Ok gang....After some thought I decided to venture out to my LHS and get a H9 Corsair,,,,
Not wanting the same H9 Corsair as others at the local Flying Field, I decided on a unique WWII color scheme of Pilot Lt Col Donald K Yost, CO of VMF-351, USS Cape Gloucester, July 1945 (see pic Below) I love the Bands around the rear of the Fuse in that Burnt Yellow and the BIG FF59 down the side of the Corsair.... I already ordered new Vinyl Graphics from Graphics Construction "Mike Bost" ([email protected] or ph#704 279 1483) he does great work and has never let me down...
So first things First...ALL THE H9 ORIGINAL Graphics came off.... Looks nice all Blue and
naked",,,, I also wet sanded the cowl to prep for paint as the # 416 was painted on at the H9 Factory and doesn't go with my new Color Scheme...

Next I did what everyone who has a H9 Corsair knows to do... I reinforced the Firewall with fiberglass cloth, some wood stock and also fiberglassed with 3/4 oz glass to the main fuse servo area just for some additional strength as you can see there are not many extra stringers in these areas.. this doesn't add much weight but will keep things INTACT when my Corsair gets a ST G90 installed under the cowling to really move "FF59" past other Warbirds at the Field[>:]...
I also epoxied the wheel well area in the wings as well as under the landing gear (had to remove the retracts to do it right) and also applied some light weight 3/4 oz cloth in the wheel well area sheeting to give some additional strength and support.. I also reached around as much as I could and spread some more epoxy mix( epoxy thinned with alcohol) to all areas I could reach inside the wing...Hoping I could strengthen and glue any joints that werent fully glued at the factory[:@]

While all this epoxy and glass was setting up I decided I also wanted to add a "Fun" element to this H9 CORSAIR... hmmmm
Oh yes I have one of those Vortac Bomb Release Mechanisms (you can now get a similar one thru yellowaircraft)...
So I installed the VORTAC Bomb Release ....
I decided I wanted it to be an easy install and also easy to service should I need to... so..
I unscrewed the fiberglass belly pan...Measured for Centerline and drew a line... Got the Vortac Mechanism in my hand and lined it up on the forward most point on the Belly Pan...I ONLY made holes for the screws to mount and TWO SEPERATE SLOTS for the Vortac "control horns" to pass thru the Belly pan.. I added thin ply for the screws to bite into... I also applied thin CA to the Center Wing Screw holes to harden them up and added lite ply to the only 2 screws that are visible on the center section for added "bite" for the screws...
Next I got a Hitec Mini Servo and mounted it to a wood plate and added a balsa shim...Checked for clearance and decided best area would be in front of the wing bolt mounting plate...with some Thick CA and some luck got it installed..
Added a 2/56 rod and plastic clevis and adjusted the travel at the servo with my Futaba Computer Radio...
Next tightened everything up and Viola' Instant Bombing Run Capable Corsair...
I also have other "ordinance" I can carry as I am installing Vortac Release clips to them so they can be released at will!! ... It is gonna be FUN!!!!

Keep it coming.... looks fantastic and I can't wait for it get airborne.

Did you happen to find any other pictures of this plane (top view, front view, etc...) in addition to the pic that I scanned from my book?

Richard L.,
I did find a diecast model online that has the same markings ..I will post it later when I get to "finishing" The DieCast model is either very weathered or is in a very light blue .... Either way it has the same markings on it... Close enough for Govt Work
Thanks again Richard for your assistance with not only the picture I was looking for but all the other info you learned from yours.. I hope mine comes out as well as I think it may and that it flies as nicely as yours did...[8D]
I will post more progress tonite or tomorrow nite..[sm=thumbup.gif]

Excellent! Can't wait to see more pics.

I will also start to put my H9 F2G-2 "Super Corsair" together.

WHAT!! You are going to make another H9 Corsair?[>:]

F2G-2 "Super Corsair":

Richard,

Too Cool!!!

Which YS is going in this one?

Have you done a trial balance yet? Seems she may be nose heavy and need the battery farther aft than usual.

Post updates

Pete

HOLY MODS, BATMAN!!!

do you have any detailed pics of the mods for that Richard? Where did you get the canopy? How did you mod the front and did you modify the "stock" H9 canopy? I would LOVE to see any detailed shots of the mods and where you got the necessary pieces to change it over...

thanks!!!

randy

Randy, I did not build this Corsair. Dave Galvin of Seattle modified the H9 Corsair into this Super Corsair. I believe he used a Sig canopy. The firewall was moved back to accomodate the longer P&W R-4360-4 Wasp Major engine rated at 3000 HP. I will start another thread on the assembly of this Super Corsair when I have some free time.

LMAO

Pete

Now that I have installed the Bomb release I went ahead and Joined the wing panels and I set aside to dry overnight (Sunday)...
This morning I re-installed the retracts and then grabbed the Fuse to install the blind nuts for the wing hold down and before I seated them in all the way I measured to ensure the wing is seated properly with equal distances from center to wing tips...This went off without a hitch...good engineering here H9 to get that wing just right!!
Pics show my H9 "FF59" in all blue against the white wall ...she is gonna look great!!

Next since I had momentum on my side today I took the fuse to the "drilling room"[:@] and measured the firewall for a new GreatPlanes engine mount that will hold a ST G90 secure... I used the supplied template and measured twice then drilled for the new mount.. I am mounting the ST G90 at 90 degrees (sidemounted) and will be using the Slimline Pitts Muffler.. I inserted some ply into the back of the firewall to have wood that the newly located blindnuts will reside! Easy to do and It looks pretty clean..

Next order of the day...Mounting the ST G90...Measured out per manual specs and mounted...I tapped my engine mount and eliminated the need for nuts and extra hardware...I usually mount my engines this way and it works great..
I also mounted the cowling hardwood mounting blocks...I used socket head screws to attach the cowling instead of the phillips type machine screws.. I like the looks as well as the less likelyhood of slipping the screwdriver and damaging something..

I then measured for centerling on the engine and also clearance for my prop(s) and mounted the cowling without the engines muffler..
THen using the old measuring trick using wood or cardboard I spotted where to make all the cuts and openings for the muffler, GlowPlug Ni-Starter...and I dremeled them out... I also started to "butcher" the radial engine cover so that I could use it with the ST G90... I DID have to Remove quite a bit of It but I think It will workout nicely when I finish detailing it.. I also cut out a lite-ply radial engine backplate to provide more rigidity and lifespan to the plastic engine cover..I will go into greater detail on this little gem later..

Last install tonite was to epoxy the horizontal stab into place... Once I marked the horizontal stabs midline and measured for equal distance and center I removed the covering to prep for epoxy... I used a soldering Iron to melt the covering off INSTEAD of using a hobby knife or a razor blade so as not to score the wood which would not only remove covering but also weaken the structure...
Next I mixed my 30 minute epoxy and applied some midnight blue enamel paint to it to match my Corsair...I like to hide epoxy lines at joint as much as possible.. Once the epoxy dries it will blend right into the covering and it will hide the joint much nicer than plain old epoxy color alone[>:]
Since I cannot move the Corsair much without disturbing the balance and centering of the elevator stab..I will call it a night and resume again very soon!! can't wait to make more progress!![>:]

I am in the works of building my corsair and I was having doubts about the strength of the fuse. In your pictures it just looks like you used epoxy everywhere. I don't see any evidence of Fiberglass. You say you used 3/4 oz. Glass? I am pretty new at glassing so I am just trying to see how to do it. Your pictures give me a pretty good idea what to do but I don't know how to apply the cloth. Do you apply the epoxy on the airplane then put in the cloth? Or do you apply the epoxy on the cloth then put it in the airplane? Please be patient with me. I'm a little slow.

PS Where did you get that spinner?

Nitrodan73,
If you apply the glass cloth (get it at your Local Hobby Store(LHS)...use a dry epoxy brush or your hands and smooth it out into the area you want to glass...Then mix 30 minute or 45 minute epoxy in a mixing cup and then add about 1/3 alcohol 70% (rubbing alcohol) works great to thin the mixture.. Mix it well so it looks like a thinned paint..then using your epoxy brush "paint it " onto your glass cloth....THen once dry apply a second coat of epoxy mix that is thinned less so that more epoxy covers the glass... Dont over do it but it should give you good results... For the Firewall use 2-3 layers of the cloth around the perimeter inside the fuse /firewall joint or just use 1 layer of 2 oz cloth to give more strength to the joint..also triangle stock to the firewall and fuse joint will also add strength..try to keep it neat...if any epoxy mix gets on your covering or areas you dont want it just wipe off with alcohol on a papertowel...If you need more tips I know if you do a search for fiberglass you will find lots of tips..This one is for adding strength not for finishing to prep to paint a surface... Let me know if I may assist you further.,,,
Good luck

That makes it alot more clearer. The last question I have is....Does the glass cloth bunchup when you start applying the epoxy on top of it? Or do you tack it down with a little epoxy then put down the cloth then cover the cloth? I know I sound like an idiot but I want to get it right.

Just start in the middle and work your way out and it should not get wrinkled..if it does dont panic...use your brush or hands(wear latex or nitrile gloves) to smoothen it out...If you are nervous practice on a piece of cardboard first....
we all learn thru practice[:@][8D]

I would buy a deck of playing cards. Use one card to scrape the epoxy from the center outward. Once you are done with one section, just toss the card and get a fresh new one from the deck.

Okay guys, I have a question for you. Below are pictures of the tail assembly. I am supposed to bend the tail wheel wire but I can't do it without putting heavy pressure on the tail. I thought about doing it before I glued the tail in but the guide wouldn't go on around the bend in the wire. Anyone have any suggestions?

I am assuming your vertical stab is well glued/epoxied into place.... Get a pair of needlenose pliers to hold the wire at just below where the wire need to be bent....then use a pair of "wirebenders" I use pliers or a similar to bend the wire without putting extra side force on that Stab...
That is my idea... otherwise use a piece of hvy brass tubing to slip over the wire and use the pliers to hold it while bending it with the tube... dont know if that will work...
Hind sight is 20/20... I plan on using this as a learning tool... I WILL make sure to temporarily attach the vertical stab inplace , then measure where to bend the wire...then remove the stab ...bend the wire and then permanently attach the stab... Thanks for the warning...I am going to be attaching my stab soon..
I think the 1st suggestion will work for you...[8D]