Air Hogs Aero Ace!
#2726
ORIGINAL: FERNDALE AIR FORCE
Flyinlo, I'll let some one else comment on the charger itself.
Flyinlo, I'll let some one else comment on the charger itself.
#2727
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From: lost coast,
CA
I used the wrong term, I meant thrust line. I went in another direction, however, I attached the lower wings to the uppers flat. No dihedral at all, the plane flies well, and turns well. A neighbor complimented me on the flight! Good feedback! I have the motors tucked under the wing, I think I'm generating more power than the wing can handle. I did glue the motors in place today. Now comes the cutting back of the wing. Pic's to follow. I generated the lift I needed. I also put more weight in the nose. Tim
#2729
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From: lost coast,
CA
Flyinlo, that is because I don't know anything at all about the charger. I am a former auto tech. A lighter is usually fused at 10a. If you had a problem with the charger it would be better to blow the courtesy fuse. I assume you are using the trailer plug for your trailer, blowing that fuse could have any number of consequences. I mentioned my charging system only as how I handle the charging of my planes. Tim
#2731
ORIGINAL: FERNDALE AIR FORCE
I used the wrong term, I meant thrust line. I went in another direction, however, I attached the lower wings to the uppers flat. No dihedral at all, the plane flies well, and turns well. A neighbor complimented me on the flight! Good feedback! I have the motors tucked under the wing, I think I'm generating more power than the wing can handle. I did glue the motors in place today. Now comes the cutting back of the wing. Pic's to follow. I generated the lift I needed. I also put more weight in the nose. Tim
I used the wrong term, I meant thrust line. I went in another direction, however, I attached the lower wings to the uppers flat. No dihedral at all, the plane flies well, and turns well. A neighbor complimented me on the flight! Good feedback! I have the motors tucked under the wing, I think I'm generating more power than the wing can handle. I did glue the motors in place today. Now comes the cutting back of the wing. Pic's to follow. I generated the lift I needed. I also put more weight in the nose. Tim
the motors mounted on the leading edge? Or move the motors forward
and cut some slots into the wings? You have the wing area.
I'm attempting to build a Fokker Dr1 for the AA now. Red's triplane. The
motors will be mounted on the second wing, in slots to hide the motors, with
a dummy prop up front. micro has told me that a tripe is very difficult to trim
so I'm looking for ways to make this easy. So far it's turning into a project-
as usual.
#2732
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From: Shakopee,
MN
Megabyte-2,
Thank you for getting my order to me so fast. How in the ____ am I going to get these tiny parts on the rx??? They are smaller than I expected. Wish me luck..
Ferndale,
Your plane and stand look great...Are the motors still 1/2" out ? If you going to weight to the nose , add landing gear...
Thank you for getting my order to me so fast. How in the ____ am I going to get these tiny parts on the rx??? They are smaller than I expected. Wish me luck..
Ferndale,
Your plane and stand look great...Are the motors still 1/2" out ? If you going to weight to the nose , add landing gear...
#2733
Djstinger
I try to tell people to compare the picture to your Rx to relieve the shock factor. If you follow the instructions on the website. You can do it with care. The sharper the soldering iron point the better. Prevents bridging and helps the viewing. If for some reason you decide you don't want to attempt it, you can send in the Rx's with the unused parts and I will install them at the normal price. I will also credit the parts cost to the installation so you are not buying the parts twice. Just let me know.
Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html
Edit: I had more than one person email me saying I was stressing the installation to much so I had to do it. I'm just trying to make it affordable to repair the Rx's no matter who does it.
I try to tell people to compare the picture to your Rx to relieve the shock factor. If you follow the instructions on the website. You can do it with care. The sharper the soldering iron point the better. Prevents bridging and helps the viewing. If for some reason you decide you don't want to attempt it, you can send in the Rx's with the unused parts and I will install them at the normal price. I will also credit the parts cost to the installation so you are not buying the parts twice. Just let me know.
Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html
Edit: I had more than one person email me saying I was stressing the installation to much so I had to do it. I'm just trying to make it affordable to repair the Rx's no matter who does it.
#2734
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From: st-jerome,
QC, CANADA
djstinger, here<s a link that will maybe help you on your way ; http://www.infidigm.net/articles/solder/
if you did not purchase the resistors glued to the fet from meabyte, i would sugest that you use regular resistor (1/4 watt) with 30 ga braided wire (or smaller). you just have to solder one end of the wire square with the resistor, once made it's easier to "point and shoot" on your pcb 'cause you only have to point one end at the time... (is that clear??? i feel like it's much clearer in my mind[sm=bananahead.gif]) it's not an easy task but if you take your time and relax it should be fine
if you did not purchase the resistors glued to the fet from meabyte, i would sugest that you use regular resistor (1/4 watt) with 30 ga braided wire (or smaller). you just have to solder one end of the wire square with the resistor, once made it's easier to "point and shoot" on your pcb 'cause you only have to point one end at the time... (is that clear??? i feel like it's much clearer in my mind[sm=bananahead.gif]) it's not an easy task but if you take your time and relax it should be fine
#2735
novielo, did you get that jet flying yet with the N20's? I'm still putz'n
around with the stock motors on my foam jet I made.
Too wet & windy to fly. Hopefully soon I'll get those N20's on it.
around with the stock motors on my foam jet I made.
Too wet & windy to fly. Hopefully soon I'll get those N20's on it.
#2736
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From: Palm Harbor,
FL
Hi everyone, my aero ace stopped running so I disected it, and found that two of my motor wires were disconected from the cickit board, I think they were black and blue wires but I can't remember(I'm at school.) I see where one has to be re-saudered, but I don't know witch one, and the other, I cant find where it would possibly go. I'm wondering if anyone has a picture they can post that is areo ace electronics all put together (an aero ace with out the styrofoam body.)
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2737
There's a blow up of the RX about 40 pages back.
I've got the pic on file but it's at home.
If you can't find it I'll post it again later tonight.
I've got the pic on file but it's at home.
If you can't find it I'll post it again later tonight.
#2739
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From: st-jerome,
QC, CANADA
neurotex, still have to mod the prop to fit it to the n20. have to sand down a dowel, i tought of plastic wood, do you think it could work?
#2740
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From: Shakopee,
MN
Thanks for all the support everyone, I'm sure I can I do it , there just so small...I did the stearing modand the 3 channel mod to my Tx and I thought that was fairly easy.
In the mean time I will be playing with my new Picoo Z , I just picked up at TRU today... Much better than the Helix, that was returned...
In the mean time I will be playing with my new Picoo Z , I just picked up at TRU today... Much better than the Helix, that was returned...
#2741
ORIGINAL: novielo
neurotex, still have to mod the prop to fit it to the n20. have to sand down a dowel, i tought of plastic wood, do you think it could work?
neurotex, still have to mod the prop to fit it to the n20. have to sand down a dowel, i tought of plastic wood, do you think it could work?
Plastic works the best for me and I've had the props on and off several
times now and they still fit tight.
I wouldn't use the plastic wood.
#2744
Hope this helps. The wires have so much goop on them it's hard
to tell much. That black wire looks likes it's hooked to the white.
But I don't think it is.
to tell much. That black wire looks likes it's hooked to the white.
But I don't think it is.
#2745
ORIGINAL: novielo
neurotex, what kind of plastic do you use? was it a snug fit that you ca?
neurotex, what kind of plastic do you use? was it a snug fit that you ca?
over sprue). Helps if it's a nice tight fit. I used CA glue.
#2746
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From: lost coast,
CA
Koolaid, there are 4 solder pads, they are mared m1, b-, m2, m-. The m- is a 2 wire connection. The b- goes to the switch. I'm just guessing, but if you have 2 wires off, and both of the motors do not turn, that is the connection that is off. Are the 2 wires soldered together? That would be a dead giveaway. Good luck, Tim
I recieved my Picco Z today!!
This thing is fun. I have a couple of questions, of course, but will ask them on the appropriate forum. Tim
PS. If everything silverlit makes is this good, I hope Chinese Government doesn't enlist these guys into their Air Force. HA HA. Tim
I recieved my Picco Z today!!

This thing is fun. I have a couple of questions, of course, but will ask them on the appropriate forum. TimPS. If everything silverlit makes is this good, I hope Chinese Government doesn't enlist these guys into their Air Force. HA HA. Tim
#2747
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From: lost coast,
CA
koolaid, FYI the AA jet forum is "new spinmaster jet". It is in this subheading that we are using, "electric indoor & Micro RC flight".
How long will silverlit own this market? This is an open question.
How long will silverlit own this market? This is an open question.
#2748
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From: lost coast,
CA
I exchanged the defective C ch today. I chose a B ch ev3. My last 06 ev3 has really quiet motors and flies awesome. This one has the same quiet motor thing going on. At this point I'm saving it for later. Hopefully the supply opens up. Many people were getting AA's for christmas. Now, we'll see. Tim
#2749
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From: st-jerome,
QC, CANADA
megabyte, if you got time it would be interresting to have a video of your actuator working. i would like to see the angle the rudder can reach and it's speed.
i will try today to have time to repair/mod the prop to put it on my jet with n20 tonight. i used hard wood dowell soaked it in ca and i will also put ca in the id and ream it back again. hope it will work, it works with worned out guitar wood screw threads...
i will try today to have time to repair/mod the prop to put it on my jet with n20 tonight. i used hard wood dowell soaked it in ca and i will also put ca in the id and ream it back again. hope it will work, it works with worned out guitar wood screw threads...
#2750
Sounds like that'll work for the props novielo.
Here's a link that tOOfatt has put together which covers just about
every mod, parts and maintenance available for the AA.
[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552099]AA Mods & Maintenance[/link]
Here's a link that tOOfatt has put together which covers just about
every mod, parts and maintenance available for the AA.
[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=552099]AA Mods & Maintenance[/link]


