I recently resurrected my Falcon 56 model from the early 1970's. 1973 I think. I had to soak the engine in alcohol to dissolve all the old Castor oil. Even with all that soaking I needed to use my heat gun on the carburetor to loosen it up.

For fuel I've added Castor to a 5% nitro mix to get 20% lubrication. Some of that is synthetic oil of course.

The engine runs, starts easy but loads up at low throttle and after a short while at low throttle / idle, and it won't throttle up quickly without quiting.

Some observations... It runs better without using the pressure port on the muffler. (The muffler is a newer Enya muffler to meet the club noise standards. The original Semco flow through muffler didn't have a pressure port.) When it was on the pressure port it seemed to drip a lot of fuel off of the bottom of the engine. I assume that this is fuel coming out the front crankshaft sleeve bearing. The leakage is way down without the pressure port.

At this point I am thinking I should try a 10% or 15% nitro mix. Any thoughts about the use of synthetic oil on this engine? The glow plug is original equipment and the engine has not seen more than 3 or 4 gallons of fuel in its lifetime.

By the way that 30 year old Monocote is quite brittle. I'll have to re-cover it by the end of the season.

Any ideas???

Thanks
Mike

you are too rich at idle open the air bleed screw a little 1/8th turn at a time.also are you using an idle bar plug.Is the plug new or 34 years old?

The glow plug has an idle bar. It is old in years only not in hours of use.

Mike

The Enya's ran poorly when new back then, OS was just becoming popular and few people put up with the Enya's.

This one always ran well. I don't know about the problems you mention.

Mike

----------------


Back then, the OS .35 ran poor when new too. Remember the green pistons they used that had to grow from the heat of running in? My wife's .35S R/C used to smoke after a flight, even when set rich. That's back before I knew anything about breaking-in model engines. It survived without egging out the connecting rod, somehow. Divine intervention, I suspect. It turned out to be a great engine, but it took a bunch of flights to break-in.

Both the Enya and OS .35 engines were worth the wait, though.

I miss my Falcon 56 models. The wife and I had a bunch of them in three and four-channel variations. Her best one, according to her, was her three channel version that was powered by a Fox .25 bushing engine. Had to hand launch it though, not quite enough power to ROG off our short, rough grass field. Once airborne, it was a really great flier, like all Falcons were.

Pull that engine off the plane and mount it up on the bench with a jug of all castor oil fuel and just let it run slobbery rich for a while.

By the way, that is the best use of transparent orange Monokote I've seen to date. Nice color scheme.


Ed Cregger

I flew c/l in the mid/late sixties had an enya 36[not a typo] on a magician 35,It was a nice running stunt engine.after breaking in fox 36 x and a stallion 35 plus mccoy 35's I found the os and enya line very easy to start.I bought an os 35 r/c for my trainer a goldberg falcon 56 in the fall of 70 eventually replaced it with an os h40p for acrobatics as I progressed.ended up carrying the 35 as a spare in slow combat and ended up with a 2nd place trophy with it on a flightstreak and a ss6 rc fuel tank.the extra points for flight time back then with the 6 oz tank really helped.

My first R/C airplane was a Falcon 56 with an Enya .29 IV/TV
I think aerowolf hit on it...
It sounds like you need to open the air bleed screw some...it's not very sensitive, so open 'er up some and try it...and keep playing with it until you get it where you want. My Enya .29 took quite a while to break in too...and FWIW, glow plugs take a beating during break-in because the wear particles can contaminate the plugs fillament and cause erratic running so it might not be a bad idea to try another plug just for the heck of it?

IIRC I had a 6 oz. tank in my Falcon...and isn't the tank a little on the low side in the Falcon? (don't remember exactly)

I had the battery under mine to raise it up to the proper level and had an 8 oz tank after installing the 40.but the 1/8 ply breakaway plate that the engine is mounted on did make for a low tank position.

I've a 4 ounce tank, I remember getting 6 to 10 minute flights with it. I mounted the engine head rotated at a 45 from vertical to lower the carb with respect to the tank.

I unscrewed the idle bleed air screw and checked for a plugged bleed hole. It was not plugged. I'll put a new glow plug in it before the weekend.

I'm using a Master-Airscrew 10-6 prop. What are the chances the new 10-6's take a bigger bite than the old Topflites????


Mike

You are on the right track. Definately replace the glowplug. The element in it may have been contaminated during the long storage period. Also open the airbleed. The new muffler may be creating more back pressure.
The new props should be about the same load on the engine. They will provide greater thrust than the old TF's which produced less thrust and more noise in some tests I made a few years ago.
BTW the way, I was the design consultant and test pilot for the original CG Falcons.
Good Luck and Enjoy

John W
Scottsdale, Az

Thanks for the feedback.

It sure is a wonderful airplane. We have flown it twice since it has been resurrected and it still handles well. You can't tell from the picture but the only thing original on this Falcon is the wing, the engine and the rudder. Everything else is a replacement. It is on its third set of servos. It started with 4 Heathkit KPS-9's. It was quite a task getting that KPS-9 in the wing laterally so the rack output could run the ailerons. After the first major crash (a new stabilizer) I switch the ailerons to a Heathkit KPS-12. After the second major crash and a new fuselage, all the servos were Heathkit KPS-12's. Heathkit got a lot of business from me (all funded by my paper route) and my soldering iron was very busy. Now it has modern Futaba servos. Since no one makes the old style single servo aileron servo trays, I had to use double sticky tape with a safety wire to hold the aileron servo in place.

Furthermore... I built the replacement fuselage out of 1/8 inch foam board, the type with a brown kraft paper on both sides. I can't find this stuff any more. I can only find the foam board with the glossy white paper. I don't think the white stuff is as strong. The fuselage is painted with white epoxy (Hobbypoxy?) paint.

Mike

One point about air bleed carbs that have been sitting around too long. Some castor may have solidified in the air passage where the air bleed needle is located. If opening the air bleed screw dosen't make any difference take a pin or piece of piano wire and push it through the air hole (phew) to clean out the old oil.
Peter

I have a couple dozen Enya engines. They are a superior product in my estimation. They are hand lapped and assembled (most). If you need parts, MRC Altech in NJ has most of them even for the oldies.

Make sure the air bleed hole is clear. They do take a long time to run in but this is because with proper use they last nearly forever. I would use as much castor as is practical. I fly C/L and R/C with the Enya's. .11CX up to the .50CX for small RC. I have 9 Model 5224 and 5225 .35's and and a couple .29's. The .15's and .19's are excellent sport engines as well. I fly Fox .35,s .36X and .59's as well and swear by them as I do the Enya and OS. I wouldn't own an RC Fox engine. Right or wrong they aren't worth the hassle for RC. Just my opinion. Maybe they are a well kept secret. Clarence Lee always rode Duke Fox about Fox carbs. I use OS Max and FP engines in the .10 to .60 range for C/L and R/C as well and they great but no better than the Enya for power and reliablity. Some guys like the OS LA engines. Anyone know why?? other than one lean run and you get to buy a new one. I run Saito and OS four strokes, HP 60 Gold Cup and 1.50 Irvines for bigger 2 stoke glow needs. Zenoah singles and 3W twins round out the big stuff.

I suppose I got carried away but I have Enya and OS engines that have served me well for 35+ years. I just keep them clean and lubricated, don't lean them out, use castor where needed and have never experienced any of the problems that would make an expert out of me.

A friend recently gave back a Ringmaster with a .19 Enya that I had built for him over 30 years ago. He maybe ran it twice. The Enya was ginked solid with castor. I soaked it in denatured alcohol from the stove in the sailboat. I slowly worked the engine free. It took a few days. I took the front off and disassembled eveything but the pison sleeve as not to disturb the set. It runs perfect. Castor provides long term protection in the event an engine is neglected.

Good Luck, Art

Hi all,

Thanks for the responses... Engine is now running much better. I cleaned out the idle bleed with a pipe cleaner, changed the glow plug and am using 10% nitro with 20% Castor/synthetic. I've been doing a bit more reading and it seems that 25% castor may be a better mix.

Anyway the engine is running at near top performance. Now I can focus on flying the airplane instead of keeping the engine running.

Thanks again
Mike