Air Hogs Aero Ace!
#3177
ORIGINAL: Neurotex
Thanks for the info- that's pretty much what I gathered. A project (as the electronics
progress) for the future. Wondering if the original poster who tried the calculator cells
had problems and stopped posting on the subject.
ORIGINAL: micro_builder
the solar cells that come out of calculators, ect, are pretty heavy and dont put out a lot of power. there are some very lightweight cells out there that put out more power, but apparently they're hard to get, expensive, and very difficult to work with (one guy said its like trying to solder a potato chip).
the solar cells that come out of calculators, ect, are pretty heavy and dont put out a lot of power. there are some very lightweight cells out there that put out more power, but apparently they're hard to get, expensive, and very difficult to work with (one guy said its like trying to solder a potato chip).
progress) for the future. Wondering if the original poster who tried the calculator cells
had problems and stopped posting on the subject.
I will install it along the upper wing as an additional support. I have also added 2 additional motors to my AA so any extended time would be great.
redmoon
#3178
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From: lost coast,
CA
Has ayone radius-ed a wing for a mono mod? If so how does it fly?
Dj, what's up with your light kits? Assuming that spinmaster or silverlit pushes the planes at all this christmas, sales will climb. Tim
Dj, what's up with your light kits? Assuming that spinmaster or silverlit pushes the planes at all this christmas, sales will climb. Tim
#3179
Djstinger
If you are using 8 cells on the Tx the tap should be in the middle. Or add 1 cell to each end. The Tx schematic posted at rcforums with SilverLit on it is wrong.
The RF output and charger uses the 9v. The 4.5v center tap is used to run the micro controller chip.
If you get the 2 extra cells on one side of the center tap the voltage is lower. On the other side its higher.
Both can be bad. To much to the controller or weird things happening from hardly ran rechargeables due to it is running on 3.75v(3 NiMH) after a full charge.
Wont take much to start dropping Vcc and its normally looking for 4.5v.
Better to keep the centertap in the middle of the 8 cells.
Tony
If you are using 8 cells on the Tx the tap should be in the middle. Or add 1 cell to each end. The Tx schematic posted at rcforums with SilverLit on it is wrong.
The RF output and charger uses the 9v. The 4.5v center tap is used to run the micro controller chip.
If you get the 2 extra cells on one side of the center tap the voltage is lower. On the other side its higher.
Both can be bad. To much to the controller or weird things happening from hardly ran rechargeables due to it is running on 3.75v(3 NiMH) after a full charge.
Wont take much to start dropping Vcc and its normally looking for 4.5v.
Better to keep the centertap in the middle of the 8 cells.
Tony
#3180
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From: lost coast,
CA
Redmoon. what is the output on that cell? The post on the solar cells indicated that he used the cells out of 2 calculaters from the dollar store. He the mounted them in the "windshield area". If you have a 5 x 3/4 cell where are you going to put it? I seriously believe in the creativity of our community, but the cell would need to be the main wing. And it would need to be wired to the charge port. Whatever, it is your plane, have fun. Tim
#3182
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From: Rancho Cordova,
CA
ORIGINAL: rc18t145
I know how to make this ariplane that will almost float when you throw it. And has the perfect setup for electronics.
I know how to make this ariplane that will almost float when you throw it. And has the perfect setup for electronics.
#3183
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From: Fort Worth,
TX
i would be warry about trying to charge a lipo cell with anything other than a lipo charger - including a solar cell. the 130mah's in the AA arent that big, but they can start a fire if they're "abused."
please dont get me wrong though, i'm not trying to say flying with solar wont work. its been done a few times that i've seen, one of them was 100% solar power, no battery at all - very cool (how does unlimited flying time sound - daylight permitting, of course!). i dont know enough about electronics to say how a safe way would be to rig up the solar cell, but i do know not to mess with a lipoly cell, its not worth the risk for a few minutes more of flying time. just some food for thought
nick
please dont get me wrong though, i'm not trying to say flying with solar wont work. its been done a few times that i've seen, one of them was 100% solar power, no battery at all - very cool (how does unlimited flying time sound - daylight permitting, of course!). i dont know enough about electronics to say how a safe way would be to rig up the solar cell, but i do know not to mess with a lipoly cell, its not worth the risk for a few minutes more of flying time. just some food for thought

nick
#3184
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From: Shakopee,
MN
Fern and anyone interested in a light kit, I was thinking about $15.00 ea. shipped or 2 fer $25.00 shipped. A friend of mine was over last night for a night flight, he has the aamod lights, my lights were twice as bright. I am working with some yellow/ orange , blue/green. The only lights that I am selling for now are the blue/green set. I have some 4v 30mAh 16,000 mcd 5mm clears that you should not look at directly, I am going to those on my T-maxx but they work on the AA. I had hooked up as a search light pointing down , it was sweat with 3 lights on at the same time.
Tony, Thank you for info I will fix it when go home for lunch. I just hooked the batteries at the 5 cell / 3 cell its been like that for 6mo. now and I have never had a problem with it all, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I will be fixing this one I hope it doesn't screw up after I split to 4 / 4.
Tony, Thank you for info I will fix it when go home for lunch. I just hooked the batteries at the 5 cell / 3 cell its been like that for 6mo. now and I have never had a problem with it all, if it ain't broke don't fix it. I will be fixing this one I hope it doesn't screw up after I split to 4 / 4.
#3185
ORIGINAL: Djstinger
Fern and anyone interested in a light kit, I was thinking about $15.00 ea. shipped or 2 fer $25.00 shipped. A friend of mine was over last night for a night flight, he has the aamod lights, my lights were twice as bright. I am working with some yellow/ orange , blue/green. The only lights that I am selling for now are the blue/green set. I have some 4v 30mAh 16,000 mcd 5mm clears that you should not look at directly, I am going to those on my T-maxx but they work on the AA. I had hooked up as a search light pointing down , it was sweat with 3 lights on at the same time.
Fern and anyone interested in a light kit, I was thinking about $15.00 ea. shipped or 2 fer $25.00 shipped. A friend of mine was over last night for a night flight, he has the aamod lights, my lights were twice as bright. I am working with some yellow/ orange , blue/green. The only lights that I am selling for now are the blue/green set. I have some 4v 30mAh 16,000 mcd 5mm clears that you should not look at directly, I am going to those on my T-maxx but they work on the AA. I had hooked up as a search light pointing down , it was sweat with 3 lights on at the same time.
#3186
Djstinger
Its not an instant death thing. Just good practice. Most just add both cells to one end and there are a bunch out there. Never heard of any failures of killing Tx's. But it might explain weird situations if on the low side after the cells voltage drops if the controller IC is on the low side.
Probably the reason you havent seen any ill effects is the fact that NiMH's hold voltage values well then have a sharp dropoff when getting low as opposed to alkalines waining down.
Just food for thought, not an emergency.
Tony
Its not an instant death thing. Just good practice. Most just add both cells to one end and there are a bunch out there. Never heard of any failures of killing Tx's. But it might explain weird situations if on the low side after the cells voltage drops if the controller IC is on the low side.
Probably the reason you havent seen any ill effects is the fact that NiMH's hold voltage values well then have a sharp dropoff when getting low as opposed to alkalines waining down.
Just food for thought, not an emergency.
Tony
#3187
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From: Shakopee,
MN
Mega, They are good rechargeables 2650 mAh. They last just about the same amount of time as alkaline. I am interested in what effects the change will have. I was in aatoolbax looking at your jet, way cool project.
Fern, I think I need to do your wing support mod to my mono, what do you recommend for material to use?
I will post some pictures of the lights later. Oh ya, these lights can be made to fit the jet also...
Fern, I think I need to do your wing support mod to my mono, what do you recommend for material to use?
I will post some pictures of the lights later. Oh ya, these lights can be made to fit the jet also...
#3188

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From: Richmond,
VA
Sorry to switch a subject here, but I was unable to get a reply via PM from the mod's originator, so I'll try the open forum.
Those who have been to AA toolbox have seen the "slow turn mod." I can easily drive a soldering iron around a PCB, but I need a little clarification as to the wiring WRT what is going on UNDER the PCB. The pic shows the two diodes go through what looks to be drilled holes in the board.
On another matter, I am aware of the various throttle stick mods to increase the number of steps between low and high. Is there a way to simnply decrease the available "throttle" at the first step. My monowing modded AA still climbs a touch at low position. A hiar less would allow for level flight. It would be nice not to have to wire LEDs on them model just to decrease motor RPM.
Thanks for the help.
Ben Minor
Those who have been to AA toolbox have seen the "slow turn mod." I can easily drive a soldering iron around a PCB, but I need a little clarification as to the wiring WRT what is going on UNDER the PCB. The pic shows the two diodes go through what looks to be drilled holes in the board.
On another matter, I am aware of the various throttle stick mods to increase the number of steps between low and high. Is there a way to simnply decrease the available "throttle" at the first step. My monowing modded AA still climbs a touch at low position. A hiar less would allow for level flight. It would be nice not to have to wire LEDs on them model just to decrease motor RPM.
Thanks for the help.
Ben Minor
#3190
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From: mpls,
MN
Hello, all, I have a charging problem. It seems that my charger wire is all screwy. I think it broke in the connection thing. Now my Ace can't charge, and I can't fly. Any fixing suggetions?
#3192
ORIGINAL: googledperson
a contact on mine seperated could someone post a pic of the rx and board (where all the contacts go)
a contact on mine seperated could someone post a pic of the rx and board (where all the contacts go)
#3193
ORIGINAL: FERNDALE AIR FORCE
Redmoon. what is the output on that cell? The post on the solar cells indicated that he used the cells out of 2 calculaters from the dollar store. He the mounted them in the "windshield area". If you have a 5 x 3/4 cell where are you going to put it? I seriously believe in the creativity of our community, but the cell would need to be the main wing. And it would need to be wired to the charge port. Whatever, it is your plane, have fun. Tim
Redmoon. what is the output on that cell? The post on the solar cells indicated that he used the cells out of 2 calculaters from the dollar store. He the mounted them in the "windshield area". If you have a 5 x 3/4 cell where are you going to put it? I seriously believe in the creativity of our community, but the cell would need to be the main wing. And it would need to be wired to the charge port. Whatever, it is your plane, have fun. Tim
I plan to have it finished this weekend. If it goes well I let you all know.
God Speed Fliers!...God Speed.
#3194
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From: lost coast,
CA
rdy 11, I have experience this problem myself. In my case I just keep buying new planes, and therefore have new charger bases. This time I am annoyed and I am going to open the charger lead. And fix the bloody thing. I'll post the fix. Tim
#3198
Went to a built up wing- less chord & more length- 18"
Width of the airfoil = 13mm tapers down to 7mm. A lot more lift.
Oddly had to angle the tail boom up about 2" to push the wing.
I don't know how much advertising has to be done to generate sales
in this market but if it's like any other, it takes time, usually half the
time spent on a business.
Tony, do you still have the parts to do one more RX mod?
Width of the airfoil = 13mm tapers down to 7mm. A lot more lift.
Oddly had to angle the tail boom up about 2" to push the wing.
I don't know how much advertising has to be done to generate sales
in this market but if it's like any other, it takes time, usually half the
time spent on a business.
Tony, do you still have the parts to do one more RX mod?
#3199
Djstinger
Thanks.
I doubt you see any difference unless you have had unknown problems you cant explain.
You must recharge before the voltage drops to the critical point, whatever voltage that is. Never seen it posted.
If the IC Micro controller was TTL its voltage range is 4.75-5.25v. so......even low stock wired alkalines would be flakey.
It must be CMOS. Its low voltage threshold could be 1.8-3.0v before problems occured.
Dr.Ben
The first AA/X-Twins had those 2 diodes installed from the factory. (D7 & D8), by the gimbal on the PCB. The turning radius was stated to be abt 50'. People started disconnecting the common point and found that the turning radius was much quicker. SilverLit quit putting them in. They are still marked on the board.
Seems now people have planes that they want a slower turn and are putting them back in and a sw on the common point to activate it. Diodes are the 1N914/1N4001 signal ones, same as the Zero throttle turning mod.
Tony
Thanks.
I doubt you see any difference unless you have had unknown problems you cant explain.
You must recharge before the voltage drops to the critical point, whatever voltage that is. Never seen it posted.
If the IC Micro controller was TTL its voltage range is 4.75-5.25v. so......even low stock wired alkalines would be flakey.
It must be CMOS. Its low voltage threshold could be 1.8-3.0v before problems occured.
Dr.Ben
The first AA/X-Twins had those 2 diodes installed from the factory. (D7 & D8), by the gimbal on the PCB. The turning radius was stated to be abt 50'. People started disconnecting the common point and found that the turning radius was much quicker. SilverLit quit putting them in. They are still marked on the board.
Seems now people have planes that they want a slower turn and are putting them back in and a sw on the common point to activate it. Diodes are the 1N914/1N4001 signal ones, same as the Zero throttle turning mod.
Tony
#3200
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From: Overland Park, KS
ORIGINAL: Cobalt Saber
Can you teach me to make it??
Please....
CS
That would be a cool idea.
Can you teach me to make it??

Please....
CS
That would be a cool idea.


