I've had a heck of a time getting my 3W50cc to run....well some 'magic' and it now runs, but spits out a lot of fuel thru the carb when running at full throttle....any recommendations on what I have to do to keep the fuel going in the right direction? Thanks,

jf

Reed valve not seating?

How do I check on that? And thanks for the suggestion.

Jerry

No experience with that engine in particular, but from the picture it looks like all you have to do is pull the carb?

The reed valve blockshould be located under the carb in where that black spacer is located between the engine and the carburetor. Of course it could have a rear rotary valve, but I see no reference to it anywhere so I assume it is a reed valve. I do remember seeing pics of it having a intake stack on the engines before too. The intake stack would reduce the carb spitting a lot by helping to keep the fuel inside more.

Yeah, I would say reeds too. Might be a stiff carb diaphragm stuck in the open/rich position though....

AV8TOR

http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=193042 try this it for a dle but the idea should help you,good luck ,rye

or this one

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...nchor/tm.htm#1

This grosbeak guy gets around! He does a nice presentation though!

I'll take off the carb again and this time go 'into' the 'reed' section and see what is happening......I appreciate your suggestions!

Jerry

I took off the carb again, and pulled off the reed section and I see a reed that is maybe 1/16" above the foam and is very stiff - see pic......is this normal or should the reed be flexible?

the reed should lay flat on the reed block.you could try to flip it over,look for anything on the reed and block that could keep it from laying flat.that is the reason it is hard starting and spitting fuel.

Is the condition such that a reed that is not seated will allow fuel to reguritate?

I will flip it over and reinstall it! I'll let you know and thanks for the tip.

There seems to be about 1/16" between the reed and the block, so I'll flip it over and see what happens....sheesh, never had so many problems with a gasser before! When I bought this engine (used), 3W was THE engine and DA stood for "Dumb *****"....well we see how that turned out!

jf

Here is the reed removed from the carb......notice the gap. I tried flipping the reed over, but the mounting holes do not line up - perhaps I should drill some new ones?

I might try that in an emergency. Otherwise, just replace them.

I flipped the reed over and it fit perfectly in the carrier, but when mounted, I got that 1/16" gap between the carrier and the reed

This is getting frustrating to say the least....I hate to, but might have to send the engine back to 3W grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Thanks to all of you for your input and if anyone has another suggestion, feel free to contribute as the engine isn't boxed up just yet

jf

Ok the white color thingies are the reeds. The black carrier is used to prevent the reeds from moving up too high. The reeds should lay flat against the reed block that they screw onto. So you need to look closely at the block to see if the reeds are laying flat against it or not.

earlwb, they aren't...so I guess the engine will have to go back....

Sometimes the reeds can just be turned over and remounted so they seat well against their stop?

Did you already try an intake funnel?
This usually reduces / eliminates fuel spray comming out of the carb.
For example this one: [link]http://www.3w-modellmotoren.com/katalog/zubehoer-motoren-allgemein-39/ansaugtrichter-mittel.html[/link]

This might help, they had a article about making the reed valve's reeds lay flat here in this thread for as DLE 20 engine. But the same techniques would apply to your engine too.
It might give you some ideas.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11...m.htm#11396471

years ago we would have problems with the reeds in our old johnson outboard motors reeds and just removed them and very carefully bent them until they layed flat on the block. the motors ran fine ,,,later the reed broke and it had to be replaced but it worked for a whole summer.

You don't need to send the engine back, just buy the reed cage and reeds and fit them yourself.
If you don't have the velocity stack order that at the came time.