I made my own Test Stand and its not very good, i was hoping for anyone to show me these so i can get an idea to make a new one.

that stand would work but, be sure to reinforce the firewall portion of the stand. Ive built something similar and after the first run it was about to rip off. I even used wood screws and gorilla glue, and it still started to break itself free

Looks good guy! I need to build one also for a OS120 4C. If you use the stand very often, the wood will soak up fuel exhaust and things start to come appart. I suggest a couple coats of paint on that puppy.
What SERVOS are you using for control surfaces on the stool?

That servo is a JR nes-577, the stand is OK i just thought i could do better like make it so i can move the mounts side ways so i can fit bigger and smaller engines. i used only wood screws to hold the firewall in place.

Yea, i might keep it and paint it, but i would still like to see others so if i ever need a new one. Its got a ASP 70 on it at the moment. Its easy to run it in on the stand than it is in a plane.

A couple of pieces of angle iron and four legs welded together. A purchased engine mount. screwed on top. the legs dig into the ground. Takes .049 to 1.2 four stroke. Real simple, Had it for years.

Ed S

I've got a 1x6 screwed to a wooden saw horse, the legs are braced and it has several Jtec engine mounts screwed to it, though I use primarely a plate metal mount of unknown origin on one side. Instead of a radio system, I use a simple pushrod that is rubberbanded to the fuel tank which sits a little higher than carb level due to the 2x4 block that is screwed to the 1x6. All basic cabbaging really. I've used it for over 10 years and the only problems I've had with it come with engines bigger than a 60 which will start moving the sawhorse, till I put a cinder block on the bracing, then all is well again.

Anyways, it's nice to break in an engine and get familiar with it without having to put wear and tear on an airframe.

I put mine in a vice, which it holds it tight. I just had a brocken aerial on my reciever and a spare servo, this idea is good so i can controll the revs in a safe distance with my Transmitter.

corby - Looks to me that at a minimum you need to have triangle stock between the vertical and horizontal parts of the firewall/base. Without this reinforcement you are likely to have the engine pull the firewall forward until the engine pulls it off entirely. Properly sized wood screws would be sufficient to hold everything together.

Good job on the stand. That should work great for you. Mine is similar except I have a hole in the back/bottom part and I can put a piece of rebar into it and pound it into the ground. Works great for me. Yours looks plenty stout.

Of course everybody has their preference. The stand I have will go into the trunk of my car and I can take it anywhere. Using cement blocks and/or screwing the stand to chairs or benches limits the use somewhat.

Ed S

In the past, I would use an engine mount bolted to a 2x4 similar to first picture. I don't like to drill holes in my mount until it is going on a plane. Now I cut a slot in 1x scrap lumber or ply to accept a paticular engine. Use rubber bands to hold tank down, run throttle control through screw eyelet. Cheap and easy.

I would highly recomend that you not do this. Its not safe and can damage your engine. With the pressure of the vice you can easily damage the crankase.

Worst case scenario if the engine is not seated correctly and just feels tight in the vice it could vibrate loose and then you would really have a mess.

The engine really needs to be bolted down to something.



As far as a homemade test stand I have always thought about building a solid stand and then making plastic cutting board engine mounts like on a SPAD. On the back of each mount you could make the same bolt pattern so all you would have to do is bolt the mount to the stand. That way you can change motor mounts and always have the same bolt mount pattern on your stand.

Mine is a folding sawhorse with a commercial mount bolted to one end with the engine thrust line parallel to the long axis of the saw horse. There are cross braces which fit across the legs when the stand is assembled. I slip a concrete block over the back cross brace.

Thats true but if it ever came loose i could simply bring the throttle back and cut the engine. When it does happen though, i will find a better way to hold it down.

So you will simply throttle back on an engine that is just flopping around only being held in by the throttle cable and the fuel lines?

I don't think you will have to worry too much about throttling back as it will probably cut the fuel line loose and jump forward before you even get a chance to react to it.

Sounds like a good way to ruin an engine to me.

I dont think thats a best practice. I think you would be better of using your engine stand that you pictured in the first post.

Not trying to criticise but I am just warning you of something that can be dangerous to you personally and damage your engine.

Hi………… It seems everyone’s idea of a test stand has the engine mounted firmly on a rigid plank or similar. I’ve done that …..but the ultimate stand that I have in my head, would be capable of doing loops and rolls, just like a plane does. Like I said it is still in the design stage but I have a plan in the works, that may some day take shape…..bert

Built this one that can be clamped to WorkMate or picnic bench... light, cheap, small... My kind of stand...

Cheers!

im saying when the whole thing comes loose out of the vice, not the engine coming loose on the mount, the servo, engine and mount are all on the one peice.

You can not go wrong purchasing this engine stand [link]http://www.pspmfg.com/EngineTestStand.html[/link]. I am a tight wad and I can honestly say that I am glad I spent the money. I have built several engine stands that worked OK but never to the level of this engine stand. If your only going to own one size engine then I would recommend a purpose built stand, if not then this one should serve you well.

Thats a nice stand

That looks identical to mine.

I added a "keel", a block of wood that affixes to the underside very securly, which I merely clamp into the Workmate's built in divided center.

I use a two pieces of 3/4" finish ply held at right angles with some corner brackets from Lowes. Used 10/32 bolts and nylock nuts to hold it all together. This way, I can swith out the vertical "firewall" piece for ones with holes to accomodate different engine mounts. Plenty solid. When I want to use it, I bolt it to the top of a good sized Kobalt toolbox that I use for a flight box. Bent up a few small pieces of sheet metal for throttle servo / ignition unit brackets. The battery and all the other junk inside is plenty of weight to keep my Evolution 35 from moving it around. Sorry no pics, can't find my camera.

-J

Here is a stand I whipped up for up to .60 size engines. Its assembled with treated 1x4 sraps and deck screws. The fuel tank can be raised and lowered to investigate tank height sensitivity for different installations. I should have sprayed it down with spar urethane. I am planning to build one for up to 50cc gas engines next!