mini ripper

oh yea mine is serial number 3464

is that good

All the best

Gareth

kevinb456

well if the wheels are moving at all when you rev the engine then either something has stripped or some gears are not connecting properly. first check the reverse module thing to make sure its not suck inbetween. o presume youve checked to see if the spur has stripped? if not, take the gear cover off and have a look. if not, then i think your gonna have to look inside the diffs and gearbox. unless ive missed something obvious.. but if the engine revs but he wheels dont move then i would think it would be to do with the gears.

i think youve just been very unlucky, mines working perfect, hopefully u can get it fixed without spare parts, because its gonna be a while before spare parts are widely available in the UK. but dont give up, ive got my running and i can tell you its well worth it! this truck is just simply too awesome for words. im on my 8th tanks now. leaned out the HSN, now gotta finish leaning out the LSN.

mine is #3350 which is the lowest number ive seen this side of the ocean. anyone got lower in the uk? i would expect not, i got in there very early and recieved it 9:30am on the day of release!

bigstu85

mines # 2357
i live in england also, nice to see other ppl in the uk are interested in this truck!!!!!!
my truck gets stck between forward and reverse. easy solution i found was to just push the shift lever with you finger and woohay works fine. or always does for me ne ways. i've broke mine in fine and tuned it up using 16% loads of power but im soon to swap to 25%. no problems as of yet apart from the one way bearing on the backplate slipping but thats due to the oil content in the fuel.

kevinb456

#2357 how! i got mine on the day of release, how did u get over 1000 trucks ahead of me! did you import from US/china?

gora

just had another play with the car, tried reverse, and i have movement, put it back to forward and no movement???????

bigstu85

yeah i got mine imported from usa where abouts do u guys come from in england??

kevinb456

i live in york, yorkshire, how about you?

sorry gora i wish i could help but i really dont have a clue [&:] all i can say is just look at all the gears (spurs, pinions, reverse gears, diffs) and check for worn or non-contacting gears.

EDIT: how about working your way through. start the engine up and follow the drivetrain from the piston to the wheels to find where the problem is. when you rev it up, first look at the flywheel and make sure than is moving, then look at the pinions and make sure they move, then look at the spurs, then look at the shafts coming out of the center box (u can see them underneath) then look at the shafts coming out of the front and rear differentials. by doing this u can see what parts move and what parts dont. eg if the spur gear moves, but the shafts underneath dont, then its either the center gearbox, or the slipper.

bigstu85

did u try pushing the gear lever wiv ur finger? try moving it from forward to reverse a few times if nothing works start looking at the gears making sure none r stripped or damadged.

bigstu85

i live in peterborough. do you know what boddies fit the LST?

kevinb456

no i dont, read your thread, i dont think the stock body is very weak, looks pretty strong to me, and actuallys looks good aswell. hell the stock paint job is pretty good anyway.

the big question, have u got red or blue? ive got red :P

bigstu85

hehe i've got the red 1 aswell
i found that landing the truck upside down even after a small jump the body just bends and isnt really strong enough for they weight of the truck. i have bent the back part of the bosy after the mounts and it has started to split. i mean i know these arent gonna be able to withstand landing upside down and stuff but i havent really done alot to it and its bent and battered. i mean ealier today i flipped it through braking to hard and the case got dented just cos of the weight of the truck on it.
i love the paint job on it also and i think red is the better colour.
what shock oil are u using i guess u still got the stock 30wt. im thinking of stiffening them up a touch as truck easily tips over when cornering.

gora

took the gear cover off,

there is a hex bolt holding in the pinion gears , near the fly wheel just before the clutch housing, i turned this a few times, it kept turning and not loosening off, got tight , made a popping noise and went back to where it started..

well

i started the car, went into the controls, and played with the settings there, and i seem to have gotten my forward back again,

one thing though...im sure the engine sounds a little rough rougher than it was when i was breaking it in..


im still on my third tank..

before it messed up , the car did rev up quite high

will this have done some damage to the engine?

or could i have done some damage when i turned the hex bolt on the pinion gears?

kevinb456

yea im using stock oil, everything is stock apart from failsafe, jr switch, 6v rx pack and different glowplug.

ive changed the mounting hole at the bottom of the shocks. ive moved it to the other hole (theres only two) which gives alot more travel and ground clearance than the stock setup.

yeah i know what you mean, it does tips over quite easy when turning (if your ging fast), but im not racing, so i dont really mind

gora: that hex box is PERFECTLY normal as u described. it is attached directly to the crankshaft so the 'popping' you described is just the piston moving to the top of the chamber then coming down. perfectly normal. i doubt you have done any damage, you have definatly done no damage with the hex bolt, as you need to lock the piston to be able to un-do that bolt. however having not seen how much throttle you have used i dont knpow whether youve done any damage to the engine. i really doubt it though, have u used full throttle yet? what are you HSN and LSN at?

for your third tank i would go at medium speeds still, then on fourth maybe go at medium speeds again, and towards the end of the tank, start blipping full throttle.

one thing i would recommend is setting the radio up as you want it. read through all the functions to make sure you understand them. the throttle deadband, epa and trim are the most important functions to set, everything else is fine stock.

bigstu85

i doubt u have damaged the engine also. how high did it rev?? as in was it screaming, did it have smoke coming out of the exhaust all of the time and did it stall due to it or did u cut the engine? if u cut the engine and it had smoke coming out the exhaust all the time u wont have damadged it.

gora

by the way model number is 003438.

1st tank i let it idle

2nd tank, very little throttle - running pace.ver small blips

3rd tank same

before it cut out revved quite high, not absolutley loads though, plus, it was only for approx 5-10 seconds

i haven used full throttle yet, havent even used half throttle i rekon.

as uve probably guessed im quite a newbie.

so the radio stuff make no sense to me, anywhere or anyone know or can help with a walkthough of the settings on the radio?

ie EPA etc?

once again your help and advice is really appreciated.

i live in bradford in the uk

gora

the car was not screamin and i cut it out by puttting my finger on the exhaust outlet

bigstu85

u wont have damaged ur engine then it probably sounds rough because ur still braking it in. i found to get it running smoothly or even at 1 point get it started u have to lean it in a bit as its way to rich. try leaning the highe end needle by 1/16 of a turn and see if sounds ne better

Hezrou

I'm from Cardiff in Wales. Got me a Blue LST.

Your engine should be ok. dont forget slight changes in the weather can effect how your engine runs

kevinb456

if what your saying is true, then you will have done no damage whatsoever. its no problem that your a newbie, we were all there once, if you need ANY help at all, just ask, i will try my best.

yeah all the radio stuff is confusing at first but the manual is very good and explains it very well. just go throught the manual.

take the air filter off, so you can see the carburetor and see the changes your adjustments are making. i suggest start at page 20 (adjusting 'throttle deadband'), then page 22&23 for EPA (end point adjustment - maximum travel for the servos), then page 26 for sub-trim adjustments.

each function has numbered steps saying exactly what buttons to press to access that particular function, and its explained very well so you shouldnt have much trouble.

basically:
adjust the throttle and brake deadband so that as soon as you move the trigger rearwards, the carb starts opening, and as soo as you move it forwards, the brake starts acting.

adjust the EPA so that the carb only fully opens when you fully pull the trigger (and not like 3/4 of the way there liek stock setup). you can also adjust the steering in the same manner, but its not really needed.

sub-trim is basically the same as the trims which are actual buttons on the front of the radio, except they are done in the back ground kind of, so you just put them 'roughly in the right place' then fine-tune adjustments are made once you are driving using the trim buttons on the front of the radio.

if theres anything you dont understand, then just ask.

mini ripper

Hello All,
I’m from Devizes Wiltshire and I have a blue LST serial number 3464.

The radio that came with the LST is the best I have seen in a RTR ever the savage, T-maxx, Revo and MGT (yes I do have all of them) all had crud radios hence why I got myself a Ko-propo helios 10 which is the dog’s nuts. I didn’t even take the radio that came with my LST out of its box well I did open it to put the receiver back in the box.

Anyways the JR radio is a good rig only thing is it’s a shame we didn’t get a synth radio as that would have been well useful but as always we get the hard end of the deal.

Well Gora my best advice to you is read the manual and then if it still doesn’t make any sense ask us lot on RCU and im sure we'll be able to help you or at least get you going in the right direction.

As a newbie to the wonderful hobby of Nitro Monster Trucks you will be well aware of the frustrations they can cause but all will become clear with experience I have been into nitro models for 12 years and I still don’t know even close to everything but I do know enough to get me buy and have good resources as in RCU and some other forums.

All the very best on your new hobby and all I say is don’t get to disillusioned

T-meker

gora

tell you what guys, when i purchased this truck las week , i was really torn between the LST , the Revo , and the SAVAGE

reason for me choosing the LST, was probably down to the reviews and writeups on the web, savage looked old, revo looked small, and too technical. lst looked big and powerful.

went to lhs yesterday and they have the new CEN in, looked quite all right, but after the reviews i have read , the general feel i get on this is that its not all that.

hopefully once i have all my problems sorted on the lst , it will be a nice n stable machine,

cant wait to see all the option parts turning up for this truck, first thing i would probably buy is a roll bar.

ive seen some prices already for the option parts, and i was surprised to see how dear the parts are. all in the region of £40+....!!!

savage hop ups are cheaper, and so is revo.

dont matter....guess im gonna have to spend that little more.

i only got into nitro cars a few months ago, and i purchased a HPI MT2, tell you what i wasnt too impressed, it kept breaking on me all the time, very weak..

anyone know where i could race the LST in yorkshire?

mini ripper

I think you made the right choice in gettting a LST the thing with the savage is that it is getting old now and is in need of an up-date of some sort and mine just does my head in i have put about £1300 into my savage maybe even more and the damn thing still breaks like a carrot.
As for the revo I got it to race in the stock class as i think it is a contender and will be very popular.
That CEN i dont own one and most definatly dont intend to at all.

gora

took a trip to my LHS today, picked up a few extra items.

1.ATOMIK R/C MINI TEMP GUN (wanna make sure i get accurate temps when playing with settings)

2. HPI 1200 HUMP BATTERY PACK (im going to take out the stock 4 aa's and put them in there, i also have a 5 cell fast track 1100 in the optional holder).. purchased for back up - coz ive been reading that these batteries may not last longer than 3-4 tanks

3. got the charger for the handset and new rechargeable batteries 9 (seems to work now)

4. hot bodies fast charger for the batteries....plugs into cig lighter, lhs rekons this is the best type of charger for the batteries

gora

Glow plug question?

what is the best type of glow plug for UK, running nitro 25% in a lst , factory settings.

im probably on 7-8 tank and have gone thorugh 2 glow plugs already

what are other uk lST owners running?

gora

also, purchased a VENOM SPEED METER, anyone know how and where to install in the LST