flip is good for in mph roughly?

1QwkSport2.5r

I can't imagine its a whole lot since its only 1 more tooth than the normal output gear. I haven't GPSed my trucks in awhile, so I cant tell you what the difference from stock to gearflip is but I might be able to over the weekend since we're having a heat wave here in MN. I'll say "depending on the engine and spur/clutch gearing... maybe 2-4mph better with 4 being on the optimistic side".

If you want real speed, you will either want XXL trans. gears, or the trans gears from the Losi BL conversion kit. Note: this does NOT mean I am saying convert to Brushless! Sorry - I had to make that clear. The gears they use in the BL kit are "faster" than the XXL gears which are "faster" than LST2 gears.

Make sense?

HerrSavage

IMO, first off the gear-flip and FOC is a waste of time. I started out with a gear-flipped Aftershock tranny, and didn't notice that much difference.. I was never impressed with it. Then I started having all the issues too.

Then, with all my issues - which, btw are EXAXTLY as described above with the audible CLICK into gear, etc.., I was always messing with and cleaning the 2-speed, and nothing ever seemed to help.. In the end I just gave up on running smaller truggy tires. In the same truck with truggy tires the tranny(XXL) and 2-speed and even the clutch were all brand new, and it still slipped. Put on some HPI Terra Pins - problem gone..

As for your problem mechanike, do what he said.. Sounds like he knows. I never did all the sanding and stuff - but frankly I don't think you should have to. And again, big tires on, everything works perfectly.. Unfortunately.. I really would like to have my second LST2 as a track-truck to run with my buggy...

1QwkSport2.5r

I think that no RC transmission is fool proof. They all need a little tlc to run right. I like to call it maintenance. I rarely have trouble with my lst2's, but when a problem arises, I figure out why it happened and remedy the problem. Sometimes all it takes is a little scuff job on a 2spd camshaft to get the one-way to not slip. Remember, these things are made and assembled in china, not Germany or the US.

mechanike

thanx alot 1Q and Herrsavage.great info! i'm only wanting yo go faster cause of no second gear probably! might look for a brushless trans in the future!good to know!!

mechanike

hey 1Q were talking about the in trans gears? not the spurs?ebay#160701166120 output trans gears for a xxl all i need?just $10+i already have an ofna lx-1e and with a single speed its blistering fast! no converting for me,,,,,,,,,,,

HerrSavage

How exactly are you supposed to sand the cam? Just rough the shaft of the cam up with normal ole' sandpaper?.. I've always been wary of sanding stuff - clutch bells, bodies, the 2-speed cam, etc.. Never really clear to me just how rough you're supposed to do it...

I also kind of wonder though if running smaller tires requires you to turn the shift-point screws so far out that the 2-speed clutch just stops working properly??.... With LRP tires I found you needed to have the shift screws right out to the very edge to get a half-way decent shift point.. I.e. to just before the point where they would be poking out and scraping the inside of the hub...

mechanike

hell i just messed with the whole shift adjustment thing,,,,,,,, what i did is turn the screws in to it would not shift then start turning them out little at a time until it just starts shifting,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,its the latest shift. really cool.shifts very hard very noticable!

1QwkSport2.5r

When you get that "neutralizing" at low throttle/idle, its the One-way clutch in the 2spd hub thats slipping. If you pull both spur gears off, you'll see the outermost part of the 2spd cam that the One-way clutch rides on. This is the area that needs to be sanded; much like a slipping one-way in the backplate of the engine. Use 400-600 grit sandpaper, sanding the long way down the 2spd cam-shaft. Clean well and reassemble dry and it should be ready to rock.

As far as running smaller tires and the shift point - Smaller diameter tires spin faster than larger tires, so the 2spd hub will get up to speed and want to shift much sooner - probably right off idle. This will need a later shift point. Screwing the 2spd clutch shoe screws in will give a later shift. Backing the clutch shoe screws out makes it shift sooner. I periodically pull the 2spd clutch shoes out of the hub and pull them apart and inspect the springs inside the screw holes. My factory installed set on my Aftershock were all distorted from being installed improperly from the factory - the trans wouldnt shift no matter what adjustment they were at. New springs had it shifting perfectly.

mechanike

hey 1Q or other good peeps,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,is it me or does nitro"s run like poop below 60 degrees,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

1QwkSport2.5r

Nitros will run like poo in the winter if the tuning isnt right. I run my nitros in the winter when its 20-30°F outside every winter and they run fine. Fuel goes a little quicker because of the richer fuel mixture but otherwise its fine.

And as far as the trans. gears I was referring to - they are just that. Gears in the transmission. If I was talking about spur gears/clutchbells, I would have said that instead.

I ran one of my airplane engines on my test stand last winter and at 21°F, My little Thunder Tiger .46 hit its highest peak RPM on a 9x7 that its ever ran. That engine seems to like the cold weather better almost....

HerrSavage

Nitros can actually make more power in cold weather I think - more O2 in the air.. But yeah, you have to richen them up a bit..

Starting in winter can be a pain.. If you have the possibility, wrap the head in alu foil and place a hair drier over it (at a slight angle so air can get out) for ten minutes...(Basically, try to get the measured temp to 150-200F) Then starting will be a lot easier..

The only issues in winter are really just cold starts and cold fingers ha ha... Both are overcome-able though.. - preheating and gloves...

mechanike

thanx alot Herrsavage i'll try that hair dryer job,,,,,,,,,,,,whats the best nitro.cause that might have alittle to do with it as 60 degrees was fine just when it dropped below that. i'm using Torco 30% right now but i'm almost out,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i'm using a .26 in a losi and a 4.6 in a cen,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Airbus 9e

I run O'Donnells %20 Race....any more nitro is kinda a waste of $$$. I run the race fuel because it has %12 oil and is way easier to tune.