When i was taxiing my new aa it was much more powerful with the floats as you have done and it almost began to take off with the aid of my pool heater (moving water) but it seemed as though the water was grabbing my floats and holding it down. I don't think well ever get a formal aa to lift off the water.

hmmm.............

what do we have here???

Ayrton [sm=stupid.gif]

[link=http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RC-X-Twin-Mini-Type-Flyer-Biplane-Airplane-Plane_W0QQitemZ280009529945QQihZ018QQcategoryZ1916 4QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem](Ebay UK listing)[/link]

I'm not buying that. I don't like the tx.[sm=lol.gif]

hey guys im thinking of adding a ribbon to the tail to keep my plane from stalling so much (its a new one) because a penny didnt work. Any ideas on the specifications like length width material, what worked best for you? by the way mine is a C blue 2005 mono normal sized wing.

Because it was!
Friction is a force resisting motion of an object when in contact with another.
This resistive force is caused by the surface roughness of the contact area of
the materials, molecular attraction or adhesion between materials, and deformations
in the materials. The cause of friction may be any or all of these items and this applies
to sliding, rolling and fluid frictions.

And that's straight from Dr. Science!

Maybe if you smoothed out the bottoms of the floats and sprayed the bottoms
with non-stick cooking spray. Oil & water don't mix.

The capacitors did seem to help and they didn't impede performance.
I won't say for sure that they protected the RX.
No protection is 100% safe!

Neurotex' repeated concern re: rx toastage proves all too true even before I get to tweak the tailfin as recommended... But then I had to know for myself.

After many, many fun-filled flights with aluminum can wing extensions and all the bendy surface mods one could imagine to them, I lost an engine. I think that I've lost it; I still have to prove it. But looking pretty obvious. One side of rx power circuit lost. Ordering 8 to 10 mosfets to prep the fleet + my buddy's aa, depending on whether I have the green meanie's rx tweaked by the pro's, or do it myself. AA emergency budget requisition approved! Hoping to spend the downtime working out my first ever r/c one-design - thinking highly of aluminum sheeting - medium weight I guess, somewhat tough if reinforced (I hope), readily available - made a couple of novice wings that I'm hopeful are a promising direction. I've had so much fun with this first plane that I can't feel bad, and the tx/rx may live on! To infinity and beyond!
jd

jonny didmo;

First, a broken propeller should never be repaired. There is to little surface and to many rpms. If it lets go, and it probably will, you could lose an eye. $2.00 for another prop is way cheaper than an eye.
The capacitors reduce electrical interference to the Rx from the arcing of the brushes or comm arms. They do nothing else. And the N20's will probably kill the AA Rx outputs. They draw more current than a standard AA motor. If you have a meter to measure the current of the N20 w/prop it would let you know for sure. A standard AA motor draws 380ma with the prop at full throttle.
The mod that was referred to previously will let you use motors that will draw 4.3A per side. So motor size isn't really an issue if they are installed.
We have the parts in stock if you can solder something that small or we can do it for you.

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/ars~/rcmodels.html

megabyte, I did give up on that prop repair. All the trouble I was going to trying to align it brought to mind that it would be easier to cast a new prop than to repair what I had. It nearly did catch an eye when it snapped on the wire. I want to experiment with bigger motors and props anyhow, for the moment.

i've ordered the parts from you, thanks. What kind of soldering iron do you recommend for this? I can at least machine down the tips of the irons that I have. Should I get some clamps? I should be able to do it, have a steady hand. Where does one get the bigger motors that you've mentioned?

i know the n20 (1.5 volt) draw 180 ma UNLOADED at 3v it's something like 250 ma, again unloaded. i'll check the draw when it loaded. i will atemp the fet mod soom. waiting for digikey!!

sorry to hear that jd, but it looks like you got more out of that plane
than anyone could imagine. Hope you have good luck with the FET mod.

Another thread on this forum talks about a four motor set up for the AA.
If the motors are in line would the current draw still be 380ma? Or is 4
motors still too much for the stock RX?

MegaByte-2, I've got a fried RX that I've been using just for charging.
A motor wire is off and I'm not sure what else is wrong with it. It needs
a tune up. Can you repair the motor wires and check it out completely
along with the FET mod?

I have a soldering iron suggestion. [link=http://www.mcminone.com]MCM Electronics[/link] sells a 25W iron for about $5. The number is 21-8125. They have some smaller tips that fit too but the one that comes with it might work. I have one of these and have not used it for AA's but it is good for camcorders and laptops.

neurotex,i just look at your "moovable wing" on the last page. how mouch will it weight? 'cause i might have a sugestion for you that could be much more acurate then a spring loading.

googled, I am using 3/8 SILK ribbon 18- 36 inches. Start long and trim back to size. I actually keep an eighteen inch and 30+ inch ribbon ready to go. Switch'em as necessary. Tim

Megabyte, Emails I've sent in response to your request are being bounced, your business email address is being blocked by spamcop I think. Do you have an alternate email address that you could email me from? You may not be receiving anything on your falcon address from me or anybody. Here's the transaction number - Transaction ID: 37329472A7620560H. says unclaimed by you. Anyhow, no worries, we'll get it sorted.
jd

Chris 1379, where in dayton are you? MCM and Parts Express in Springboro are my 2 favorite places to shop. We need to try to get together and fly...

The weight completed is 18.2 grams.
Haven't flown it yet but it glides nice with a good send off.
Had to hot glue the lipo under the wing though since the CG wouldn't
let me put it in the nose.
Waiting for the wind to die down so I can actually fly it.

Any ideas you have I'd like to hear. The spring I used for loading
is from a ball point pen. Right now I'm using the set up to get a
good wing angle for best gliding by securing the end of the CF rod.
Then I'll adjust it to move when actually flying it.

Hey guys i got another problem with one of my aas. Wel its actually my brothers. We were flying over the pool and he splashed it. He had done this many times before so it worked and we kept flying it . Later the motors were getting a little screwy and not turning so he opened it and let it dry out. TOday the motors respond correctly for about 5 seconds and then completely cut out. The plane is fully charged as it will not charge and the engines are full power. Any advice would be great because we were looking forward to flying ours together on our vacation in 2 days. By the way his is a 2006 B channel yellow and green aa with a mono wing mod nothing hardware modded. Also, we tried replacing the TX's batteries and that didnt help. It wouldnt make sense for the recievers or electronics to be fried because it worked right afterwards and for another flight but a day later it no longer works. Any help is great thanks in advance. EDIT: the plane is only about 3 weeks old maybe 30-40 charge cycles.

Give it time to dry out completely BEFORE attempting to fly. It may be toast now though...

Tom

Ya know, getting LiPo's wet can kill them, make them so they won't charge, make them swell, catch on fire and/or explode. They're wrapped to help protect them, but be careful around water.

I don't care for Lipos right now, too much risk IMHO but with the AA we have no choice. Keep the plane DRY.

Tom

jonny didmo;

I have your order ready and no shipping address.
The least amount of heat the better or the trace pads will peel. I use a Radio Shack 15 watt pencil iron.
Tape the Rx down on the ends. Then position the parts with a toothpick and "pin" them down with it. Once you get the first solder joint and its in place , the rest should go smoothly.
I've been getting orders, email and paypal notifications of payment. I found a problem though and sent you an email.

Neurotex,

Sure can. Just send it in. All the info you need is in the PayPal Info at the bottom of the webpage.

Has anyone else been getting bounced back email from my site?
If you'd like to help check it. Just click the Orders/Inquires mailbox and put "test". When I receive it I'll just hit reply to you.
If it's not answered in 24hrs....I didnt receive it
I'll create an alternate email address and post it on my website.
Cant keep those AA's flying if you cant get parts & service!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks,

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html

Edit: Contacted my ISP. They decided to filter email without notification. Seems they thought even PayPay was to dangerous to pass. All filters have been removed.

googled, and anyone else, plugging hole at the rear of the rx with hot glue will do a lot to keep water out. Also, if you swam the plane out of the pool with the motors the extra drag could mess them up. I woould put the plane somewhere warm and dry and let it sit for a couple of days. I had one that went into the fountain(24" dia.) twice, through the slip and slide jets a couple of times, and finally flew/slid into the pool at the end of the slip and slide. It was bitter for a while, but after a couple of days it came back. That canned air might help clean it out. If you have a compressor I recommend NOT using it. Compressors make wet air.

Neurotex I am building a 2 battery/4 motor mono. I will be interested in whether the rx can support it. Here are pics. It was done I thought when I took these. I was wrong. The motor wires fell off. Now I don't know if I ruined the card trying to solder the leads back on.

When I was posting those pics I found a couple of pics I took on friday. These qualify as I could not do this on purpose, in flight. They look staged, but they so amused me I thought I should share them. Not staged, and no fences were damaged. Tim

googled, i did had my aa wet a couple of time in the pool (you know the only place you don't want it to go... damn murphy's law..). well i used the vacuum to dry it, i put the tube under the rx. this way it sucked where the hole is and water seems to find it's way between the plastic and foam.

also i oiled the on/off switch with seewing (sorry i don't know how to spell it...[&o]) machine oil, you also use 3 in 1 oil. it prevent it from rusting.