I just spent 2 hours reading this thread. Yes, I printed out #116! I am about to maiden a GP Gene Soucy 160 Extra w/ the 160FX. I will be using a Mejzlik 18 x 6, Bisson 160 pitts, and a VP-30 all on Power Master 10%. Does this sound like a descent set-up? BTW, do I need to adjust the VP-30 or is it preset out of the package?

I don't run a Perry pump, it's not needed on this plane.

Have fun with it.

I had to increase the flow on my pump. Keeped burning out plugs. After I got the top end right I had to lean out the bottom end! The instrutions say it's preset but thats with a pressurized tank not pumped.

Turned 7000 with the 19X8 Mejzlik turns 7500 with menz 18X6-10 The Engine seemed to be laboring with the Mejzlik. I'm going try a 17X8 APC that is what I ran on the GP Giles 202 I have a 18X8 on order I think that is going to be the prop!

Hitec,

I've got the same airplane, engine, prop and muffler as you. I'm at 3000 ft. and my airplane has unlimited vertical. I'm running Byron 15% nitro / 20% oil and my Mezjlik 18X6 is turning around 9000 rpm usable, peaking at 9300 rpm. Don't get your fingers into it else they'll be gone. Enjoy!!

Ihave just bought an os 160 and was wondering if they are easily flick started?

Is the os 160 easily flick started?

Yes, Prime til juicy and back flip.

Does anyone know where I can get the original muffler for the OS 1.60 FX? I might even be willing to trade someone my Bisson Pitts that I've used for exactly 1 gallon. It is in good shape and unmodified. Does anyone have a new or used (in good condition) stock muffler?

Thanks,
Gary

I bought the engine without the muffler and use the Bisson Pitts muffler. Only one issue though, you have to close off one of the exhaust tubes to get the engine to run right. The Bisson Pitts does not produce enough back-pressure for this engine or the 1.20. I just crimped one pipe at the box with a pair of vise grips leaving a very small opening for any fuel to run out and the engines run great!! Both pipes are still there and look good, where they show. Found the tip in an old RC Universe Review on the 1.20. The key is that you should never use a muffler with a larger opening then the stock muffler. If you do you will usually find that the mixture screws have little or no effect. Don't know if that's why you're looking to trade but hope it helps.

Al Lewis, USAF ret'd

Flew it today with the Menz 18 X 6-10 Tuned to 7400 Static. Flew well, Motor still on the new side. Burned out the original with a lean run. It was repalced by Hobby Services at a very fair price. Less than what the repair would have cost. I'm going to stick with this prop for now. Not unlimted vertical but Great running.
The 17X8 apc spins in the air with the Goldberg extra 330. Worked great on the GP Giles 202. You can hear the engine spool up but the plane then has to catch up. The Menz has much better grab with this Plane.

Hi Fellas, great thread

I have a brand new, un-run, OS160FX, with a Bisson Pitts Muffler, and a VP-30 pump. It's going in the new 74" Extreme Flight Yak. I do have a couple of questions though.....

1. Should I run the motor in with the pump installed, or without and fit it later?
2. Whats the best way to put tin the pressure tap for the pump?
3. Is the APC 18x6w too heavy for good spool up in 3d?
4. With the pump do I need to leave both outlets open on the muffler or block one off?

Thanks, muchly!

Andy

I've never ran a pump and have no need to on this engine in this plane. The muffler thing has nothing to do with a pump. To run right the engine has to have enough back-pressure so you cannot have muffler openings larger then the stock muffler. I run an APC 18x6W on my CAP and it spins up just fine.

You know Lou55, I ignored the advice you give for quite some time. The reason I ignored it for so long is because everyone kept talking about the loss in RPM due to the restriction in the exhaust. I said screw that, I want all I can get out of the engine. But, at the same time, I didn't want to tap the backplate for a VP-30 or Cline. I had read a number of posts where people had used the Perry VP-20 (oscillator) with success (it doesn't require drilling/tapping the backplate) so I gave that a try. I knew it wasn't the right answer, but I got by for a while, constantly fiddling with tuning it correctly. You see, I mounted my tank back close to the CG in my CMP Giles 202 140. Anyway, I could set it very well with 1/4 tank, very well at 1/2 tank, and at full tank, but never all 3 at the same time. It was very frustrating and I broke my flights into 2 six minute flights on most occasions. I had all the "experts" try their hands at it, never with any success. I'm sure there are guy out there who could get it to run well, but I could not.

To make a very long story not quite so long, I read Lou55's reply above (I read it from many people many times) and decided to give it a try. I plugged one of the two exhaust outlets with a piece of dowel. The first thing I did was bypass the VP-20 and put all the settings back to default per the manual...2.5 turns out on both the high and low needles. The engine fired right up (1/4 tank of fuel) after a generous prime, but ran extremly rich as I gave it throttle. It would idle nicely (glow plug removed), but bog way down with any throttle. I leaned it to peak and backed off about 300 RPMs. This worked out to exactly 1 turn out from closed on the high needle. I ended up closing the low needed 1/4 turn more (2 1/4 from closed) for smooth transition.

This ended up giving me 8500 RPM rich for flight. With the VP-20, I was running at 8800, so I lost 300 RPM. I realized that many of you are getting a lot more than the 8800 I was getting, so it leads me to believe I had it tuned wrong. But, it flew great with loads of power to spare (with the pump). It should fly just fine losing the little power I lost, I figured. One time I let it idle for 2 minutes exactly then jammed on the throttle. There was a very slight sputter before picking up to full RPM. There is no hesitation idling for 90 seconds or less. I repeated this with 1/2 tank and full tank and was able to maintain the same idle RPM of 1850. I did not have to adjust the high or low needle to achieve excellent throttle response from idle to any throttle setting.

I flew the plane to put this all to the test. After two tanks, I had tremendous performance from full tank to about 1/4 tank. I landed after about 12 minutes and each time I had about 1/4 of my 14 oz tank remaining. I did not fly much full throttle, but lots of 1/2 - 3/4 throtle. I could not be happier.

The bottom line is, I did not have what it took to get this engine to run well with the VP-20. I did not want to mess with drilling the backplate for the VP-30. I was not having fun with my plane/engine. I couldn't take it anymore. I refused to spend the countless months that some people had spent struggling. I went against all instinct to get this problem resolved "correctly" and went with the "quick fix" of plugging an exhaust outlet and it gave me the desired satisfaction. You can call me naive, lazy, stupid, or whatever, but it works now, I'm happy, and I'm flying.

My setup (pump the only thing changed):

CMP Giles 202 140 with clunk about 12" from carb
APC 18x6W
Omega 10%
OS #8 glow plug
medium fuel tubing (I know, large is better)
Warner Robins, GA, about 500' (?) ASL

Giddy Up! (Yes, I'm a HUGE Seinfeld fan, but I'm not Jewish, not that there's anything wrong with that :-)

Glad it worked out for you. I thought about using a dowel to plug one side but decided against it due to the fact that the pipe could hold fuel in the space above the dowel. I just crimped mine about 2/3 to 3/4 closed so this fuel would still be blown out. I run a APC 18x6W on PowerMaster 20/20 and with the engine boken in now get 9000 RPM +. My tank is in the stock location for the GP CAP 232 so that might be affecting your performance. We also did this on my son's OS 120 in his Cermark Pitts with the same results. Prior to crimping the pipe we couldn't even tune the engine. It was like the needle's weren't even connected to the thing. I don't think you need to do this with the SlimLine mufflers as they have internal baffles that create the back-pressure for the engine. Glad it helped you out! Happy flying!!

I am running the Bisson pitts and have no problem getting my mixture rich enough if need be. I do not recommend pinching off one of the muffler stacks as that will reduce your power output. I AM running the Du Bro LARGE clunk and LARGE fuel line to the carburetor. I am at 3000 ft. in altitude as well and that may be why I have no problems getting the mixture rich enough but not sure. Other guys at my field have no problem getting this engine/muffler combination to run rich.

Your profile says you are running an OS .46 in a Aeroworks Edge. I don't believe it's necessary to do this to the small engines. From teh OS 120 manual

"The same applies if the silencer type is
changed. A different silencer may alter the
exhaust pressure applied to the fuel feed and
call for a revised Needle-Valve setting."

THIS IS ONE SICK ENGINE\!! It is a little on the high side of prices but you get what you pay for.. I might be on the loco side of engine buying.... I usually buy different engines...From my ROSSI BLACK MAGIC .21 buggy engine, and putting a 26cc gas eve into this 100x (doesn't always work out the way I want it) but I try different things.. I guess this is way when I build so called arf's they take me twice as long to complete than if someone else is doing it...
Anyone used these engines\?? let me know.

After a short run-in (with a 16 x 12 APC 18% oil, 8% nitro), the engine becomes instantly powerful and very reliable. The low-speed is perfectly carbureted and very few carburetor adjustments will be necessary when using different propellers. The low to high speed transitions will be quick and reliable. Below is a short summary of the results obtained with different propeller combinations on the 3M 140 and the 170


Fuel 14% MOTUL micro, 15% nitromethane, central glow plug OS A5, rear glow plug OS F 4-stroke


3m mintor 1.40 engine
Weight: 27.5 oz. (780 gr.)
Power: 3.7 hp
Integrated fuel pump in backplate
Twin glow plugs.

APC 16x12 - 8,350 rpm
APC 16.5x12 - 8,300
APC 16x14 - 7,900 rpm
APC 17x12 - 7,850 rpm


3m mintor 1.70 engine
The most powerful engine available in the F3A marketplace.
Weight: 29.3 oz. (830 gr.)
Power: 4.1 hp
Integrated fuel pump in backplate
Twin glow plugs.

APC 16x14 - 8,150 rpm
APC 15.5x12 4-blade - 7,900
Mejzlik 18x10 - 8,250 rpm
Mejzlik 18x12 - 7,600 rpm

I too looked into a 1.60fx, but here is 2-powerful engines that are a work of art and run as good as they look. They run great out of the box and are pumped Made in ITALY

[link=http://www.shivlal.com.sg/mintor.html]For this much money[/link] I bet there are many options. I couldn't find much info, do you have another site, perhaps with lower prices?

Right proud of them, ain't they!!!![X(]

http://home.comcast.net/~aeroslave/MintorPricing.htm
This is aeroslave and they will give best price and best suppport. I don't own one of these yet but I am thinkng about it.... I will eventually get a 2m pattern plane not sure if itis time to get it now....

\

From the O.S. Engine support forum and I quote "It all depends upon the particular installation. Usually, though, one of the outlets has to be restricted to give the fuel tank enough back pressure.

Other modelers have had success by using oversize fuel tubing in the tank and to the engine. This includes any brass tubing or through fittings in the tank.

_____________________________

Bill Baxter, Manager Hobby Services/Futaba Service/North America
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Ste. 1 Champaign, IL 61822 USA
Service Phone: 217 398-0007
Email: hobbyservices (at) hobbico.com "

Thank You!

Just did a direct pull digital thrust reading on the O.S. 160FX with an APC 18x6W prop. 18 pounds of thrust @8730 rpm. Should be interesting as I just put it into my CMPro Christen Eagle with an AUW of 13lbs 10 ounces.

Right now I'm getting about 8800 RPM on my 18x6W in a CMPro Giles 202 weighing in at a few oz over 11 lb. It flies the plane very well, plenty of authority. I am thinking about putting it on this:

[link=http://www.peakmodel.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_16&produc ts_id=149&zenid=64253dd0de3ceaccb98f7fd283dd9552]Peak Models Edge 540T 26cc[/link]

The video is amazing. That plane looks very fun and many people are able to keep it below 10 lbs with a gas engine. I'm licking my chops. [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4641559/anchors_4641559/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#4641559]The forum is here.[/link]

Gary

Well knowing how much you like a great deal, check out Adam at BCMA Engines if you decide to get that bad boy. He has GREAT service and and awesome product for the best price out there. I just bought two gassers from him. http://www.bcmaengines.com/

DONT BUY A MINTOR UNLESS YOU KNOW HOW TO DEADSTICK!

thats all i have to say about that, i now fly os 160, vp30 pump mac close pipe, 18.1X10 W APC.. no idea what rpm but my 10 lb 6 oz plane goes out of sight straight up, burns little fuel, backflips and cost way less.. just needs new bearings instantly and then enjoy.

Chuck