I had to notch mine to get the tank to fit... using the tank provided

24oz is Wayyyyyy too much capacity for this plane... I fly for a good 15 minutes on a 16 oz tank. Why carry the extra weight...although one could only fill 2/3 way.
The stock tank works beautifully,and is just about the right capacity. Notching the bulkhead takes all of about 30 seconds, and a small piece of 3/16" square hardwood stock makes for an excellent doubler... weighing this plane down will kill its performance.. I have seen it fly at 17 pounds and 15 pounds... NO comparison between the two. Lighter is definitely better.

Mine is on track for 15 pounds 4 oz dry... we shall see at weigh in.

DP

actually I mispoke. I only have a 20oz tank in my bird and she weighs 15.5 pounds.

Thanks everybody. I appreciate all the ideas. It was only a small hurdle, but I was tired and couldn't make a decision. Thanks again. Dale

Here are a few more pics showing the electronics and fuel tank. I fabricated a lite ply plate to fasten the tank with velcro... notched the bulkhead and then located the tank squarely over CG.. notice the center of the tank is its slightly aft of the wing tube...also the ply plate greatly strengthens the bulkhead, so no matter how much I had to clearance the tank it didn't matter! CG on this plane is just behind the wing tube..!

I located all my switches and charge jacks inside... and have small pins to turn the switches on and off with the hatch locked in place. (similar to how QQ did it..) Mounting the switches like this completely eliminates the need to hack up the thick foam sides to mount the on/off switches and it made for a very clean install.. all of my power wiring is in the engine box, and all the RX wiring is at the fuel tank.

DP

Probably slightly off topic in a 50cc thread, but likely of interest to several of us.... The following appears in the Power Box manual:

Are any of you doing this in your larger planes and what servos are you leaving connected to the receiver? My friend plans to use 2 receivers on his SuperX. and was wondering if the throttle servo would be fine for one & the Ignition cut-off OR the Sullivan Smoke Pump would be fine for the other.

Buzz

Does anyone know why the stabs are nor removable? I know QQ would know but I can't see what the advantage would be.

Leaving the throttle servo and the cut-off connected directly to the RX is acceptable, that is what I have done on all my PB setups with no problems at all.. Like the manual says though, one MUST leave at least one servo connected direct.. usually the throttle.

DP

Aerosheldon - single piece stab epoxied in the fuse... not removable.

DP thanks, I'm running a smartfly power expander and connecting a servo to the rx is not specified in their manual. I've had a single rx hit recently and am curious to see if there is a possible link.

Buzz

The stabs were fixed for several reasons -

1> Weight - the hardware and individual mounts for two stabs is considerably more than a single piece

2> Precision and Simplicity - the fuselage can be jigged and cut during manufacture to set the incidence, reduces variability that a wing tube socket could induce. The glued stab also stays put eliminating the common wing tube socket loosening that most planes experience. Note that the EF Yak had a big problem with the stab tube sockets that required rework to reset incidence.

3> Cost - two pieces cost more than one and QQ / Wayne wanted to keep the cost down and profit up


Personally, I hate removable stabs, they are a pain. The only advantage for them (other than to remove them if you have a small car, etc) is that the incidence can be adjusted relatively easily. Once in place however, I have never taken mine off for any reason so having all that extra hardware is nothing but a weight liability and a maintenance problem. Every one of my planes developed stab tube play so I glued them in place anyway.

DP

Buzz - the Power expander and Powerbox use different buffer strategies. There is no need to run any servos directly with the power expander, they can all go through the device. Hits can happen no matter what protection you have installed...

DP

Thanks DP. I have a short SUV (Jeep Liberty) and only have 6 or so feet in the back. I like this Yak best but I'm not sure it'll fit.

DP - thanks

Aerosheldon - this fits in the back of my 4 runner with the rudder sticking between the front seats. Don't know how the 4runner compares to the Jeep. Hope this helps!

Buzz

Bummer, I didn't know the stabs weren't removable on the QQ.

>>Personally, I hate removable stabs, they are a pain.

Me too...but.....

>>>The only advantage for them (other than to remove them if you have a small car, etc) is that the incidence can be adjusted relatively easily.

Nope, that's not the only advantage, there's another really big reason, which I guess you've never had to do. If you ever want to sell a plane this size, and ship it cheaply(UPS/Fedex) you have to be able to remove the stabs or you can't get the box with the fuse under the maximum dimensions(length + girth) for these carriers. Believe me, if you ever do want to ship one, this is a huge deal. I was considering the QQ as a replacement at some point when I want to upgrade my KMP Yak(and sell and ship it), but that's a deal breaker for me.

Not a big deal for me... I never ship planes that I have flown for personal use.. I either fly them until the wings fall off or give them away to someone local. Those planes I build for others and ship I would simply prep everything and leave the stab off for them to attach.

I have crated some very large planes (40%) and used Forward Air to ship them.. about $100 for a large crate and $3000 insurance. Fedex and UPS destroy too much stuff for me to ever ship a GS plane that way...


I would certainly not consider it a make / break point for purchase that's for sure.. .
DP

Hi DP,

I am in no way saying it should be a make or break for anyone except me, but I thought it might be worthwhile to point out because other people do sell their planes and don't hold on to them forever, and might not think of this. Obviously, if you keep your planes forever, or give them away(I wish I lived near you. ), this would not be an issue for you.

BTW, I've also shipped many 40% planes by Forward Air and never had one cost as little as $100, but of course, it all depends on how far you're shipping it. Typically a crate with a 40% plane in it will cost about $150 to go halfway across the country and $250 to go coast-to-coast, so I imagine if you're just shipping a state or so away, it will probably be around the $100 mark.

Here is a pic of my smoke system installed. It is easily removable if I want to and raises the allup weight of the plane to 16 #'s. The entire fuel/smoke sytem sits on the CG so has little effect on flight other than weight

SPLAIS, do you have any pictures of your ZDZ 80 installation? I have a QQ 85" Yak and ZDZ 80 on order and would like to see any pictures you may have. Any suggestions for engine installation would be greatly appreciated! Any info on weight and balance, prop size and pitch? I'm planning on running a CF 3 blade (26x10) and CF spinner.

Anyone else out there with a ZDZ 80 in the QQ 85" Yak?

Thanks in advance!

backroadrider69

Leftovers??

Was hoping to maiden today...too darn windy[:@]


Curious.... I have 2 little wooden "washers" left over.... will my plane self destruct since these wern't installed somewhere??

What were they for??

Splais.... was just looking at your pictures........

Wow... your airframe looks like it has a full floor board down there.... Mine is just stringers and covering....did you add the floor?? seems weird that they are soo different

69,

My Yak has a DA50 in her. Sorry can't help you with the ZDZ. I did have a ZDZ80 on a WH Extra. It was pretty much same as the DA except the throttle and choke setup was a little more complicated.

Exeter,

It is an alusion. Mine is just like yours. I did not put any kind of floor in it. I mounted the smoke tank to two balsa rails I epoxied across the bottom of the fuselage just below and just behind the fuel tank. They are glued to the bottom of the fuselage side formers. Your fuel tank is a couple inches farther forward than mine. I mounted the receiver battery and smoke pump on top of the landing gear structure in the bottom of the fuselage.

Hey Guys
Have been following the thread for a couple of weeks know I had a TOC yak but like Bob I had radio problems not sure if it was because I had RX. batt and the ign. batt togather in the eng. box and I had both of my switches on fuse one on each sideup front .anyway on my QQ I am going to be more carefull it was a expensive crash!!!!!!!!! anyway those little wooden washers go on the carbon rods on the back side of canopy.......

what carbon rods????

there are the two in the front...but none in the back... is that a leftover from the 102" plane??

When you assemble the canopy, there are 2 small carbon rods that protrude through the front of the canopy (its how the canopy is retained) The wooden washers are used to retain the carbon rods on the backside of the canopy and add strength... they are included in the 85" kit .. at least they were in mine....


DP

Got it!!!

I thought he was saying somewhere towards the back of the canopy.....

Excellent...will glue them in today!