It's official my Yak is on the way and I plan on doing another build thread like I did with the Ultimate. I think this one will go alot quicker because I am very adapt at building these mono wing ARF aircraft. I spoke with Tom on the phone and we breifly discussed what hardware I should use. I didn't order the Hardware Kit because I already have several of the below items on hand.

FWIW, there is another thread that is already in the process of being written. I plan on adding as much information as I can. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_37..._2/key_/tm.htm

Here is my plan of what I am going to install.

Dubro Heavy Duty Dual Pull-Pull System .91 & Up
Dubro Heavy Duty Control Horn System
Dubro S20 Square Fuel Tank 20 oz.
Dubro Gas Conversion Stopper
Dubro Axle Shaft 3/16x2"
Dubro Dura-Collars 3/16"
Sullivan SkyLite Wheel 3-1/2" Kinda wondering if 3.5" is to big for this plane. When it arrives I can judge it and see.

I will build my own connecting rods from Stock that I already have.

The plane will have a DA 50 for power with a Sullivan exhaust system.
Servos will be as follows:
JR 8611 - Rudder
HiTec 5945MG for all other surfaces.
Throttle and choke will be off the shelf standard servos. TBD
Electrical power will come from Duralights and Fromco.


You can count on lots of photos when I get it going.

If anyone else wants to add information during the build please feel free. I figure there is never enough information to go around.

Hmm Not sure if the plane will balance with a DA50 & a Pull-Pull on the rudder. I would suspect that we would need tail mounted servos for that reason...

Without having the plane here it's hard to be sure. I will be using a 4800mah duralite battery. The battery is pretty heavy and I will be able to mount it in an aft area. Also I can move the ignition battery in and aft too. Guess time will tell. If I have to I can go with dual 5945MGs on the tail.

The wierd thing about the Yak is the low mounted h-stab, leaving little room for servos underneath.

Consequently the rudder servo mounts are above the stab. I think this will look bizarre, so I recommend just moving the batteries back and keep the pull pull setup.

If you use something no heavier than a DA it will not be a problem.

BYW I am finishing up on one with an OS 1.60 glow, no pump, just stock inexpensive stuff. We'll see how it flies.

TF

My current plans are to install a Brison 2.4 in the plane since it will not require cutting into the firewall to install. If that proves insufficient for 3D I have a ZDZ 50 waiting in the wings but my Brison is a very stout engine. It swings a 21X8 Mejzlick very well. Mine will be here tomorrow & I will start on it next week. I can't remember if I ordered the hardware kit or not. I have a small hobby shop worth of the gear in the workshop so I doubt if I did but you never know........

GOT IT! WOO WHOO!

As you can see it came in 2 packages, one with the wings and the other with everything else. The boxes are doubled up for additional UPS(OOPS) protection

The entire plane is well packaged and NOTHING was floating around loose.

I decided to set it up next to my Edge 540 and see what the size difference was like. Notice the size of the ailerons on the YAK comparied to the 540, WOW!
I will be stripping the 540 for all it's hardware, electronics and engine for this project. Say bye to it.[]

They are almost the same size, yet the Yak is fully 2 pounds lighter, maybe more, enough lighter to be practical with an OS 1.60.

TF

I got mine today too! But I would never tear down one bunny to build another.

Some Bunny stop him!

Waiting for Brown to show up with boxes today

UPS just dropped off 2 brown boxes today

Anxiously opened the box & found that the Yak was double boxed & arrived with NO damage. There were no covering wrinkles & everything seems great. As mentioned above Wing Tube/Landing gear are polished. The Wing Tube slid into the wings easily & fits in pretty nicely. The included hardware came neatly labled in plastic pouches. (I hope this is standard & not metric ).

Plane feels real light & looks like will be a blast with the DA50.

Only problem is, I had just finished the 28% ExtraLX & am now debating on workingon this one & flying it instead

Attached are some pics..

Actually, my540 was my first bunny and there are things I do differnet now that I learned on that plane. It flies good but it has been crashed and rebuilt. Besides, I still have a Extra 300LX 28% that flies very nice. It's just time to let it go.

I have a Moki 2.10 for this project, anyone else ?

The Yak wasesigned for either gas or glow, a Moki 2.10 should be excellent.

TF

Tom, Is the incidence on the elevator stabs 0 degree with respect to the fuse hatch (same as in your other planes) ?

Also it seems that the wing anti rotation dowels are kinda small (they sit flush against the fuselage when installed) & there is no place to drill the hole in them to install the cotter pin etc, as detailed in your manual/similar to other WH planes. Any suggestions ?

--Arvind

As faras I know yes, allis 0 degrees.

My suggestion on the a/r dowels is to keep the retaining screw tight.

TF

I checked my incedences and everything was dead solid ZERO. I might just have to rig up something when that time comes.

If you use the nylon thumb screw that comes with the plane you can drill a hole on the top and loop a rubber band through it, then hook the band to something to prevent the screw from coming loose.

T

I started the construction. Since I am waiting for my Hardware to get here I am working on getting the Engine mounted. As you can see in the pictures the upper part of the firewall broke. I did it by misshandling it so be careful! It didn't take much pressure to have it snap.
I always paint my firewalls with 30min epoxy so it's curing now and should be fine. After it dries I will redrill/ream the mount holes and mount the engine. Then I can start on the cowl cut outs.

You can see the DA 50 template I made to make the job a little easier. Tom talks about 2 different methods on mounting I am trying this one. He said it's easier The second vertical line to the right is what you use as a center line marker to get the popper offset.

To clarify, the firewall (motor mount) did not break, that's the F1 former which appears to have folded over.

How did you mishandle it?

Make sure it's attached securely because that's what holds down the front of the hatch.

TF

I simply went to pick up the front part of the plane with it. Not trying to pick up the entire plane just to lift the front and it snapped. Looking at it there is very little wood that holds it to the plane. I am thinking I might place a piece of triangle stock on the front to secure it better. I already have secured it with some 30 min epoxy and it seems much stronger now.
In the picture the only thing keeping it on the plane is a little of the factory glue on that forward part.

Tom,

I noticed that a few of the Robart-style (clones) hinges included with the plane had one side of the barbs broken.

Do u think they are safe to use or shd I get new (Robart) hinges instead? Just want to make sure that the plastic used in the hinges is not brittle & would not break under use after a while etc.

--Arvind

I'm sure the hinges supplied are fine.

TF

Then I am recommending that everyone put a piece of 1/2" balsa triangle stock across the front of F1 where it joins to the top of the motor box and carry that out all the way to the edge of F1.

It's only a few grams of weight and, after looking at the plane, I can see where there might be s atrength issure when handling the plane.

This correction has been added to the "Known Issues" section of the online manual.

TF

These are not broken, they are "trimmed". If you try to install them with the long end in the stab they bottom out. So make sure you install them correct. It apears they are trimmed to keep from drilling into the spar in the stab.