Hi Floks

My son Scott and I have just got back into RC planes, and flying this last year.After about 10 years of off time, it was the new Parkzone backyard flyers that got us back into the hobby. Starting with the Ember, then the Cessna, then the E-flight4-Site, then bacl toParkzone Mustag. But after the Cessna we wanted to build small. We started of with the guts from a Ember and made Thayer's Micro Drake. Itflies well and it does take off from, and lands on water. Then Scott and I, tried building a 1/26 scale Fokker DR 1 it didn't fly at all. Then Scott remembered the half done DH2 40" wing span in the atic. He started from scratch build 1/26 scale foam DH2 with carbon fiber struts, and guts from the Ember with string controls, it didn't fly well, but it flew.Picture below.

Hey mod
Cant make pic enlarge to see it!!
Can you post pic again and see what happens.

From what little can be seen in the small pic it looks good.

Hi Dave

Well I have another picture of the next DH2 that we did. I went with bell cranks around the push engine and it flew real nice used the guts of the Ember. The picture is of me holding the DH2, the color job is sharpies but we are looking ahead on this plane. I will post some video of thisplane I'm holding flying.

Keep on flying
Scott and Mike

This is a video showing that our proto type 3ch flies </p>

http://www.vimeo.com/7339320</p>

This is one of aircraft, DH2, that ended the "<font color="#0645ad">Fokker Scourge</font>" in WW1. Scott and I had to make it look better now that we knew that we could make it fly. We learned about printing on foam and found a printer that could it. Got into a cad program and Scott did all the art work in the cad program and we printed out the plans for the next DH 2 airplane. This time we wanted it look better and fly with four channels we used the guts from a Parkzone Mustag.

This is the upper wing....it is 1mm printed depron.
This is printed straight to the foam after it was airbrushed with Inkaid.
We thinned the inkaid about 50% water 50% inkaid. Furthermore I didn't weight before because I coated a whole sheet of depron then cut three 14"x13" sheets after it had dried. If you do a search on inkaid someone has this information.</p>

</p>

This is a test body so I could make the nose plug the right size. I plan on molding the nose out of light clear plastic and airbrushing it the right color.

Nice work. I'm lurking

Hi Wheelnut

Lurk away

This is our third attemp at a nose and some strut construction. Note that the struts have the color scheme on both sides and the nose is taped for a test fitting.

Now that's cool.

Hi Wheelnut

What we got out of an evening of vacuum forming practice. Now its off to figure out how to get the right paint color.

I thought that nose was vacume formed. at first I thought you may have bought it, but you guys are doing it yourself, very cool.

For the wheels most WWI aircraft had hubs on different color.
we used these wheels perfect scale. I used black marker and glued on
red hubs the next one I'm going to paint black, but they looked good
on the first DH2 pictures above.

I just wanted to post some color pics of some of the assembly steps and inner workings.
This is the bell crank for the rudder and the reused Parkzone mustangaileron bellcrank mounted on the floor peice. We are using thread for the rudder and elevater pull pull set up like the real DH2.

I see a plane coming together
Man that's some mind numbing tiny detailed work[X(]

Nice work!

Now the wings and struts, easy to do, takes a little time not much. It's the 200in. of carbon fiber that makes this model work. This is a scale models to. The 1mm foam is easy to cut out with sharp sisscors, or exato knife. We used the string for the rudder and elevator pull, pull system no small pulleys but glass beads worked well in picture three.

Ahhhh..... starting to look like a plane. Nice! I don't like that level of detailed work too much. I don't have the patience

This is easier to build, than the Guillows kits, I use tobuilt. First you cute out all the foam parts, then you cut the carbon fiber and build the struts and boom body I have template for this so they are the same every time. My son Scott wants me to make a kit of this.

After you have the sturts and boom body done, and the body put toget with the controls inside you attach the lower wing to the body and add the struts to the lower wing with the cross carbon fiber. Then you stand the plane on the flat part of the nose and add the boom body. You will notice that 1mm foam parts are glued to both sides of the struts over the carbon fiber. It makes it look real cool. The struts are added to the wing when the plane is shown in the first photo.

Man! put the plane together already[:@] What's taking so long, it's been like two weeks now right??[>:]

Just kidding. lol. Looks like it's going well.
It would probably take me a month or more

Here are some pictures of the back of the boom body, with the 1MM foam on the sturts to make it look likethe real paintedwood. This foam is also around the wing struts. The nose of the DH2 is held on by magnets and the battery goes in the nose to keep the CG as far forward as we can, and if you have to add weight it would be here in the nose. Wheelnut it's taking more time to take pictures, and write this blog than to build the DH2.</p>

I like the magnets. I'm starting to see them on more and more applications.

I know one guy that is starting to use them to hold on his cowl

if you make a kit i will buy one!! just got the parkzone bnf mustang so i guess i have the electronics for it!!

Hello Eagledancer

Scott, my son, and I have been talking about this and we have been thinking, $40.00 plus shipping that would giveus about
$1.00 and hour for our labor, but the plane looks to nice not to share. Whatdo you think?

Scott and Mike</p>

Now for the elevator and rutter, both worked by pull, pull strings.