firebird78

Ok yall...I have noticed there are some people that get nervous about recieving their first nitro, or didnt have much luck with a previous one and dont wanna mess up their new one..lol...im not an expert by far but here are some tips that I have learned from people smarter then me (yall know who you are..lol) and some I learned from my own experience (some of which I should have learned from the previously mentioned but evidently decided to do it the hard and expensive way..lol).
first off we know to make sure all the screws are tight that a going into plastic...and to locktite all the screws going into metal and make sure they are tight as well..check to make sure your wheels are tight and while your at it you just might want to check your carb to make sure the needles are set to properly break in your engine.. not all times are the needles set to were your engine will actually start and stay running. I've added a picture of proper adjustment that I borrowed from Wade....I hope he doesnt mind lol. you can set your high speed needle and your low speed needle while the radio gear is turned off...to set your idle the radio gear needs to be on. Also check your fuel lines for holes and make sure they are tight were connected to the engine pipe and tank
While you have the radio turned on setting your idle, do a radio check to make sure your radio gear works properly, as sometimes the channels are reversed or the trim needs to be adjust...
it is VERY IMPORTANT to remove the glow plug and put the piston at bdc (bottom dead center).. and use a permanent marker to mark your flywheel under the car so you can put your piston at bdc ASAP after the engine has ran and to be stored. I do this by sticking a zip tie down into the cylinder and gently rotating the flywheel until the piston is at bdc. for break in Especially a big block gently tighten the glow plug and then just crack it loose a bit...this will make it a whole lot easier to start
After you have done this your pretty much ready to break ur new baby in...Im not opening the can of worms of which break method to use.. Im not claiming this is full proof.. you may still have problems and it can be frustrating...but once you get the hang of it this hobby is very fun as well as addicting.
Oh by the way...my reason for this thread is not only to help people out..but out of 6 engines I broke in so far only 3 of them were adjusted to wear the engine would actually run and idle....so dont always assume your new nitro engine is set to factory settings..

Cam_132

Good words man Thanks, and hopefully it will help newbies!

hrdcoreglf

Good advice. I have one thing to add, when setting your idle do not use the trim on your transmitter. When you hit your breaks it will close the carb throat and stall the engine. Use the idle adjusment screw. When checking the opening in the carb throat you should do it with your transmitter on and at full break.

Redharris

Just to Add to what hrdcoreglf said......

Your Idle Adjustment should Not change when you actuate your Brakes......

Put Another Way.......
When your car is Idleing nicely in the middle of your Driveway, and you hit the brakes Full On, the Idle should not change by even One Single RPM.
If it Does...? You need to adjust the Carb Linkage and/or Idle screw.....

firebird78

thanks guys..any input to this thread just improves it...I did forget to mention a few things that I guess I took fer granted people would know...its a good idea to put an inline fuel filter on your rc..granted there is a filter inside the tank, but a inline is added security...It is very important to put a failsafe on your rc aswell..you attach the failsafe to the thottle servo then plug the other end to the reciever..you want to adjust it to were with your transmitter on and reciever on it rolls freely...turn off the transmitter and it applies the brakes..some also apply the brakes when the reciever power source is weak...this helps to keep your rc running off on you..another tip is to use reciever hump pack cells...not only are these a bang for the buck (rechargable)..they are also better for jumping or bashing...the reason I say this is if AA battery gets loose in the reciever battery holder your failsafe doesnt help...if your rc is at wide open throttle when this happens thats were it going to stay...reciever hump packs are harder to jar to were your not getting good connection...but if you do run AA batteries I would suggest wrapping a rubber band around them to keep them in their holder

firebird78

some stuff you will need to run a nitro...

starter kit.....this will come with a fuel bottle, some wrenches, screwdrivers, glow plug ignitor and charger
inline fuel filter....good idea to run...the rxt-1 and rxb-1 come stock with inline fuel filter
air filter oil...tacky oil that collects dust etc. so it doesnt enter your engine
after run oil.....after running your engine this helps keep it from "gumming up".. keeps everything lubed
temp gun....great for tuning and making sure your not running to hot or cold ( both are bad on a nitro engine)
failsafe... as mentioned in previous post on this thread...helps keep your car from "running off" on you
throttle return spring... (optional but nice) another device to help keep your car from "running off" on you


I'm sure I forgot something so feel free to add....lol