New CAD Kaos project under way.
#1
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Hi all. 8178 suggested I might start a thread on a Kaos I'm building from that old set of CAD plans drawn by Gerry Yarrish that are floating around on the web.
First, I need to say that I have scaled the drawing to a 42" span to suit an available engine (I actually don't own a single .60 anymore). So if this is Classic Pattern sacrilege I'm sorry. In that case, this thread may not even belong in this forum. Anyway, I want a Kaos, and until I can afford to splurge on a new engine I have to build for what I have lying around.
Since I don't have an original set of Bridi/RCM plans I don't know how much these CAD plans differ from the original. I can say that they are the definition of simplicity. All of the wood dimensions scaled perfectly to common sizes except for the spars which came out a bit funny at 3/8 x 3/16 for the mains and 3/16 x /3/32 for the rear ones.
Here is a pic of the plan as it comes and one of the parts - and there aren't very many.
First, I need to say that I have scaled the drawing to a 42" span to suit an available engine (I actually don't own a single .60 anymore). So if this is Classic Pattern sacrilege I'm sorry. In that case, this thread may not even belong in this forum. Anyway, I want a Kaos, and until I can afford to splurge on a new engine I have to build for what I have lying around.
Since I don't have an original set of Bridi/RCM plans I don't know how much these CAD plans differ from the original. I can say that they are the definition of simplicity. All of the wood dimensions scaled perfectly to common sizes except for the spars which came out a bit funny at 3/8 x 3/16 for the mains and 3/16 x /3/32 for the rear ones.
Here is a pic of the plan as it comes and one of the parts - and there aren't very many.
#2
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
If those plans are floating around, can you email a set to [email protected]. I would like to build one scaled to a 25 or so.
John
John
#3
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jlingrel, here's the link:
http://www.hobbys.com.br/cadkaos.zip
and http://www.hobbys.com.br/plantas_zipadas.htm with lots of other plans.
I have also rearranged and divided up the plan into several easily printable files (ribs, formers, stab, etc.) that I will email to you. At my scale of 42" they tile so that there are no seams through the parts. If you scale it up you will have to rearrange things on the drawing page a bit.
http://www.hobbys.com.br/cadkaos.zip
and http://www.hobbys.com.br/plantas_zipadas.htm with lots of other plans.
I have also rearranged and divided up the plan into several easily printable files (ribs, formers, stab, etc.) that I will email to you. At my scale of 42" they tile so that there are no seams through the parts. If you scale it up you will have to rearrange things on the drawing page a bit.
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
Thanks, I appreciate it. Building an Old GP Super Kaos for my kid right now and when it is done, want a pal for my Flea Fli.
John
John
#5

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Thats as classic as you get I'm probably the only one in our club thats never built or owned one. Personally I'd do what you gott A do and blow it up to at least 59" It seems to me you can get a good solid running sixty or 61 at a very affordable price. And put your current engine in some thing else .
#6
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Your welcome, John.
ramcfarland, yeah, I don't expect to get the flight performance of the full size plane. This is kind of something to tide me over until I decide which .60 size plane to build and it's not costing me anything. I'm leaning towards the RCM Super Kaos, but also thinking about the Sun Fli IV since I'll be going to the VRCS meet here in NC in May. I just haven't made my mind up; there are so many great designs.
Here are a couple of pics of the fuse getting started:
ramcfarland, yeah, I don't expect to get the flight performance of the full size plane. This is kind of something to tide me over until I decide which .60 size plane to build and it's not costing me anything. I'm leaning towards the RCM Super Kaos, but also thinking about the Sun Fli IV since I'll be going to the VRCS meet here in NC in May. I just haven't made my mind up; there are so many great designs.
Here are a couple of pics of the fuse getting started:
#8
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Thanks, 8178. I like using the Super 77 paper pattern method to cut parts. I get get them very accurate and the paper prevents delicate parts from breaking until time to use them. A bit of thinner and the paper curls right off. This thing is going together fast. The fuse is glued up and with its 3/16" slab top and right angle formers it built very straight and true; a brilliantly simply design. The stab is also done. It's 1/8" x 3/38" framework sheeted with 1/16" so it equals the 1/4" sheet elevators. The fin and rudder are 3/16" sheet.
Yikes! I had a bit of a scare. The wing drawing in these CAD plans is off by 1/8" chordwise. But, the main spar notches and the LE line up and the fuse wing saddle cut-out matches the ribs. So, all I need to do is disregard the TE as it's drawn on the plans and everything will fit fine. I was afraid I was going to have to cut a new set of ribs at first.
I guess I could have drawn building tabs on the ribs to hold them level, but I didn't. I don't have a wing jig, so I cut out three cradles to support the root, middle and tip ribs parallel to the board. The centerlines of the cradled ribs are all equal distance from the board. Here is a pic of this setup. You can see how the TE was originally drawn 1/8" too far back. But, as I said, the fuse cut-out matches the parts so it's no big deal.
Yikes! I had a bit of a scare. The wing drawing in these CAD plans is off by 1/8" chordwise. But, the main spar notches and the LE line up and the fuse wing saddle cut-out matches the ribs. So, all I need to do is disregard the TE as it's drawn on the plans and everything will fit fine. I was afraid I was going to have to cut a new set of ribs at first.
I guess I could have drawn building tabs on the ribs to hold them level, but I didn't. I don't have a wing jig, so I cut out three cradles to support the root, middle and tip ribs parallel to the board. The centerlines of the cradled ribs are all equal distance from the board. Here is a pic of this setup. You can see how the TE was originally drawn 1/8" too far back. But, as I said, the fuse cut-out matches the parts so it's no big deal.
#9
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ORIGINAL: rainedav
Thanks, 8178. I like using the Super 77 paper pattern method to cut parts. I get get them very accurate and the paper prevents delicate parts from breaking until time to use them. A bit of thinner and the paper curls right off. This thing is going together fast. The fuse is glued up and with its 3/16" slab top and right angle formers it built very straight and true; a brilliantly simply design. The stab is also done. It's 1/8" x 3/38" framework sheeted with 1/16" so it equals the 1/4" sheet elevators. The fin and rudder are 3/16" sheet.
Yikes! I had a bit of a scare. The wing drawing in these CAD plans is off by 1/8" chordwise. But, the main spar notches and the LE line up and the fuse wing saddle cut-out matches the ribs. So, all I need to do is disregard the TE as it's drawn on the plans and everything will fit fine. I was afraid I was going to have to cut a new set of ribs at first.
I guess I could have drawn building tabs on the ribs to hold them level, but I didn't. I don't have a wing jig, so I cut out three cradles to support the root, middle and tip ribs parallel to the board. The centerlines of the cradled ribs are all equal distance from the board. Here is a pic of this setup. You can see how the TE was originally drawn 1/8" too far back. But, as I said, the fuse cut-out matches the parts so it's no big deal.
Thanks, 8178. I like using the Super 77 paper pattern method to cut parts. I get get them very accurate and the paper prevents delicate parts from breaking until time to use them. A bit of thinner and the paper curls right off. This thing is going together fast. The fuse is glued up and with its 3/16" slab top and right angle formers it built very straight and true; a brilliantly simply design. The stab is also done. It's 1/8" x 3/38" framework sheeted with 1/16" so it equals the 1/4" sheet elevators. The fin and rudder are 3/16" sheet.
Yikes! I had a bit of a scare. The wing drawing in these CAD plans is off by 1/8" chordwise. But, the main spar notches and the LE line up and the fuse wing saddle cut-out matches the ribs. So, all I need to do is disregard the TE as it's drawn on the plans and everything will fit fine. I was afraid I was going to have to cut a new set of ribs at first.
I guess I could have drawn building tabs on the ribs to hold them level, but I didn't. I don't have a wing jig, so I cut out three cradles to support the root, middle and tip ribs parallel to the board. The centerlines of the cradled ribs are all equal distance from the board. Here is a pic of this setup. You can see how the TE was originally drawn 1/8" too far back. But, as I said, the fuse cut-out matches the parts so it's no big deal.
-------------------------
To me, few things are as enjoyable as building a Bridi designed model. I still use a lot of his building techniques when I design my own models. You sound as though you are having fun. Good for you. <G>
#10
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Thanks Ed. I've learned a thing or two about how less is more with this plane. I particularly like the laminated LE technique and the way the sheeting keys into it.
It's pretty much hardware time now. The only wood stuff left to do is install the wing dowels, and then sheet the bottom of the fuse and wing after the pushrods and servo mounts are in. I have two medium-size servos that I think I'll mount just behing the LG trunnions instead of doing a single servo/torquerod setup. With the wing bolt blocks in the way there wouldn't be a lot of room for that anyway.
I made a mistake in building the wing. I set up the jig so that the rib center lines were all the same height off the board when I should have made the top spar the referrence line. This is because the top of the wing is flat and the bottom taper creates the dihedral. It only took about 1/64" of angle sanding to the wing roots to fix this. I've never built a wing with this type of taper/dihedral before, so I didn't know to plan this.
More pics:
It's pretty much hardware time now. The only wood stuff left to do is install the wing dowels, and then sheet the bottom of the fuse and wing after the pushrods and servo mounts are in. I have two medium-size servos that I think I'll mount just behing the LG trunnions instead of doing a single servo/torquerod setup. With the wing bolt blocks in the way there wouldn't be a lot of room for that anyway.
I made a mistake in building the wing. I set up the jig so that the rib center lines were all the same height off the board when I should have made the top spar the referrence line. This is because the top of the wing is flat and the bottom taper creates the dihedral. It only took about 1/64" of angle sanding to the wing roots to fix this. I've never built a wing with this type of taper/dihedral before, so I didn't know to plan this.
More pics:
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#13
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I've installed everything but the nose wheel, which I'm having to order. I used two mini servos for the ailerons, two standard ones for elevator and rudder, and a micro for the throttle. Weight with everything but the battery pack, receiver and covering is 32ozs. With approx. 340 sq." area I'm at 13.5 oz wing loading now. I'm guessing around 38 to 40 ozs. finished which gives a 17oz loading. With it small size and light weight it will not be a windy weather flyer. Still, with the fat airfoil and long, long tail moment I'm hoping it won't be terribly squirrelly, either. The engine is an OS FP .15 which will fly a 2 1/2lb plane just fine. It would be nice with a Cox Conquest I bet.
Here are some pics. The next thing to do is final sand and start covering.
Here are some pics. The next thing to do is final sand and start covering.
#15
It doesn't look like it needs a lot of final sanding. Looks good. Your building area looks pretty portable. What were you using for a building surface. It looks like a piece of MFD about 12" X 36"?
#16
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Thanks y'all. We get a lot of mild days this time of year here in NC (will be 58 today, but rainy), so I shouldn't have to wait long to see it in the air.
jpurcha, that's a Great Planes balsa building board and I love it. I always used sheetes of drywall in the past before buying this. Because of my current living situation I'm having to build in a small room on a card table. It's like trying to work in a phone booth sometimes, but it's only temporary.
jpurcha, that's a Great Planes balsa building board and I love it. I always used sheetes of drywall in the past before buying this. Because of my current living situation I'm having to build in a small room on a card table. It's like trying to work in a phone booth sometimes, but it's only temporary.
#17
The old drafting board I carried around for first year engineering was built sometime like it with a balsa core. Now I'm sorry I got rid of it. I could use it now. I need something I can just put away and use from time to time. I have a nice work bench in the garage, but it's 32 degrees in there right now (and it's 18 degrees above normal presently). Basement is getting to comfortable for the kids and wife's sewing room/ computer room.
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Just send me an e-mail with your e-mail address and I will send you a copy. I can only upload picture or text files to this site or I would just post the DXF on this site for dowload
I have attached text files if you just change the file type from .txt to .DXF you should be able to read them that way.
Richard Browning
I have attached text files if you just change the file type from .txt to .DXF you should be able to read them that way.
Richard Browning
ORIGINAL: derferic
Tweedy,
I would also like the Kwik Fly III DXF file. Nice job.
Thanks.
Tweedy,
I would also like the Kwik Fly III DXF file. Nice job.
Thanks.
#22
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I started the covering tonight. I still haven't decided how the final scheme will work out. I like to start with a basic idea and develop it as I go instead of working it all out in advance (it gives me artistic licence ;^P).
I don't think any hobby shop has ever sold out of cream - Worldtex linen in this case - but it's a color I like and it goes with most any darker color. The bottom third or so of the fuse will also be blue. One of my favorite schemes is that of the famous Brett Perigee: http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...07/Jg14090.jpg
So my idea for the fuse will be loosely based on it. There will be lettering of some sort in the light wong panels; maybe "KAOS 42" of something.
I'll post more as I progress.
I don't think any hobby shop has ever sold out of cream - Worldtex linen in this case - but it's a color I like and it goes with most any darker color. The bottom third or so of the fuse will also be blue. One of my favorite schemes is that of the famous Brett Perigee: http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...07/Jg14090.jpg
So my idea for the fuse will be loosely based on it. There will be lettering of some sort in the light wong panels; maybe "KAOS 42" of something.
I'll post more as I progress.
#23
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I finished up the covering tonight. I decided to go ahead and add some lettering to the wings. It livens it up a bit, I think. I made the letters in Photoshop and just printed them out on regular paper. Then I attached the paper to the orange Worldtex with a glue stick and cut out the letters with a #11 blade.
At first I tried attaching the Worldtex to a sheet of paper and printing directly onto the fabric. It went through my inkjet just fine, but the print quality was not very good because of the weave texture; the ink only adhered to the highest surface of the fabric and looked speckled. I wonder if a laser printer would work better. Or, maybe I could sand the fabric smoother, or spray a sealer coat on it first. I'll experiment with this some more.
At first I tried attaching the Worldtex to a sheet of paper and printing directly onto the fabric. It went through my inkjet just fine, but the print quality was not very good because of the weave texture; the ink only adhered to the highest surface of the fabric and looked speckled. I wonder if a laser printer would work better. Or, maybe I could sand the fabric smoother, or spray a sealer coat on it first. I'll experiment with this some more.
#24
Laser printers use high heat to fuse the print on to paper. I think runing the covering material throught it will coat the entrils of the printer ( will be the last print for that one)
Plane looks nice can't wait for the maiden video

Plane looks nice can't wait for the maiden video
#25

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Great job on the graphics! You are pretty darn good with that #11 blade. I’m looking forward seeing it with the landing gear and engine in place. It’s pretty darn cool when you can build what you fly. I always feel more vested in aircraft I build from scratch or plans and all of them have been great flyers too. I have a 10 and 25 size pattern aircraft that I designed and built in the 70s and still enjoy them very much. You can see them at this thread http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3746860/tm.htm


