I was concidering the gp rv-4 60 size. But I wanted to go gas with it. I'm concerned about the short run times with the zenoah g20. Has anybody tried a 26cc. Like the SPE 26. Is this too much? I realize someone is running a da50. What does the g20 & spe 26 compare to as for nitro. I don't want to build a rocket. I just want the convenience of gas... Also I don't want it to get too boring as it might for me with an os 91 4c.

I had an OS 91 Surpass II in my RV-4 and it flew it scale but it did get boring. The plane at 10 lbs. is too heavy for this engine. I know it's a scale plane but I've discovered I want to have a little more fun with my RV. I've recently replaced the 91 with a brand new OS FS-120S-E Surpass. The engine fits beautifully inside the cowl with no cutting required for the cylinder. With the fit so nice, I don't know why GP doesn't suggest this engine as the maximum for the RV-4. Because of weather, I haven't been able to fly this combination yet but I hope to within the next couple of weeks.

Skorman-
How did the muffler packaging work out with the 1.20? Anything at all different than with the .91?
Been considering the same thing so any other tips on mounting the 1.20 are appreciated.

The muffler position is the same as the 91 but the tip of the muffler has no ridge like the 91 to keep an exhaust deflector from sliding off. I considered a Pitts muffler or just letting the exhaust hit the fuse underneath but opted instead to swing the muffler out of the side so it's facing down below the right wing and the wheel pant.

Check this out. http://tech.flygsw.org/rv4review.htm
I am going to do the same. I have had a 91 on mine but I am going to gas. So I am going to put my G-23 on it.
The G-20 would be fine, but you would just need to replace the stock ignition with a CH ignition.

I just re-maidened my RV-4 with the OS 120 Surpass and it made a world of difference over the OS 91FS. Lots of vertical and much more aerobatic. I like this plane again.

Hi everyone. I've had my RV-4 for about 6 or 7 months now but haven't been able to work on it. Now I'm finally getting back on it.

I'm going to be using a JR X9303 with the R921 receiver. Has anyone used this setup, and if so, can you post some pictures of your radio installation? I'd like to use a tried and proven installation.

Thanks,
Birman

Got my GP RV-4 ARF ordered today from Tower. I'm going to install my Saito 130TD twin which will fit nicely inside the cowl. This engine was last used on my late GP Cub 60 (tangled with a helicopter- no damage to engine) and is well broken in and reliable. Great thread here. It has inspired me.

Here is my RV-4 OS .91 2c Futaba 14 Mz 2.4 Fasst 111.25 lbs..

OPPS it's a 100 lbs lighter!!!!

...and what a delightful airplane it is, sir! I saw it on the kitbash thread as well. If I wreck mine (God forbid!), I will rebuild using your techniques and scale it after a real example. I must say, however, that I gave up crashing a few years ago. I found it to be too expensive and time-consuming.

I am working on mine. I'm installing the flap servos. On the right wing panel is part of the servo going to hang off of the panel or should I flip it around so that it doesn't. If I do than the opening will be closer to the flap than the panel on the left wing. Manual doesn't do a very go job of explaining that part. I do understand that the servo arm on the right wing points to the wing tip and the left points to the wing root. Thanks for your help.

chopper man

The flap servos are not symmetrical on purpose so you can use a standard Y connector and not a reversing one. You can also opt to plug each flap into its own channel. Great Planes did this to make it easier for people not plugging the flaps into seperate channels.

Use one of these: http://www.keleo-creations.com/Twins/100thumb2.htm

Well, today I officially gave up on my idea to install the Saito 130TD. Mostly it was an exhaust problem - couldn't get one routed to the right spot and the headers I had (stock and keleo) would not allow the engine to fit inside the cowl properly. So, heck with it. I ordered the OS FS91. Looks like an easy installation and Mr. Pettit says its plenty of power for this bird. I'll save the Saito for another day.

BTW, my RV-4 ARF has arrived in top shape and.....wow, it's purdy!

I finnaly found this thread. Had a hard time earlier. Anyway I'm installing the rudder servo and if I install the way the instruction say to, the rudder control rod is about 2 inches to short. I thought about turning the servo around but that doesn't really get me alot of thread to the link and not alot to soder on the other end. Anyone else have this problem and what did you do. I guess I could order some 48 inch rods. Thanks for you help.

chopper

I took a piece of 1/8" brass tubing about 1 1/2" long and put a slit along one side with a Dremel. I then sanded the end of the 4-40 rod and another short section of 4-40 rod and pushed them into the brass tubing. I then soldered them with Stay Bright silver solder. Works fine.

Birman

I may be wrong but as I recall all the rods were not the same length. Make sure you are using one with the correct length for that location - otherwise, spend the $3 and buy a rod at the LHS.

I'm almost sure I used a longer rod for the elevator, so I called Great Planes and they sent me out a complete pushrod package and they are all the same length. That's just the kind of luck I have. Went to LHS and it doesn't carry anything longer than a 30 inch rod. Just placed an order with TH for the 48 inch rods. It's just as well I need some other stuff for my TF Piper Arrow that I have almost complete after 2 years.

chopper

I discovered I have the same problem; all rods are 36" and the rudder rod is too short. My LHS doesn't carry didley squat let alone longer 4-40's. Guess I'll use Birman's method for lengthing what I have.[&o]

hey guys, got a question. This may have been already covered but just don't feel like going all the way through the thread! Has anyone had a problem with the covering on this plane?

I got one last october as somthing to tinker with over the winter. I ran the engine for the first time and the black stripe on the fuse seperated and came off![:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@][:@] upon further investigation I've discoverd that the RV is covered with Econokote or towerkote, or at least somekind of cheap knock off, because the color does'nt match planes that I know are covered with real monokote becuase I did it![:@][:@][:@]

I am going to contact GP as soon as possable, but if they all are like this I'm going to want my 280 bucks back not another plane!

Here are the pics I took,

Yeah, the black on mine started doing the same thing but before I had an engine installed. I ironed it back down and am hoping for the best.

Birman

All you have to do is turn rudder servo around and the push rod works fine.

BIPEGUY -
Yep - had the exact same problem with mine. As have many others.

There have been several threads on this subject that abruptly ended - in fact, another subscriber to this thread told me privately that he had been warned to drop the subject or he would be banned if he ever mentioned Monocote again.
GP pressure we assume.

It appears GP was marketing this plane as covered with Monocote when it really was not! At one point the GP rep the subscribes to this thread said they had people going to the factory and would be investigating but they never posted a response or offered any means to resolve the probelm. Apparently they just hope it will go away.

The directions manual and the box as well I believe that my RV-4 came in indicate it is Monocote but it apparently is something cheaper. Mine is completely built so I don't have many options. You'd think GP would at least offer all buyers some settlement for the mis-leading information.

Ken,
That person you mentioned with the M******* issues would be me. I will never by anoher plane from **, and since have bought an Aeroworks plane and another H9 plane. At least they are c****** in what they advertise.